Advice on cutting straight on trunks of hardish wood

[HuskStihl]

A quick question. I had a quick play at filing the worst side, and noticed that one or two teeth are say ~0.5-1.0mm shorter than the bulk of the others (probably were worse rocked). I didn't want to grind all the others down to this length unless I have to. Basically, I just don't want to have to shorten by more than I need. So I wondered:

1. What kind of length difference can I get away with? say 0.25-0.5mm? I'm currently clueless on this.
2. Or should I just completely remove (grind away) the shortest tooth, and then remove another tooth on the opposite side to match?

Hope these questions don't seem too silly! Guidance in this area would be good.

thanks
Matt

That will make no noticeable difference at all. If all the "right hand" cutters were 2mm shorter than the "left hand" ones, that would make it pull. I never shorten cutters to match, wastes chain.

 

[MattG]

'File back' as in remove damaged areas of a cutter, or to shorten a replacement cutter to the same length as others on the loop.

Philbert

Cool, thanks Philbert.

 

[MattG]

That will make no noticeable difference at all. If all the "right hand" cutters were 2mm shorter than the "left hand" ones, that would make it pull. I never shorten cutters to match, wastes chain.

Thanks HS,

That was the answer I wanted! Didn't want to unnecessarily waste chain and time!

 

[Homeowner]

I just asked because earlier in the thread people said if the lengths were uneven then cuts could end up being curved. I guess that's just in extreme cases...

Anyway, I'm a beginner with this aspect of things, so happy to keep asking questions and learning

With Husky guide, file rakers/depth guides and different length of cutters is not so much of issue, quite tolerant in regards of smoothness too.

Narrow kerf Husky guide fits to standard kerf when little bit of flat file is used, noticed that got wrong guide from the shop and didn't fancy for another 2 hour ride, so I just filed it a bit.

 

[MattG]

I just throw them away when they get all rocked like that!

If you have no grinder, lots of damaged cutter to remove, and a decently light touch..

OUCH! As noted, you need to file / grind past the damage and start again. Lots of life left in that chain..

Old school takes time to learn, I am happy you want to learn that way..

Straight edge between two teeth & a feeler gauge (.025) is one way....takes plenty of patience though....

Quick update, if anyone is still watching. Eventually got the rocked 20" chain repaired - I think. After the grinding (thanks HuskStihl), filing, I figured I'd set the rakers at 0.029" since the chains a bit worn. I used the feeler gauge and straight edge approach (thanks Duane), which took ages, but I liked the concept, so I just did it. I got some piccies of the finished result... my photography aint great (wife is holidaying with other relatives), but here goes:






And here's a quick clip of it cutting. Used my ms341 since the 064 still has the 25incher on it and just cos I thought that it would be nice. The first cut was through birch, which it just seemed to fall through, and the second was on a bit of that hard cherry stuff which made the 341 have a think about it, but the saw still ate it up fine. I used pretty much no down pressure, and the chain basically self-fed. All good I think. Yes my 14 year old daughter did the youtube clip and unfortunately used a somewhat verbose and pompous description for it but then that's kids for you

 

[lone wolf]

Quick update, if anyone is still watching. Eventually got the rocked 20" chain repaired - I think. After the grinding (thanks HuskStihl), filing, I figured I'd set the rakers at 0.029" since the chains a bit worn. I used the feeler gauge and straight edge approach (thanks Duane), which took ages, but I liked the concept, so I just did it. I got some piccies of the finished result... my photography aint great (wife is holidaying with other relatives), but here goes:

View attachment 518732

View attachment 518733
View attachment 518734

And here's a quick clip of it cutting. Used my ms341 since the 064 still has the 25incher on it and just cos I thought that it would be nice. The first cut was through birch, which it just seemed to fall through, and the second was on a bit of that hard cherry stuff which made the 341 have a think about it, but the saw still ate it up fine. I used pretty much no down pressure, and the chain basically self-fed. All good I think. Yes my 14 year old daughter did the youtube clip and unfortunately used a somewhat verbose and pompous description for it but then that's kids for you

If that was the rocked chain then you certainly are doing a good job of sharpening them now. You must have a lot of time or patience.

 

[HuskStihl]

Quick update, if anyone is still watching. Eventually got the rocked 20" chain repaired - I think. After the grinding (thanks HuskStihl), filing, I figured I'd set the rakers at 0.029" since the chains a bit worn. I used the feeler gauge and straight edge approach (thanks Duane), which took ages, but I liked the concept, so I just did it. I got some piccies of the finished result... my photography aint great (wife is holidaying with other relatives), but here goes:

View attachment 518732

View attachment 518733
View attachment 518734

And here's a quick clip of it cutting. Used my ms341 since the 064 still has the 25incher on it and just cos I thought that it would be nice. The first cut was through birch, which it just seemed to fall through, and the second was on a bit of that hard cherry stuff which made the 341 have a think about it, but the saw still ate it up fine. I used pretty much no down pressure, and the chain basically self-fed. All good I think. Yes my 14 year old daughter did the youtube clip and unfortunately used a somewhat verbose and pompous description for it but then that's kids for you

If you make all u'r cutters look like the ones pictured, you will be in great shape. Looks good

 

[MattG]

If that was the rocked chain then you certainly are doing a good job of sharpening them now. You must have a lot of time or patience.

If you make all u'r cutters look like the ones pictured, you will be in great shape. Looks good

Thanks Dudes! Regarding the time and patience bit - yeah sure, but I just done it every now and again. It's not like it's my living like lots of you folks. Kinda fitted bits and pieces between my more boring domestic jobs.

Anyway it was the advice from you lot that REALLY helped

 

[pioneerguy600]

You did a good job on that chain Matt, better than some PRO cutters I know and have cut with them often. Nothing like a very sharp self feeding chain on any saw, no matter how big or small.

 

[7sleeper]

@MattG ,

Very nice pictures! And with these comes the chance for feedback/well meant critisism.

In the first picture I have the impression that the raker is filed down a tad to low. Half or one file stroke less would have been better. Just leave out the rakers when filing the next time.

In the second picture I have the impression that the cutter, you can see a fine line of reflection at the "pointy end", needs one more file stroke to be perfect.

In the third picture I also have the impression that the raker is a bit too low. Further the cutter, you can see a fine line of reflection, needs one more file stroke to be perfect. I also have the impression that on the first pic the cutter has a fine line of reflection on half the length but due to the distance I am not quite certain.

All well and no offense meant!

Good luck!

7

 

[MattG]

@MattG ,

Very nice pictures! And with these comes the chance for feedback/well meant critisism.

In the first picture I have the impression that the raker is filed down a tad to low. Half or one file stroke less would have been better. Just leave out the rakers when filing the next time.

In the second picture I have the impression that the cutter, you can see a fine line of reflection at the "pointy end", needs one more file stroke to be perfect.

In the third picture I also have the impression that the raker is a bit too low. Further the cutter, you can see a fine line of reflection, needs one more file stroke to be perfect. I also have the impression that on the first pic the cutter has a fine line of reflection on half the length but due to the distance I am not quite certain.

All well and no offense meant!

Good luck!

7

Thanks for the tips 7!

Don't worry I don't take offense on criticism, etc. - it all just helps as far as I'm concerned. Yes, I'm still learning... especially with the rakers (and yeah I know not to do them as often as the cutters.) It was the first time I'd used Duane's straight edge and feeler gauge method, and my inaccurate STIHL gauge had left them so high, that it me AGES to do them. So I guess I got a bit gung-ho now and again and over lowered them now and again!

So what's it the deal with the reflection? Is it just telling you "I still shiny because the file didn't quite touch me here"? Perhaps I'm not letting the round file go back or higher enough on the tooth?

thanks again!

 

[7sleeper]

Thanks for the tips 7!...
So what's it the deal with the reflection? Is it just telling you "I still shiny because the file didn't quite touch me here"? Perhaps I'm not letting the round file go back or higher enough on the tooth?

thanks again!

Reflection means flat surface = not sharp edge = not back or high enough on the tooth. Just by looking at the Images, I would guess one more pass with the file will let it disappear.

g,

7

 

[MattG]

Reflection means flat surface = not sharp edge = not back or high enough on the tooth. Just by looking at the Images, I would guess one more pass with the file will let it disappear.

g,

7

Thanks 7

See ya later!