sounds good.....and expensive!
372xp oiler o-ring location?
- Thread starter Roanoker494
- Start date
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you guys are going to like my vid on this topic 
Matt, just watched your vid on the on the little o ring on the 372, I just put the cyl. & piston on the 365 but I have to make a block to seal the ex cuz the muffler & sheild are not enough to hold the seal on the ex, so I don't even know if it leaks at the clutch side yet.
But I can't get that sleeve off the crank, even with a plier, have you ever had one that tight?, tomorrow if I find a leak there I will try heating it with electric soldering gun.
John
But I can't get that sleeve off the crank, even with a plier, have you ever had one that tight?, tomorrow if I find a leak there I will try heating it with electric soldering gun.
John
I have never had one on that tight but I would assume that putting some wd40 or PB Blaster on it work or at least help
D
Deleted member 117362
Guest
Did anyone tell you it would work? Always a smart --- in the group. Glad it worked for you. The o-ring.
decableguy2000
ArboristSite Guru
I'll add my 2 cents on this topic. I found it was easier to get the oring installed before the seal, and make sure it is seated against the bearing, used a Popsicle stick. Also i you need one you better order 2 just in case.
Also for reference the oring is one the crankshaft diagram in the IPl
Jeremy
Also for reference the oring is one the crankshaft diagram in the IPl
Jeremy
idiotwithasaw
another row to hoe
Good video man. I've been wondering if I could vac test it with the clutch off. Always afraid the loose bushing would shoot across the shop. Lol.
I'm glad it worked too just wish I knew about this part sooner
idiotwithasaw
another row to hoe
I also usually put the oring on before the seal. But nothing wrong with the way u did it
I now have 14 of these o rings so yes by at least two
idiotwithasaw
another row to hoe
I have actually split cases before and the bearing stays in the case but the o ring will still be on the crank
Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
i never use this o ring. it's just ****'n retarded. so the seal presses in the case and then the seal seals on the crank. i call that sealed up 
only ones i ever had leak were some of the ones with the drilled through crank. i don't know why husky did this but i think it was a way to get lube to the drum bearing from the engine rather then lubed through the crank end with grease. the 3120 was the same way. i am no fan of it and have welded a few of the holes shut in the past.
only ones i ever had leak were some of the ones with the drilled through crank. i don't know why husky did this but i think it was a way to get lube to the drum bearing from the engine rather then lubed through the crank end with grease. the 3120 was the same way. i am no fan of it and have welded a few of the holes shut in the past.
Based on my video I just took...I'm agreeing with you that this is retarded
But I'm gonna use this ring on every future build....
But I'm gonna use this ring on every future build....
Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
whatever you need to do. my only point is i have ran them without them and properly tuned without it does not seem to hurt them at all. those tiny little delicate orings break and fall apart anyways which is why i don't use them. most run down saw you get for rebuild will likely have lost that oring a long time ago anyways which is why you probably never noticed them. hard to notice when they aren't there to begin with lol
exactly why I missed them in the first place
but... why bother doing a pressure test if you know you are going to have a leak..... everyone keeps giving me crap over not doing pressure tests on rebuilds, seems like there is an automatic, if small, leak here if you don't use the o-ring, and if you do use it, it leaks eventually anyway because the ring degrades? this whole this is stupid and makes no sense
but... why bother doing a pressure test if you know you are going to have a leak..... everyone keeps giving me crap over not doing pressure tests on rebuilds, seems like there is an automatic, if small, leak here if you don't use the o-ring, and if you do use it, it leaks eventually anyway because the ring degrades? this whole this is stupid and makes no sense
Well I finally got that bushing off the crankshaft, I had PB blaster on it for about 30 hrs. I tried to heat it without much success, finally I put the rope in the plug hole and gave the bushing a twist with a very small channellock and it came loose.
There was a brown hard substance between it and the shaft. It's easy to see why one could miss seeing the O ring, it was a black mashed substance in the corner of the bearing and the shaft, if I had not been reading this thread I would not have known it was the remains of an O ring.
There was a brown hard substance between it and the shaft. It's easy to see why one could miss seeing the O ring, it was a black mashed substance in the corner of the bearing and the shaft, if I had not been reading this thread I would not have known it was the remains of an O ring.
Nice....that rust was probably the sealant
idiotwithasaw
another row to hoe
Hope you replaced the seal too
Yeah, the seal is the reason I'm working on it, that's where it leaks.
I'v got a new seal but I'm waiting for the O ring and a new bushing, the old bushing is all chewed up from the pliers.
I ordered new ones last week when I ordered 2 346ne p&c for the new price.
John
Yeah, the seal is the reason I'm working on it, that's where it leaks.
I'v got a new seal but I'm waiting for the O ring and a new bushing, the old bushing is all chewed up from the pliers.
I ordered new ones last week when I ordered 2 346ne p&c for the new price.
John
For future reference a piece of leather or rubber between your pliers and the item you are wrenching on works great at preventing it from getting "chewed"
