Its very tough to do testing like this even with a dyno. How big will your sample size be?
661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?
- Thread starter redbull660
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porsche965
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm enjoying this civility between parties now. Much better content.
That's the bonus of a round table discussion, instead of the more traditional one where someone tries to sit at the head of the table with traditional views & beliefs.
Thansk
"I have a potty mouth"!
So much for this being another one of those useless oil threads as some people say. If you read between the gobbitygook BS, there is a bunch of good information being thrown around. Made me try some things I wouldn't have before. Glad this thread was started and hope it keeps going in a productive manner
Oh yeah, I agree.... "I have a potty mouth" and have a nice day!!Yea, like use 2R...I through that out there 100 pages back..So much for this being another one of those useless oil threads as some people say. If you read between the gobbitygook BS, there is a bunch of good information being thrown around. Made me try some things I wouldn't have before. Glad this thread was started and hope it keeps going in a productive manner
redbull660
Addicted to ArboristSite
Looking for 36" bar type wood. I've got a nice concentric piece of maple lined up for the first oil I choose to do. Might be able to get two oil's done on it. We'll see.
Going with the 36" cannon bar and 114dl long carbide. Taking the spikes off the saw so I can't dawg in. 2 cuts on one end and 1 cut on the other end. If the cuts are that long it'll really show up on the heat and possibly time. So I'll do 1 cut on one end and then two cuts on the other end. Then take temps.
I'm talking to a tree service about an hr from here...sounds like they might have just what i'm looking for.
Brad generously offered to port the saw for me. So the tests will be run with a ported saw...which should generate more heat. Furthermore, I've agreed to send the saw first to Chad to run on his dyno in stock config, then with my muffler mod config, then the saw goes to brad to get ported, then back to Chad to check gains, then back to me.
Couple of little tests I gotta take care of before this happens. Some other details to be worked out. It's all coming together. But I've really gotta sell some stuff and raise some cash.
Going with the 36" cannon bar and 114dl long carbide. Taking the spikes off the saw so I can't dawg in. 2 cuts on one end and 1 cut on the other end. If the cuts are that long it'll really show up on the heat and possibly time. So I'll do 1 cut on one end and then two cuts on the other end. Then take temps.
I'm talking to a tree service about an hr from here...sounds like they might have just what i'm looking for.
Brad generously offered to port the saw for me. So the tests will be run with a ported saw...which should generate more heat. Furthermore, I've agreed to send the saw first to Chad to run on his dyno in stock config, then with my muffler mod config, then the saw goes to brad to get ported, then back to Chad to check gains, then back to me.
Couple of little tests I gotta take care of before this happens. Some other details to be worked out. It's all coming together. But I've really gotta sell some stuff and raise some cash.
I takes my hat off to you.
Thansk
It's almost of no use when guys have their minds set on spending more money for a lesser product..Well c'mon.... you just need to speak up more and ASSERT yourself...........
porsche965
Addicted to ArboristSite
Typical lol
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
I've been using Honda HP2 lately
windthrown
361 Junkie
We need more oil on these threads!
Anal floss...
Anal floss...
Wow!.... that's some high quality electrical tape on the one gal.... still sticking after all that oilyness. Makes me wonder if it could be a GaryWay product???????
Are the oils going to be tested on the dyno? In my experience the bigger the test wood the harder it is to get consistent times. If the saws are going to Chad anyway, whey not just run them on the dyno? That way chain and test wood abnormalities are eliminated.
I know all the work you're putting in is substantial. My advice to you, is to take your time and make sure things are right before you post the data. You know we'll all be looking for all the holes, that's what we do.
Running a chain on a grinder or filing the chain can and will change how the chain cuts. It's best to use the same chain or chain off the same spool.
redbull660
Addicted to ArboristSite
diff oils on dyno - no, not that i know of. I don't know where Chad is located but guessing it's a ways from where I am.
consistent time big wood - I've not had that problem. But I am considering going to 28" instead of 36". It would make finding wood easier and I could do more cuts and generate more heat..maybe.
I have a test I still have to do to try and gauge how much heat is generated at each bar length. So I was going to do a test: 20 vs 24 vs 28 vs 30 vs 36" in the same logs and take temps and see if shorter or longer bars make more heat on the 661. Pretty sure they do from what I've seen.
I plan on using 1 carbide chain for each oil test. The 10 or so cuts I do isn't going to dull a carbide at all and thus affect the times where a regular chain it's much much more possible. I've gotta see how the stuff cuts first though...since it's safety chain. If it doesn't cut right. Then I'll go to a 28" .404 RS setup and do 1 chain per ratio.
Granted a regular chain may only change by maybee 1 second over 10-15 cuts. But I don't want that variance at all. The time it takes to do this test...isn't worth cutting a corner like that.
The dyno opens up a whole new set of variables, but I would think the results would be many times better than a human operator running a saw in variable material. Might save Redbull a considerable amount of money.
