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AngelofDarkness said:
I use an Oregon bar mounted file guide for all my sharpening. It's the Ganberg knockoff and it's kind of chinszy and plasticy, but it does the job. Normally I do 6-8 strokes to touch up a dull chain, I have done as many as 15 strokes, and I may have to on that chain. I might get the Carlton knockoff chain grinder from Bailys, the price is decent and I have heard good things about it.
Click to expand...

Hell its normally 3 strokes for me and the 3rd one is just for luck most of the time!
You need to stop and sharpen your chains way more often if you need 8 strokes to get it sharp, Or a new file lol
All this talk of 3 srokes will be reminding Space of the last time he got laid lol
This time difference thing sucks i think i had to read 6 pages to catch up!
 
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AngelofDarkness said:
I use an Oregon bar mounted file guide for all my sharpening. It's the Ganberg knockoff and it's kind of chinszy and plasticy, but it does the job. Normally I do 6-8 strokes to touch up a dull chain, I have done as many as 15 strokes, and I may have to on that chain. I might get the Carlton knockoff chain grinder from Bailys, the price is decent and I have heard good things about it.
Click to expand...

I recently did a couple chains that I dinged up a few cutters on (literally) and had to take 2mm off each cutter head with a file (thats why I like Skip chain). I took a heck of a lot more than 15 strokes off. I would find the most damaged cutter and file it until there is no damage, then measure it and set the rest to that measurement - or at least pretty close to it. The chains I did were a 60DL Oregon and a 72DL Stihl - I have about 6 hours total into the 2 chains.

I have a Granberg at my disposal, but I haven't used it yet. Currently I just use the Stihl 13/64 and Oregon 7/32 filing guides.

I would take it in and get it ground, otherwise it's gonna take forever.
 
COLD_IRON said:
Here is a picture of a 60DL Oregon LGX - Which should have the same cutter as your chain AoD. I think you have JGX - the skip variant of this chain.

This chain is new by the way.

You can see that if you look at the top plate on your cutters, the angle on your chain less than these.

Don't feel bad either. I did the same thing to 2 other chains of mine. Took 3 sharpening sessions to finally get the chains back to where I would cut with them. Good luck!

You might want to try investing in some Semi-Chisel chains too. Full chisel can dull pretty quick in dead or hard wood.
Click to expand...

Yes but that is LG not the newer style LGX
same angles anyhow

Scott
 
COLD_IRON said:
I recently did a couple chains that I dinged up a few cutters on (literally) and had to take 2mm off each cutter head with a file (thats why I like Skip chain). I took a heck of a lot more than 15 strokes off. I would find the most damaged cutter and file it until there is no damage, then measure it and set the rest to that measurement - or at least pretty close to it. The chains I did were a 60DL Oregon and a 72DL Stihl - I have about 6 hours total into the 2 chains.

I have a Granberg at my disposal, but I haven't used it yet. Currently I just use the Stihl 13/64 and Oregon 7/32 filing guides.

I would take it in and get it ground, otherwise it's gonna take forever.
Click to expand...

OUCH!!! Ive got an Oregon 12v rotary handheld grinder if i really have to take a lot off:cry: Usually on friends saws!
The wee 025 runs a Stihl semi chisel chain hell you can cut through nails fence wire nip a stone and its still sharp in 3 strokes!
 
scotclayshooter said:
OUCH!!! Ive got an Oregon 12v rotary handheld grinder if i really have to take a lot off:cry: Usually on friends saws!
The wee 025 runs a Stihl semi chisel chain hell you can cut through nails fence wire nip a stone and its still sharp in 3 strokes!
Click to expand...

Yea but the fact is - I learned a lot by doing those chains.

The 6 hours was over 3 different sessions. Each one getting progressively better. The Oregon chain is pretty decent, the Stihl one isn't quite as sharp as I would like though. Heck, I'll probably pull em out again if I have some spare time :hmm3grin2orange:
 
I don’t think anyone has mentioned yet that a skip chain dulls quicker than a full comp chain. It is hard some times to keep the long bars out of the dirt. Keep the chain sharp and you will like that saw a whole lot more.
THALL, you crack me up…LOLOL!
 
brncreeper said:
I don’t think anyone has mentioned yet that a skip chain dulls quicker than a full comp chain. It is hard some times to keep the long bars out of the dirt. Keep the chain sharp and you will like that saw a whole lot more.
THALL, you crack me up…LOLOL!
Click to expand...
For me personally I never found skip to get dull any faster than full comp? 95% of the wood I cut is very clean. But I prefer to run full comp less bouncy when limbing
 
COLD_IRON said:
I recently did a couple chains that I dinged up a few cutters on (literally) and had to take 2mm off each cutter head with a file (thats why I like Skip chain). I took a heck of a lot more than 15 strokes off. I would find the most damaged cutter and file it until there is no damage, then measure it and set the rest to that measurement - or at least pretty close to it. The chains I did were a 60DL Oregon and a 72DL Stihl - I have about 6 hours total into the 2 chains.

I have a Granberg at my disposal, but I haven't used it yet. Currently I just use the Stihl 13/64 and Oregon 7/32 filing guides.

I would take it in and get it ground, otherwise it's gonna take forever.
Click to expand...

You shouldn't have to match cutter length as long as you get the raker height set correctly for each tooth.
 
AngelofDarkness said:
I use an Oregon bar mounted file guide for all my sharpening. It's the Ganberg knockoff and it's kind of chinszy and plasticy, but it does the job. Normally I do 6-8 strokes to touch up a dull chain, I have done as many as 15 strokes, and I may have to on that chain. I might get the Carlton knockoff chain grinder from Bailys, the price is decent and I have heard good things about it.
Click to expand...

Remember to change out the file pretty often, and touch up before the chains get really dull, and you will need fewer strokes.

I agree with those who said that a grinder is a better solution on that chain.........
 
Austin1 said:
+1 on the husky file guide.
That husky file guide is the best for it's price and easy to use.:)
Click to expand...

Agreed, I think I even mentioned that gauge way back in the thread, but anyway, really, they are great guides.

That chain of your's looks far from new, for a new saw, looks like a 1/3 of its life is already gone.
 
Well, just for THALL, I did not sharpen that chain today, the saw is still sitting on my weight bench, has not moved since last night. I think I will let it sit there all day tomorrow too.

Did get some trigger time on the PP330 though, cutting up some 12"-14" silver maple logs out back. Man, I like that saw.
 
Have to agree with you "Spacemule" on cutter length, I have no problems with cutting crooked unless one side hit some dirt in the tree:cry: just use a file guide and file every raker down according to it's tooth
 

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