661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?

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No offense meant, but I don't care what this stuff does in bikes or karts.

My test clearly showed you can't run H1R in a stock 661 at 32:1. It runs hot and slow. 42:1 runs cooler and faster...by a lot.

Now if I run something with a lower flash point like yamilube, I bet 32:1 with that would perform better relative to other mix ratios of yama lube...40:1 45:1 50:1.


some stuff on Flash point -

If you have a very low flash point it can result in increased combustion, but you are sacrificing lubrication by doing so since your lubricant is burning off before it even reaches the piston. There is a balance point that is necessary to not effect the combustion but still make the lubricant robust enough to reach the surfaces.

The flash point does have to do with combustion but there are more important properties that contribute to carbon buildup.

The flash point has more to do with how quickly the oil is consumed by the combustion process and how it affects the octane rating of the fuel.
And again you totally fail to understand what flashpoint is and what it measures....
Essentially what it measures, assuming then oil has a diluent is the temp at which the diluent flashes. The diluent makes up a small part of the blend.
 
well that is what I said. so what's your point?
Doesn't mean it won't run great in someone else's say on a different day.

Wanna hear something funny? The motorcycle guys argue that a low flash oil is better and seek them out..
Both are wrong in that you can not use flashpoint for anything else other than determine how dangerous the stuff is to ship and store.
 
well I'd like to point out that if you run an oil at 32:1, but it has say 20% solvent in it, your actually really running 40:1 actual oil.

on a different note...

ready!

t6c6dg.jpg
 
correct me if I'm wrong here...

You simply can't just run 32:1 with every oil. The oils discussed here have a wide range of different properties.

They have different film strengths but I'd still use 32:1 in a ported saws. Less oil....less lubrication. Read that article Keith posted.
 
well I'd like to point out that if you run an oil at 32:1, but it has say 20% solvent in it, your actually really running 40:1 actual oil.

on a different note...

ready!

t6c6dg.jpg
WOW ...............

hopefully going out today ............ do I get to pick ??

Only kidding ................. on the picking part, but I will PM you tracking when I get it.

that's a lot of spinning !!!!!!
 
well I'd like to point out that if you run an oil at 32:1, but it has say 20% solvent in it, your actually really running 40:1 actual oil.

on a different note...

ready!

t6c6dg.jpg
Any plans on testing Motul 710 vs Motul 800 off-road or other oils in a ported 660?
 
Very good article. I'll stay with 32:1 like Randy recommends. Looks like 10K - 13.5K rpms then 32:1. Interesting the Castor based oils had the least wear compared to the full synthetics.
I do say i like the syn blend it is a mix of both oils. My ports are clean and i still get smoke on warm up and when under load a few gallons later my engine is still plenty lubed and no carbon build up. But the leanest i go is 40 to 1
 
correct me if I'm wrong here...

You simply can't just run 32:1 with every oil. The oils discussed here have a wide range of different properties.
I've thought the same but I'm staying with plenty of oil (32:1) in my ported saw. Just for kicks, here's a comparison of different oil film strengths (viscosity) to oil ratios:
Belray H1R at 32:1 is equilvalent to Motul 800 off-road at 42:1
Lucas 32:1 = Motul 800 off-road at 100:1
Motul 800 off-road at 32:1 = Belray H1R at 25:1
Motul 800 off-road at 32:1 = Stihl hp ultra at 17:1
Klotz R50 at 32:1 = Motul 800 off-road at 38:1
 
You are making the assumption that more is better.
I'm comparing viscosity lab results which is related to film strength. The greater the film strength more protection but not necessarily more performance from a certain size chainsaw.
 
I do say i like the syn blend it is a mix of both oils. My ports are clean and i still get smoke on warm up and when under load a few gallons later my engine is still plenty lubed and no carbon build up. But the leanest i go is 40 to 1
That was in the 70's. Oils have came along ways since then and honestly I see no reason to use straight castor and very few reasons to run a castor blend in anything. However in Kart racing some guys do run straight castor at 16:1.
 

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