nkila220
ArboristSite Operative
Well that's good to know!
And I used a flathead screwdriver
372 xP x-torq tuning
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And I used a flathead screwdriver
nkila220
ArboristSite Operative
I'll make a video later tonight if it's still light out when I get home!
nkila220
ArboristSite Operative
Is this spline tool you are referring to bypass the limiter rings somehow? Because there is a screwdriver slot right there but ive been reading that the ring around the outside of the needle is actually the limiter? So is that tool you are talking about, something that can bypass the limiter? Im getting pretty confused right now. lol. Thanks all you guys for putting up with my dumb questions.
I just dealt with those stupid limiters. They are soft metal and break off really easy by prying them with a flathead screwdriver. Break em off! Then you will be able to adjust your carb properly with only a flat screwdriver. You only need to use a spline tool with the home owner/consumer saws, not a pro saw like a 372. And no worries man, a forum is meant for lots of questions! 
nkila220
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks man! Appreciate the positive attitudeI just dealt with those stupid limiters. They are soft metal and break off really easy by prying them with a flathead screwdriver. Break em off! Then you will be able to adjust your carb properly with only a flat screwdriver. You only need to use a spline tool with the home owner/consumer saws, not a pro saw like a 372. And no worries man, a forum is meant for lots of questions!
So how exactly do you get in there to pry them out?? do i need to tale the jets out of the carb??
nkila220
ArboristSite Operative
*takeThanks man! Appreciate the positive attitude
So how exactly do you get in there to pry them out?? do i need to tale the jets out of the carb??
First you're gonna want to remove your carb so you can properly get at the limiters. Then you'll notice that the limiters have a small edge to them that is easily gripped by the screwdriver. Pry each one up until you can grab it with some needle nose pliers. I wouldn't pry too hard because you don't want to break the screws in any way, but if you keep lightly prying then eventually the limiter will break or fall out. Patience is key or you will break something for sure. Then make sure your carb is clean before putting it back together
nkila220
ArboristSite Operative
Well looks like this brand new saw is going to turn into an $800 science project. Haha. Btw here is a better picture of the plug. Why is one side darker then the other?
because of burn pattern in combustion chamber and incoming fuel washing one side of the plug...not that im into reading plugs but that looks ok
nkila220
ArboristSite Operative
Ah makes sense! Thanks!
So you think this is running rich enough??
IyaMan
Addicted to ArboristSite
nkila, I'm following this thread with interest as I am also considering to buy a 372 (or 576) very soon. And I totally understand your desire to getting running well and keeping it maintained.
But (I am not criticizing, mind you) I just want to ask those giving tips here, is concerning oneself with so much from the get-go normal and/or expected? I just wonder if inspecting the plug and already removing limiters by way of carb removal on a saw that has probably only run a couple tanks (at most) is standard procedure? Also, does removing the limiters affect the warranty? I mean, do all owners of new saws need go through this? Or if they don't do so are they being unwise?
As I said, I'm not looking to criticize, I just want to know what's the best way to go. And again nkila, I want to see you get your saw running good, but is it possible you are over-worrying?
But (I am not criticizing, mind you) I just want to ask those giving tips here, is concerning oneself with so much from the get-go normal and/or expected? I just wonder if inspecting the plug and already removing limiters by way of carb removal on a saw that has probably only run a couple tanks (at most) is standard procedure? Also, does removing the limiters affect the warranty? I mean, do all owners of new saws need go through this? Or if they don't do so are they being unwise?
As I said, I'm not looking to criticize, I just want to know what's the best way to go. And again nkila, I want to see you get your saw running good, but is it possible you are over-worrying?
Yes it looks good. Clearly pro saws come with limiters so not sure what that ment but I just usually trim the limiters but the 372xt it seems to be pretty happy where I leave it so I don't know what else to tell ya?! Keep tuning and I would leave it where you have it for now, run a few more tanks of 40:1 through it then pull the plug and see. If you haven't switch fuel now to 40:1 and don't waste all this tuning time. Just my .02
Derf
Addicted to ArboristSite
The limiters are there by design from the EPA, to prevent excessive emissions while running rich. But- they also prevent the user from tuning the saw too lean and scoring the piston.
They can be defeated with a small exacto knife. Doing so will allow greater range of tuning but 99% or people on here do that AFTER they have made a modification such as hogging out the muffler opening, or doing port work to the cylinder. These mods often require running more fuel to match the increased air flow.
The OP is looking to add more fuel because he's likely a keyboard ninja who has spent too much time reading stories about the 372xp x-torq and that it is set to run lean from the factory and is worried it will shorten the life of his saw if he runs it as is. This worry and effort isn't the norm. You can't even read a plug with 15 minutes on it.
My advice is use the saw- if you have problems that the dealer can't help you with post them, otherwise enjoy your new purchase.
They can be defeated with a small exacto knife. Doing so will allow greater range of tuning but 99% or people on here do that AFTER they have made a modification such as hogging out the muffler opening, or doing port work to the cylinder. These mods often require running more fuel to match the increased air flow.
The OP is looking to add more fuel because he's likely a keyboard ninja who has spent too much time reading stories about the 372xp x-torq and that it is set to run lean from the factory and is worried it will shorten the life of his saw if he runs it as is. This worry and effort isn't the norm. You can't even read a plug with 15 minutes on it.
My advice is use the saw- if you have problems that the dealer can't help you with post them, otherwise enjoy your new purchase.
^This sounds wise. If your saw is brand new then you should have warranty for a while. Taking the limiters off won't hurt if you don't mess with the screws too much, but for the most part just get the saw broken in and then fiddle with the carb. I wouldn't worry about your plug. Don't get me wrong, I love helping out, so if you have any more questions don't be scared to ask, but for now you don't sweat it. You could still post a video just for fun!
nkila220
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks man! I appreciate it! You guys have helped me feel alot better!
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nkila220
ArboristSite Operative
Your totally right. Ive been reading way too much internet B.S. and getting paranoid. You guys have helped me feel alot better and made me able to enjoy my new saw now! Ill have to get a video next chance i get to cut some wood.
nkila220
ArboristSite Operative
Yea as soon as i use these few cans of husky pre-mixed fuel ( i got them for the double warrenty) then my normal mix for everything( saws, backpack blower, string trimmer, etc) will be 91 octane ethanol free gas and stihl ultra closer to 40:1
nkila220
ArboristSite Operative
Honestly as the others have made me realize, its just me being paranoid from reading too much internet B.S. The 372xp is a very nice saw and has been around for a while, plus a bit lighter, hence why i got it. The 576 looks nice too, especially with autotune. I like how you have the option to get the 576 with or without autotune. I was considering the 576 too, but the weight is a bit more. it is a bigger feeling saw too. But i hear it is amazingly smooth. So i would say either one is a good choice!
IyaMan
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yeah, I'm still deliberating on the 576. Interesting to hear how much more nimble you feel the 372 is. However I'm not much of a saw repair master and don't want to deal with carb adjustment too much. Weather here can go from super-humid to dry, super cold to hot, and I'll be cutting anywhere between 1500' and 3500' elevation... so the AT sounds pretty nice for that. I'd love to learn more on chainsaw carb adjustment (and there's only one way to do so...), but dealer support is almost non-existent since I'm in the middle of nowhere, so having it self tune would make life much easier probably.
My only concern is that I'm considering some softwood milling (less than 14") and I don't want any AT problems. Opinions are a bit mixed on this, though if I don't overdo it, I think the AT should be fine.
Would love to see a vid. Enjoy the saw and us posted!
My only concern is that I'm considering some softwood milling (less than 14") and I don't want any AT problems. Opinions are a bit mixed on this, though if I don't overdo it, I think the AT should be fine.
Would love to see a vid. Enjoy the saw and us posted!
U&A
Addicted to ArboristSite
I assume this Is this something that only happens because of the auto tune? im just curious because I have a new 562XP. Also I am a little confused about the rev-limiter thing. how do you know if you hitting the limiter vs the saw 4 stroking at WOT.
