550XP, new A-12 carb? Where to get one, how to match coil?

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CenterTree

Firewood hacker
Joined
Oct 7, 2011
Messages
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Location
PA
Saw is a 2014 550XP. I think it has the A1 carb. I need a source for the newest A12 carb (which I can get at Bailey's), but I would need to have it matched to my coil. (Bailey's is not able to do that). My dealer is incompetent and also not an option. A 2nd dealer is 25 miles away.

Anyone here who can ship me a brand new A12 that is already programmed to my coil if I provide the info?
I hope to be able to try and revive this Husky blunder before I drop big bucks on a new Mark 2.

Thanks!
 
Saw is a 2014 550XP. I think it has the A1 carb. I need a source for the newest A12 carb (which I can get at Bailey's), but I would need to have it matched to my coil. (Bailey's is not able to do that). My dealer is incompetent and also not an option. A 2nd dealer is 25 miles away.

Anyone here who can ship me a brand new A12 that is already programmed to my coil if I provide the info?
I hope to be able to try and revive this Husky blunder before I drop big bucks on a new Mark 2.

Thanks!
Is the saw not running now or just has some issues? Have you tried the updated fuel lines and heat shield?
 
Thanks, I did not know that. Do dealers charge for that or is it just considered customer service?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Every one sees it differently. My guy is a saw guy, we barter and try each other's builds all the time. He'd prolly let me run the computer for my updates if I asked him. I'm lucky though, some places charge the "minimum 1/2 hour labor" at shop rate. There is no standard.
 
Any dealer worth anything will program a new carb no charge, it takes like 30 seconds. Being tethered to dealerships is BS, but is long as they can get away with it they will. A downloadable app and USB type cable would be so logical and simple it may never happen lol.
 
There have been at least two members here that have claimed to have bought a new carb and just popped it in and it worked. I recall this from the last few months here in this forum.
It would be worth while to search and see what you find about; 550xp carb

I have the newest carb and my saw still runs like sh*t so is it really worth your time lol
 
If you have the latest updates a way around reprogramming is to just trade the old electronics to the new carb.....3 screws and gasket. I've done this several times with good success. You'll have a fresh unprogrammed module for lter if needed.
 
If you have the latest updates a way around reprogramming is to just trade the old electronics to the new carb.....3 screws and gasket. I've done this several times with good success. You'll have a fresh unprogrammed module for lter if needed.
So are you confirming that carb swapping with the electronic module doesn’t need to be flashed to the ecu in the coil when changed?


I’ve been doing some thinking lately. I’m not gonna give up on my 550 just yet. I think I’m gonna get it updated and rebooted Saturday and see how she runs. If it’s still a bunch of bs to get it started and warmed up maybe I have an air leak in the cases. I redid the top end with sealant a little while ago, but never did an air test.
I’ll probably also get rid of the pipe I brazed on the muffler and just order a stock clone which is better for flow than the std husky one. Bring it back to original and if it still is no good, try and sell it.
 
If the carb has been programmed it may or may not work with different coils. However a new carb is not programmed at the factory and will never work correctly with any saw until programmed. Swapping the module is an option, but you're running the risk that it may have been part of the original problem.

A pressure/vac test is definitely in order, these saws are known to have factory installed air leaks.
 
The ones I’ve done worked fine. Issues were with carb and not electronics. Electronics on old carb and coil are already paired so swapping electronics to a new carb seemed like a solution to initially avoid a Dealer visit...... if it works (which they all have so far) a step can be illuminated.
 
If the carb has been programmed it may or may not work with different coils. However a new carb is not programmed at the factory and will never work correctly with any saw until programmed. Swapping the module is an option, but you're running the risk that it may have been part of the original problem.

A pressure/vac test is definitely in order, these saws are known to have factory installed air leaks.
Way to go Husky. :nofunny:
 
There have been at least two members here that have claimed to have bought a new carb and just popped it in and it worked. I recall this from the last few months here in this forum.
It would be worth while to search and see what you find about; 550xp carb

I have the newest carb and my saw still runs like sh*t so is it really worth your time lol

Well, this 550xp is getting my blood pressure up and my firewood cutting is getting way behind due to Husky's autotune blunder. I am doing a hail-Mary now and figure a new carb has got to be the solution, but deep down I have a feeling it may just be wishful thinking.

I know I would rather NOT spend 6 bills on a new saw. If I do have to drop $, I would give the Mark 2 (550xp) a chance, but it is also a "new model" and look at Husky's track record on this first model.:nofunny:

$140 for a new carb may be worth a shot.

I would switch to Stihl, but I have all my chains/bars/grinder,etc in Husky sizing.
 
Is the saw not running now or just has some issues? Have you tried the updated fuel lines and heat shield?
I have not switched fuel lines or added a shield.
After each trip to the shop, the dealer claims it is "good to go". And sure enough it is NOT good.
It will die on throttle. Sometimes it will die in the cut. Somedays it will not start at all.

I have even recently taken the carb off and backed out the air screw a bit and retried it,,, only now the saw runs weak/slow and will not drop RPM to a proper idle. (meaning the chain runs fast/constantly when it should be stopped during idle.) Now the saw is dangerous also.

Just hoping to find a source for a new carb that is matched to my coil so I can install it and see what results I may get.
Also, hoping to avoid my particular dealer at this point.
 
I’m going today for a firmware update. Gonna ask them to print out the trim numbers or have me go in the back and write them down. After that I will be tearing into this thing, I have all the test data from the fsm for the tank vent and carb metering lever, pressure test etc. A leak down will follow and after I’m done I really hope to find errors from the original build at the factory. If vacuum checks out and the carb checks out with all the tests and firmware update I will be scratching my head to say the least. I’m really hoping to find a vacuum leak in the case or a metering lever discrepancy to explain the running issues.
Very similar to center tree

Stalls randomly when idling
Hard to start cold
Bogs terribly even after 1 minute of warmup
Chain spins at idle

All I want is for it to work like my other two saws.
Pull the choke, pull it a couple times to get the turn over,
Push choke in pull once and it starts
Ten seconds later blip the throttle and your ready to rock

Warm starts
Pull the starter and your ready to rock

Lol not asking much here
 
If the saw doesn't have an air leak, just bite the bullet and get a new carb. I think they're a few reputable sellers on eBay that will program the carb to the coil.[emoji111] Don't expect the saw to ever start perfectly when really warm, that's just not going to happen, at least it hasn't in my experience.
 

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