Good post Brad, also another thing to consider is that OEM's are specifying 50:1 in more and more applications so the additive package in oils are designed to perform best at 50:1. Also heat below a certain point can help keep a clean combustion chamber. Many blame rich oil or rich tune for build up where if they just ran their saw as intended at wot most of the time things would be fine.
661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?
- Thread starter redbull660
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I thought you might appreciate confirmation of your assumptions. Maybe not.
Yeah, I'm calling total BS on that as well. It's called the placebo affect. WAY too many assumptions are being made in this testing.
redbull660
Addicted to ArboristSite
well maybe the oil is to thick at 32:1 and it's slowing down the piston?
My tests are not the end all be all. If anything they should make you guys want to perform your own tests to confirm or question. Just because my results don't agree with what is expected or "known", doesn't mean they should just be written off. No one else is doing any testing or has done any tests that I've found/seen.
Like I said earlier. The only reason I'm doing this is to find what works best in my saws. Placebo effect my azz. I'm not trying to prove anything to anyone. I don't care about being wrong or right. I care about finding the best. Had I applied the 661 and 361 results to the 660 I wouldn't of found out that the 660 likes 40:1.
Also I don't get this line of thinking where all oils should be run at 32:1. Different make ups...solvents don't count as far the lube goes so your really not actually running 32:1. H1R and stihl and 800 much more pure.
My tests are not the end all be all. If anything they should make you guys want to perform your own tests to confirm or question. Just because my results don't agree with what is expected or "known", doesn't mean they should just be written off. No one else is doing any testing or has done any tests that I've found/seen.
Like I said earlier. The only reason I'm doing this is to find what works best in my saws. Placebo effect my azz. I'm not trying to prove anything to anyone. I don't care about being wrong or right. I care about finding the best. Had I applied the 661 and 361 results to the 660 I wouldn't of found out that the 660 likes 40:1.
Also I don't get this line of thinking where all oils should be run at 32:1. Different make ups...solvents don't count as far the lube goes so your really not actually running 32:1. H1R and stihl and 800 much more pure.
KG441c
Keith
How many turns out on the h of the 660 were u redbull?
zogger
Tree Freak
Well, I *appreciate* the testing you do.
KG441c
Keith
The 361 may run better at 32:1 with taller jetting
That is a LOT!
Ron660
Addicted to ArboristSite
What was your WOT on the stock DP 660 for each mix?
KG441c
Keith
Especially if the h was already too far out?
Try a decent oil that doesn't cause combustion issues...
Yea...
KG441c
Keith
I believe we will all have to eat crow and say u were right before this is done!
redbull660
Addicted to ArboristSite
"at the very most"
Going over to my dad's for dinner. I'll look at the saw when I get back. Limit caps are in place on the saw and I didn't hit the limit cap so 1/4 turn is probably over stating it. probably just easier/faster if I do a short video showing.
I tuned the saw to 13200 for each. Between 50 and 32 probably lost 300 rpm at the most. I'll just do it on video and you all can see.
A 1/4 of a turn is a lot, however 300 rpm isn't much, a cool gust of wind could do that.[emoji6]
Ron660
Addicted to ArboristSite
Tuning a saw using max no load rpm leaves alot to be desired IMO. I get the saw close by adjusting the high speed till it just cleans up, then I tape the tach to the handle bar and make some cuts till I find the adjustment that gives the most rpm in the cut.
1/4,or even 1/8 is a huge amount of adjustment when going from 50 to 32:1. I have read that going from 32:1 to 16:1 amounts to 1/4 of a main jet size on a Yamaha TZ-250 road racer. In my own expiereance I have never had to change a main jet when going from 32 to 20:1 on a bike. Usually just a small air screw adjustment or maybe a pilot jet
1/4,or even 1/8 is a huge amount of adjustment when going from 50 to 32:1. I have read that going from 32:1 to 16:1 amounts to 1/4 of a main jet size on a Yamaha TZ-250 road racer. In my own expiereance I have never had to change a main jet when going from 32 to 20:1 on a bike. Usually just a small air screw adjustment or maybe a pilot jet
redbull660
Addicted to ArboristSite
well let me just run some 50 and then some 32 and video the change in tune. The amount of tune change was important to me but not really a priority so basically I was just on guard for a large change and there wasn't. Didn't know it was so important to you guys. Anyway ya all have me curious again so we'll see what it does in the morning.
The saws state of tune is pretty important to the "test", no?
