Air power vs Hydraulic power?

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Toxic2

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I was finishing up some welds on the splitter and decided to run the sled down with air power..thing is it only extended to 22 inches..This is suppose to be a brand new 24 inch stoke ram..Will i get the extra 2 inches when using hydralic fluid? There is 24 inches in between the 2 ports where the hydraulic lines hook up...

Also i took the time to put a level on my ram before i welded the sled up soild..Now i didnt take into account my beam wasnt quite level so i am not quite on a perfect plain..I can make up the difference on the rear hydraulic mount by grinding some off( it isnt welded to the beam yet)bringing the ram closer to the beam thus making it parallel to the beam). However if that little bit of difference doesnt matter i am not gonna bother..

picture for reference..



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yes i left the other port plugged with the plug that it came with and just threaded an air fitting into the back side..Would that cause it not to fully open? i just assumed that if i didnt keep the other plug in the air would just escape..
 
Yes, it's a double acting cylinder. Each port is separated. Push on one side, other side has to go out.
With that plug in, you are compressing the air on that side. Remove plug and you should end up with full travel.
 
Mine did the same thing with air, just not enough push i guess. Hooked up the hydraulics and it worked fine.
 
If you are measuring 24" from the inside edge to inside edge of the ports, then the ram should open a full 24". If measuring center to center of the ports then you will come up with less than 24" extension.

Harry K
 
Thanks guys......I removed the other port plug and got full travel..also modifyed the rear ram mount and got it level.:rock:
 
I see you shop a lot at Princess Auto. I love the place. Is the motor on your splitter a Chinese clone from Princess or brand name ??
 
just a thought:

when extended and splitting some tuff stuff, there will be a lot of pressure on the front end of that cylinder. wouldn't it be wise to have that fastened down?


DSCF0207.jpg
 
just a thought:

when extended and splitting some tuff stuff, there will be a lot of pressure on the front end of that cylinder. wouldn't it be wise to have that fastened down?


DSCF0207.jpg

Some different schools of thought here, but the push plate holds the cylinder down and it not being secure on the front end lets it "float" a little, reducing stress.
 
I see you shop a lot at Princess Auto. I love the place. Is the motor on your splitter a Chinese clone from Princess or brand name ??

I dont mind some of the PA stuff.. I definitly wouldnt buy powerfist brand electrical tools but for the basic shop stuff it does what i need.

The motor is a 9 hp Lifan clone that i bought from Yardgear..Paid too much for it and i could have got a 13hp at PA for 250 on sale..oh well

I was really impressed with the sandblast cabinet. Had to use silcone on the joints when assembling to keep the sand in. With a good shop vac and a trouble light inside the cabinet it is a joy to use..way better than rigging up the big one and working outside in the cold..If it fits in there we use that one.. It isnt mine but my buddy doesnt have enough compressor to run it so we store use it in my shop..
 
just a thought:

when extended and splitting some tuff stuff, there will be a lot of pressure on the front end of that cylinder. wouldn't it be wise to have that fastened down?

I have thought about it but am unsure if it is needed..I am sure i will find out after a couple splits tho..
 
i hold mine down because the last splitter i had bent the ram because the center lifted.

it was just a suggestion...not a recommendation.
 
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