Acquiring stihl 076 - questions

[west041]

What would you guys run on a completely rebuilt Stihl 076 with an unlimited carburetor (runs up over 12,000 RPMs on the tach)? No plans to mill with it at this time. I'd like to use it for cutting bigger maples and pines around my property, as well as flush cutting larger stumps. 36" diameter trees is probably the biggest I'll run into. I'm running .404 7 pin sprocket. I believe I'd like either 25" or 30" Stihl bar with full chisel. Do you guys think 25" is too small for a tip top 076?
The biggest saw I run regularly is an 041 super with 20" bar, so I was going to take it easy and just run 25" to get used to weight of the thing (I believe 076 is about 5 lbs heavier than the 041 super). But if 30" is better suited to the HP and torque then I'd like to get that. Thanks.

 

[computeruser]

That saw makes little sense until you get into the long bars. They are slow and heavy, but they will chew away at big stuff quite well. I have run them with 16, 25, and 41" bars. I would not go shorter than 32" on it. Anything shorter and odds are good that it is just the wrong tool for the job.

 

[west041]

Well I'll have to make it work for the task I described. I got a deal I could not pass up with this one and I have no plans to get a different big saw. Also, with the ungoverned carburetor it is a bit more aggressive than your average 076. And since I don't expect to cut many trees over 36", I see no point in making myself lug around a 36" bar. I'm assuming then that you recommend the 30" over the 25"?

 

[dgarrett]

If you are going to put a small bar on your 076 I would get a 9 or 10 tooth drive sprocket. In my opinion the gentleman that posted above gave good advise unless you want to get you chain speed up... Dave

 

[west041]

It is good advice but not really applicable to my situation. I realize that I have purchased this torque monster for less than ideal circumstances, I guess I was just trying to get a feel for what people preferred, and it sounds like I should go with the 30". I don't think the 36" is worth the extra weight and dollars, if it doesn't really fit my needs.

 

[alexcagle]

Doesn't stihl jump from 28" to 32" on 3002 series?
I would recommend 32" on that saw.
BTW, lets see it?
Me likes a big ass saw....

 

[computeruser]

You know, thinking about it more, it probably makes little practical difference 25-30". You will likely want to figure out how much you want to drop your rakers at that length for your desired cut speed and behavior in the type of wood you are cutting. It will likely be more than .025-.030 that will work best.

I don't think that the absence of the governor in the carb makes much practical difference in real world use. It never did on my saws - the 075 was governed, the 076 was not. Unless the saw is ported, once you get the saw properly loaded in the cut, you're back in governor range anyway. I think my 075 was the faster saw by a fair margin, especially with a longer bar, despite being within 5psi of one another. I ran 3/8" 8t for all uses - 16, 20, 24, 25, 41".

I kinda miss having one of these. Might have to buy another someday. Anyone got a clean 075 they want to move for a fair price?

 

[HuskStihl]

It all depends on what is in the water. If it is mostly mud and weeds, then a long bar would be the way to go. It there are lots of roots and debris, then I would go with a short bar so it can be more easily retrieved with the rope/chain

 

[alexcagle]

Is it me or is this tree looking at me.........

 

[west041]

I do appreciate the will intentioned input, I'm just looking to balance the saw weight wise for my needs. I realize on here it is all about the 441/066/661 but some of us like an older muscle saw. I only do a little bit of tree work for hire every year and just cut firewood for my own home so I was not worried about getting a super efficient saw or power/weight.

I was under the impression that the carburetor and/or the ignition on these models maxed out the RPMs somewhere around 9500. Is there any point to having it run up over 12,000? I'm assuming the engineers limited it for a reason, and I don't want to hurt the longevity of the saw.

 

[HuskStihl]

I do appreciate the will intentioned input

You are very welcome!

 

[west041]

Doesn't stihl jump from 28" to 32" on 3002 series?
I would recommend 32" on that saw.
BTW, lets see it?
Me likes a big ass saw....
View attachment 531114

Stihl jumps from 25" to 30" on the 3002 series bars (edit - that is, for .404). No 28" , don't know about 32".
I'm thinking a combo of 25" and 36" bars may be appropriate for this saw.

 

[west041]

You are very welcome!

I'll have to post a video of the 076 cutting to make a believer out of some of the skeptics. Might I add that you have added nothing to this thread. What do you like to use in the 111 CC class? Instead of being a smart ass you could help me out with some useful information.

 

[BIGD4DICE]

Try not to get offended by people posting wise comments on this website. I just sat out a 2 week suspension for defending a couple guys like you looking for sound advice. It is what it is.
I own a 051 and a 075 both of which are beasts. I changed them both over to 3/8 from .404 and running 8 pin sprockets. My 075 is running a 36" Cannon Superbar and it is dialed in for what I cut...28"-50" diameter. If youre not cutting that big I would consider a 9 pin sprocket on a 30" or 32". I cut all day with my Super 797 and my 075 for a back up saw. They are heavy saws but I'm a giant fella and it don't bother me.

 

[HuskStihl]

I'll have to post a video of the 076 cutting to make a believer out of some of the skeptics. Might I add that you have added nothing to this thread. What do you like to use in the 111 CC class? Instead of being a smart ass you could help me out with some useful information.

I apologize, but it was a dumb question. "What length bar should I run?" I worry about a guy with a souped up big saw who can't figure out what bar would be appropriate for it. At least you didn't call it a "blade", so that's a positive.

 

[blsnelling]

36". Anything less and I'm using a smaller saw.

 

[west041]

I apologize, but it was a dumb question. "What length bar should I run?" I worry about a guy with a souped up big saw who can't figure out what bar would be appropriate for it. At least you didn't call it a "blade", so that's a positive.

No worries man, you can't offend me, I learned a long time ago to not get bent out of shape what some guy online says about me. 5 posts ago my saw was a worthless POS that should be chucked in the river and now you're worried about me getting hurt? How could a tired old dog like an 076 hurt me? I thought it was too slow and fragile? Probably ten screws will rattle loose before it even gets going! Sounds like you have nothing new to add that can help me so you should probably go off to a different forum where people are into whatever saws you run. There are enough interesting people on here that find the old high displacement torque monsters like the 076 pretty fun, that we can keep the conversation going without you.

 

[HuskStihl]

No worries man, you can't offend me, I learned a long time ago to not get bent out of shape what some guy online says about me. 5 posts ago my saw was a worthless POS that should be chucked in the river and now you're worried about me getting hurt? How could a tired old dog like an 076 hurt me? I thought it was too slow and fragile? Probably ten screws will rattle loose before it even gets going! Sounds like you have nothing new to add that can help me so you should probably go off to a different forum where people are into whatever saws you run. There are enough interesting people on here that find the old high displacement torque monsters like the 076 pretty fun, that we can keep the conversation going without you.

It's an inanimate object. It's not like I criticized one of u'r children. I sincerely apologize for messing around in u'r thread. H.S. Out.

 

[west041]

It's an inanimate object. It's not like I criticized one of u'r children. I sincerely apologize for messing around in u'r thread. H.S. Out.

No need to apologize a second time bro. It's just a saw. I'm hoping it will be an awesome saw, unfortunately my situation calls for a smaller bar. I realize it is not ideal for the size of the saw but it was a deal I could not pass up. I wish the trees were bigger around here but they just aren't. The good news is that the 076 should be fantastic on a saw mill if I ever get around to setting one up.

I'll ask my question again - I'm a little curious about the long term effects of exceeding the RPM limit on the carburetor. To my knowledge there has been no other modifications done, just some porting of the muffler and richening up the mixture to accommodate that. I will be running 32:1 low octane ethanol free on this saw.

Try not to get offended by people posting wise comments on this website. I just sat out a 2 week suspension for defending a couple guys like you looking for sound advice. It is what it is.
I own a 051 and a 075 both of which are beasts. I changed them both over to 3/8 from .404 and running 8 pin sprockets. My 075 is running a 36" Cannon Superbar and it is dialed in for what I cut...28"-50" diameter. If youre not cutting that big I would consider a 9 pin sprocket on a 30" or 32". I cut all day with my Super 797 and my 075 for a back up saw. They are heavy saws but I'm a giant fella and it don't bother me.

Thanks for the real world advice, just what I was looking for. I am not cutting that big, literally nothing over 40". I'm not crazy about going to a 9 pin until I get a feel for the saw in my hands. Don't want to speed the chain up too much just yet.

Any specific negative effects of running a 25" or 30" bar? Besides the obvious "wrong tool for the job" type comments. I realize that a MS460 or 660 would be ideal for that bar size.

 

[BIGD4DICE]

No need to apologize a second time bro. It's just a saw. I'm hoping it will be an awesome saw, unfortunately my situation calls for a smaller bar. I realize it is not ideal for the size of the saw but it was a deal I could not pass up. I wish the trees were bigger around here but they just aren't. The good news is that the 076 should be fantastic on a saw mill if I ever get around to setting one up.

I'll ask my question again - I'm a little curious about the long term effects of exceeding the RPM limit on the carburetor. To my knowledge there has been no other modifications done, just some porting of the muffler and richening up the mixture to accommodate that. I will be running 32:1 low octane ethanol free on this saw.



Thanks for the real world advice, just what I was looking for. I am not cutting that big, literally nothing over 40". I'm not crazy about going to a 9 pin until I get a feel for the saw in my hands. Don't want to speed the chain up too much just yet.

Any specific negative effects of running a 25" or 30" bar? Besides the obvious "wrong tool for the job" type comments. I realize that a MS460 or 660 would be ideal for that bar size.

I would say run a 32" bar cause it's going to balance the weight better and it's a better application for these big saws. You never know when you'll need the extra length if you happen to get into some larger diameter wood. If you do go for a shorter bar, 8 pin 3/8 sprocket with a full comp chain. Small wood and full comp chains. Large wood and full skip. You can't go wrong. In the end you got a great saw.