A good trimming saw for $100?? Ryobi 10532 Review
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FATGUY
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I thought the saw had an adjustable oiler....
roncoinc
Official Stihl Disser
Dont show it in the owners manual..
never gave it a thought before to look..my two oil just right for me..
next time i pick one up i will see if anything can be done.
just to durned COLD to be playin in the shed even with heat.
You are right about the cold,
I just put my ported ryobi back together but will wait till it warms to go do some tuning and cutting with it.
I like a big lunch? Or am I out to lunch?
Season's Greetings from BC !!
I just put my ported ryobi back together but will wait till it warms to go do some tuning and cutting with it.
I like a big lunch? Or am I out to lunch?
Season's Greetings from BC !!
Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by roncoinc
try here for one.
$99 delivered..
http://www.toolsnow.com/catalogsearc...ryobi+chainsaw
I looked up your link. It was $99.99 plus $7.00 tax plus $18.04 shipping Still not bad at $125.03.
Wow !,,they even changed the webpage..
right in the add used to say free shipping,no more !
no tax to ship to my state..
-----------------
I went to that site last night and ordered one for $99.99 + tax $8.00 and free shipping.
spacemule
The Peanut Gallery
Don't know how many of you are in the Fayetteville area, but I saw two reconditioned/used Ryobis today for $89.99. They were green tagged, meaning that is a price for the specific saw and is not a normal price.
I ordered my saw last week on Sunday and it arrived today.
It was clean on the outside with no scuffs, scars or signs of wear, the bar did have a couple of marks, but looked like it made only one or two cuts.
Took the air cleaner cover off and there was a very slight amount of fine wood dust, but still clean.
Added some gas and oil, pumped the bulb and it fired on the second pull, ran for a few seconds then stopped. Pulled a few more times and could only get it pop and then nothing, so I thought it had flooded like some of the other posts noted. I waited about an hour and tried to start it again and nothing, then I noticed the primer bulb didn't feel right, so this time I poured a few drops of fuel into the carb and it fired right up, then died. As long as I worked the choke and pumped the bulb, I could sort of keep it running, then I noticed gas dripping off the handle.
Must be a leak in the tank or fuel line in area I can't see without taking it apart, its sucking air and leaking.
Now I need to read the fine print on how to return it.
It was clean on the outside with no scuffs, scars or signs of wear, the bar did have a couple of marks, but looked like it made only one or two cuts.
Took the air cleaner cover off and there was a very slight amount of fine wood dust, but still clean.
Added some gas and oil, pumped the bulb and it fired on the second pull, ran for a few seconds then stopped. Pulled a few more times and could only get it pop and then nothing, so I thought it had flooded like some of the other posts noted. I waited about an hour and tried to start it again and nothing, then I noticed the primer bulb didn't feel right, so this time I poured a few drops of fuel into the carb and it fired right up, then died. As long as I worked the choke and pumped the bulb, I could sort of keep it running, then I noticed gas dripping off the handle.
Must be a leak in the tank or fuel line in area I can't see without taking it apart, its sucking air and leaking.
Now I need to read the fine print on how to return it.
Last edited:
dante2
ArboristSite Member
Ondarvr remove the filter cover and look at the back of the primer bulb. Sounds like one of the hoses has come loose or off. I have a Mac that has a primer bulb on it and the hoses are very hard to keep on. Primer bulbs on saws suck. Hey guys is there a way to get rid of the primer bulb on this saw?
Thanks
I suspected a leaking hose or cracked fitting, but for warranty purposes I didn't want to touch it just incase it was something bigger that might cost money to fix, if it didn't have a warranty I would have pulled it apart right away. Its at a local Ryobi warranty repair shop right now, I might get a call today with information on what the problem is.
I suspected a leaking hose or cracked fitting, but for warranty purposes I didn't want to touch it just incase it was something bigger that might cost money to fix, if it didn't have a warranty I would have pulled it apart right away. Its at a local Ryobi warranty repair shop right now, I might get a call today with information on what the problem is.
Got my Ryobi the other day. The first thing I did was open the fuel cap and sure enough the filter was up against the cap. Actually tried to poke out when I took it off. I cut off as much fuel line as I could.
It started right up but was idleing extremely fast, almost fast enough to make a cut. The idle screw was turned way in. Got that fixed and it cuts very well, I need to adjust the carb though it is running pretty rich.
I know this had been posted a bunch, but in order to adjust the carb without grinding slots, all I need is a double d carb tool, right?????
Also the chainbrake doesn't work, book says to take it to a repair center, there isn't one around here. Shouldn't be much to it though should threre?
The handle flips forward, it just doesn't engage the band to the clutch, I don't the band is moving at all.
It started right up but was idleing extremely fast, almost fast enough to make a cut. The idle screw was turned way in. Got that fixed and it cuts very well, I need to adjust the carb though it is running pretty rich.
I know this had been posted a bunch, but in order to adjust the carb without grinding slots, all I need is a double d carb tool, right?????
Also the chainbrake doesn't work, book says to take it to a repair center, there isn't one around here. Shouldn't be much to it though should threre?
The handle flips forward, it just doesn't engage the band to the clutch, I don't the band is moving at all.
roncoinc
Official Stihl Disser
About everything you need to know is in this thread including pictures of the muffler mod and exhaust porting.
take the side cover off and have a look.. you should have got a booklet with it that shows the parts,probly just something unhooked.
Took the chain brake apart, nothing looks unhooked. It appears the band is not sliding forward when the brake is engaged.
The long spring is buckled up under tension, has anyone else looked at theirs?
I may need to grind some off of the plastic doohickey the band is attached to, it looks like it is hitting on the housing.
Also as seems normal. the clutch is rubbing on the cover. Would putting a couple of washers on the bar bolts be a fix?
Or would that mess up the oiler?
I didn't see anyone's fix on here for that.
The long spring is buckled up under tension, has anyone else looked at theirs?
I may need to grind some off of the plastic doohickey the band is attached to, it looks like it is hitting on the housing.
Also as seems normal. the clutch is rubbing on the cover. Would putting a couple of washers on the bar bolts be a fix?
Or would that mess up the oiler?
I didn't see anyone's fix on here for that.
roncoinc
Official Stihl Disser
I just ground off a ( very ) little plastic where it was rubbing..then a felt marker over it and ran it to see if it still rubbed,it didnt.
The saw is dangerous or maybe I'm dangerous to myself.
I took the chain brake band off and it seemed to be glued to the housing, wouldn't budge. Got that cleaned off and it will move back and forth now.
I was trying to compress the band spring back in place and my screwdriver slipped and I managed to stab myself, not once but twice in the hand.
I have never been able to accomplish that before.
Not sure where the spring ended up, I sort of lost interest in it, with the blood dripping and all.
I took the chain brake band off and it seemed to be glued to the housing, wouldn't budge. Got that cleaned off and it will move back and forth now.
I was trying to compress the band spring back in place and my screwdriver slipped and I managed to stab myself, not once but twice in the hand.
I have never been able to accomplish that before.
Not sure where the spring ended up, I sort of lost interest in it, with the blood dripping and all.
HimWill
Addicted to ArboristSite
The "neat way" to add a little clearance to the cover is to buy an extra outside bar plate and double up.The "double-D" carb tool (about $3 or so)is found at Edge and Engine.They can get the bar plates too,something less than $2 as I remember.They also stock the "odd-ball" sparkplugs in NGK brand.
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just keep shaking and turning till it stops sounding like a pepper shaker.
Kinda like getting a pick out when you drop it in your guitar.LOL
Mike
Kinda like getting a pick out when you drop it in your guitar.LOL
Mike
I did the muff mod per roncoinc's post, on mine today. It seems better off idle & more grunt in the cut. Many thanks to all who posted in this thread.:yourock:
Mine was lightly used for $85 w/ case only 5 milles from my house. I think its a sweet deal.
Mine was lightly used for $85 w/ case only 5 milles from my house. I think its a sweet deal.
Update
The Ryobi repair shop called today and said the saw is toast, there's so much scoring inside that it needs a complete rebuild, which is around $250 in parts, then add labor, plus repair the original problem of the air/fuel leak.
Ryobi is supposed to send them the info on how to get a replacement saw (not sure how long that will take).
I'm glad I didn't start to take it apart myself, if I had I'm sure nothing would be covered.
The Ryobi repair shop called today and said the saw is toast, there's so much scoring inside that it needs a complete rebuild, which is around $250 in parts, then add labor, plus repair the original problem of the air/fuel leak.
Ryobi is supposed to send them the info on how to get a replacement saw (not sure how long that will take).
I'm glad I didn't start to take it apart myself, if I had I'm sure nothing would be covered.
