575xp operation report.

[COLD_IRON]

Here is a picture of a 60DL Oregon LGX - Which should have the same cutter as your chain AoD. I think you have JGX - the skip variant of this chain.

This chain is new by the way.

You can see that if you look at the top plate on your cutters, the angle on your chain less than these.

Don't feel bad either. I did the same thing to 2 other chains of mine. Took 3 sharpening sessions to finally get the chains back to where I would cut with them. Good luck!

You might want to try investing in some Semi-Chisel chains too. Full chisel can dull pretty quick in dead or hard wood.

 

[BIGBORE577]

Well thats what I get for never reading the manual for the camera. Oh well. I'll get some better pics of the dull chain tomorrow, just to irritate THALL.

You couldn't if you tried, you haven't the capacity. Make laugh and bust a gut, no problem, irritate? Never.

 

[Andyshine77]

Young man you need to learn how to sharpen chains properly before you attempt to use that poor saw again.

Instead of looking down at the chain, get in real tight 6" or less, at 6' your AF is searching for a focus point. Remember light is your friend, just watch out for glare.

You should be able to get an ok picture like this.

 

[Cedarkerf]

Previous post by a of dark "385XP - It will outcut an 066 any day of the week. "
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=62443

Between statements like this, sharpening like the pics ,calling a 575 a 441 killer ya mite want to take a step back and learn what you can from these guys irregardless of brand they own.

 

[parrisw]

Young man you need to learn how to sharpen chains properly before you attempt to use that poor saw again.

Instead of looking down at the chain, get in real tight 6" or less, at 6' your AF is searching for a focus point. Remember light is your friend, just watch out for glare.

You should be able to get an ok picture like this.

See, look at the top of that cutter tooth, look how difined the cutting edge is, you can't even really see the end, thats how it should be.

 

[spacemule]

hahahaha, forget the camera, SHARPEN THE CHAIN,GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR,LOL

What do you know about sharpening chains? Don't you just get a new saw, run it a couple of times, and then put it next to your bed while you look for another saw?

 

[SawTroll]

It is widely acknowledged that the MS441 owns the 575xp...you are living in some kind of fantasy world if you think otherwise.

Have you tried the NE575xp - plus .4hp, and minus .4 lbs?

Actually, have anyone seen one at all?

 

[SawTroll]

Ok, those pics are a little better, but closer would be better, but from what I can tell from those pics, it looks like that chain couldn't cut DOO DOO. Sorry to be harsh, but it looks like crap. Looks like you need to take off some more material to get past the damaged section.

It sure looks like that - it probably had a serious meeting with the ground.....

....looks like there still are some top-plate chrome damage.....

...and the top-plate angle looks too shallow to me as well.

 

[Tzed250]

See AoD, when you post a bunch of nonsense on here like "441 Slayer", and then show up with a chain you rocked in the first ten minutes of the saws life, and then show pictures of a "sharpened chain" that would not cut balsawood, your credibility goes right in the garbage can.

Act like you have some sense.

 

[2000ssm6]

No all you need is a big mac they will tuck there tails between there legs and run!Unless it is a older Stihl then it stands a chance to stand it's ground.

The 090 remains the most powerful saw made............

 

[taplinhill]

You MUST file the cutter until that "white line" is gone. That is the damage and every cutter is going to have similar damage. And after removing that much of the cutter the rakers will require filing as well. Do that and THALL will leave you alone.



.

 

[Stihl 041S]

This is no longer a thread

At the rate it is growing, it is not a thread, it is a virus.

 

[THALL10326]

What do you know about sharpening chains? Don't you just get a new saw, run it a couple of times, and then put it next to your bed while you look for another saw?

Psssssst, I know a dull chain when I see one. I reckon yours never get dull do they, I mean you cut wood the last time you got laid, bout 3 years ago wasn't it,hehehe

 

[blsnelling]

Look at the top flat surface of the cutter. Is it perfectly flat all the way to the cutting edge? Or, is it rounded off a little? You have to remove the rounded off part until the top of the cutter is flat. You also must have a very sharp point at the cutting top of the cutter. You likely need to have this chain ground to get it back in shape. Way to much filing to get it there.

 

[SawTroll]

You MUST file the cutter until that "white line" is gone. That is the damage and every cutter is going to have similar damage. And after removing that much of the cutter the rakers will require filing as well. Do that and THALL will leave you alone.



.

That is about what I tried to say a few posts back - top-plate damage......

...and he should do the rakers anyway, if they were too high out of the box, like he stated (they sometimes are on Oregon chains).

@Angel,
I suggest you get the proper Husky combo roller/raker guide for that chain - should be the one with the blue body - and make sure your files are 7/32".

The roller guide will help you holding the file at the right heigth, and some help with the top-plate angel as well.

 

[blsnelling]

And don't just file away on the rakers. You need to use the proper guide for that as well. Leave them too high and the saw won't cut well. Take them too low and the saw will jerk and jump around like crazy. That's hard on the saw.

My personal moto. My Dad taught me as a teenager learning to do stuff like this on my own. "If your going to do it, either do it right, or don't do it at all." I'm nearly 40 now and fully believe what he said. That's also the reason I rarely ever pay someone to do work for me. A lot of people just don't really care. It's worth it to go that extra mile, or spend a couple extra bucks, and do the job right. And do it right the first time. Mistakes are ok. We all make them. But it's not for lack of trying.

 

[HUSKYMAN]

I would take that chain to the dealer and have it sharpened by him, that way you have a straight chain to start with. Learning to file on a rocked out chain is about impossible. All the cutters will be different and the angles will be too.

Next time the saw tip touches something STOP SAWING IMMEDIATELY and whip your trusty file out of your pocket. 2-3 strokes will usually bring the chain back to razor sharp at this point. The condition that chain is in now, you are looking at a minimum of 6-8 strokes per tooth and raker filing as well. A two minute job has been turned into an hour job for a novice.

Practice on your smaller saws and work your way up. BTW the file you need is a 7/32"

 

[Austin1]

That is about what I tried to say a few posts back - top-plate damage......

...and he should do the rakers anyway, if they were too high out of the box, like he stated (they sometimes are on Oregon chains).

@Angel,
I suggest you get the proper Husky combo roller/raker guide for that chain - should be the one with the blue body - and make sure your files are 7/32".

The roller guide will help you holding the file at the right heigth, and some help with the top-plate angel as well.

+1 on the husky file guide.
Dam I am agreeing with you to much lately! I lent my guide to my friend with the 361 it came with a Oregon bar and chain not a Stihl bar and Chain. So the Husky guide works great with no mods to it.I could always beat that saw with my 2159 in a friendly cut off race, but I new my chains were sharper + the muff mod help to even the score. But now that the 2159 is ported it would not be a fair fight lol! But I would really like to see that 361 with some porting and now that he learned how to sharpen a chain it should be a good fight.
That husky file guide is the best for it's price and easy to use.

 

[gr8scott72]

That husky file guide is the best for it's price and easy to use.

I have never sharpened my own chain. I just picked up one of the stihl guides and the husky guide. I'm looking forward to trying them out. The husky one does look easy to use.

 

[AngelofDarkness]

I use an Oregon bar mounted file guide for all my sharpening. It's the Ganberg knockoff and it's kind of chinszy and plasticy, but it does the job. Normally I do 6-8 strokes to touch up a dull chain, I have done as many as 15 strokes, and I may have to on that chain. I might get the Carlton knockoff chain grinder from Bailys, the price is decent and I have heard good things about it.