Alternative to sharpening your chain

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You would be better served to learn how to touch up, and yes even sharpen up a rocked out chain, money wise...........

C'mon Tommy...where's that video!
 
How would you know? You've never sharpened a chain in your life!

For me you is correct. At the price I getem it isn't worth my time to sharpen one. However I have made $8000.00 this year sharpening chains for those that want em sharpened. At 8.50 a pop that 941 chains I've done this year. Last year I did 1500 chains but I'm getting better at selling new chains now, every new one sold is one less I have to sharpen,hehe Sharpening chains verses grass growing, both the same, boring!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I can do a light touch up on the Silvey in under 10 minutes for a 24", but I still like to hit the drags and gullets every time if I can which adds about 5 minutes for each operation on the round grinder. Since I'm only doing 1-2 chains at a time it seems that setting up the grinders takes the longest time. Sometimes that takes 45 minutes and a full glass of bourbon.

I got a 2 28" full comps and a 37" half skip to do one of the nights this week and they were ran in dirty wood so that will take a large bite to straighten out. I might have to pick up another bottle of sharpening fuel.

I'll be cleaning gullets this evening on a 84dl chain... And I bet there will be a glass of something behind me of course...
Cause that stupid grinder gets dust in my bourbon...

This thread is a hoot!!!

1. There ain't no way I'm getting 4 cords of wood cut with one sharpening...
2. Off the roll RSLK chain cuts great, but cuts better with a stroke off the rakers.
3. I've tested the square in Hedge... Cuts good, but 3 tanks and speed is noticeably reduced."Still Cutting though"
4. You need to buy Farmerdoug's chains from him and sharpen them... Then sell them to me in "better than new"
condition... (Please clean gullets and set rakers before shipping though)
I'll use them on soft wood...
Like Oak...
And stuff...

:hell_boy:
 
I'll be cleaning gullets this evening on a 84dl chain... And I bet there will be a glass of something behind me of course...
Cause that stupid grinder gets dust in my bourbon...

This thread is a hoot!!!

1. There ain't no way I'm getting 4 cords of wood cut with one sharpening...
2. Off the roll RSLK chain cuts great, but cuts better with a stroke off the rakers.
3. I've tested the square in Hedge... Cuts good, but 3 tanks and speed is noticeably reduced."Still Cutting though"
4. You need to buy Farmerdoug's chains from him and sharpen them... Then sell them to me in "better than new"
condition... (Please clean gullets and set rakers before shipping though)
I'll use them on soft wood...
Like Oak...
And stuff...

:hell_boy:

I put a something over the top of the glass, there is no safe spot around a reversing grinder. Would I loose my man card if I bought a sippy cup to keep the grinder dust out of my drink?

You can get 4 cords to one sharpening... if you're cutting debarked pine.

But we like to cut the soft stuff like:
white oak,
hedge,
elm,
rock maple,
that black thing at the Iowa GTG that was breaking race chains,
hackberry (the one that slipped our minds on Friday night after the first few sips of Creamy Dark),
and the worst... skidded whatever in that sandy WI soil... WOW those chains are a mess. :msp_scared:
 
I put a something over the top of the glass, there is no safe spot around a reversing grinder. Would I loose my man card if I bought a sippy cup to keep the grinder dust out of my drink?

You can get 4 cords to one sharpening... if you're cutting debarked pine.

But we like to cut the soft stuff like:
white oak,
hedge,
elm,
rock maple,
that black thing at the Iowa GTG that was breaking race chains,
hackberry (the one that slipped our minds on Friday night after the first few sips of Creamy Dark),
and the worst... skidded whatever in that sandy WI soil... WOW those chains are a mess. :msp_scared:

Aaaahhhh....
Hackberry!!!
Got alot of that too...

256215d1349717764-logs1-jpg


:msp_sneaky:
 
Stihl chain defintely holds its edge longer, but likewise is harder to sharpen with a file, not to mention HARD ON FILES. Unfortunately, with all the:censored: crap I hit (rocks, nails, wire, etc) I don't make a habit of using a lot of Stihl chain. Oregon s plenty good for that.:hmm3grin2orange: I'll use the grinder on occasion, particularly to even up link length, but usually just sharpen with a round file.

4 cords to get a dull chain? I've had chains pretty useless after just a few cuts, and that in what seemed to be clean wood. I've seen sparks from the chain while cutting black locust that was standing and live.:msp_confused: The last milling I did was on a black wlanut crotch long. What I didn't know as there was some metal in the wood (blue/black stain) and a piece of limestone buried in a bark inclusion deep in the crotch.:angry: It sucks when you have to back the mill out of the cut to resharpen.:mad2:

For me Stihl RM is about as good as it gets.:msp_thumbup:
 
The entire time I have been part of this forum, I have only seen people discuss sharpening their chain or paying someone to sharpen it for them.

The question is to how many people out there are take my position on chainsaw chain. I do not like cutting with a dull chain. If the chain is not cutting up to par, then I take it off and put a brand new chain on. The chain is only used 1 time and is sold for $4 on craigslist in a batch to someone who enjoys sharpening chain.

I usually get 4 cord of cut firewood out of a single chain. I run with Stihl RSLK 84 drivers on a 25" bar.

The Stihl RSLK 84 drivers will run $12.24 + $2.50 to put the loop together. Total cost just under $15. You sell the used loop for $4 and your net cost is $11 per chain.

I don't do enough volume to own a silvey grinder set and my time is too valuable to sharpen myself. I have yet to find a chain that is better than one right out of the box. I have had my chains done on a Silvey grinder, (but not had the rakers set) and I still prefer the stuff right out of the box.

So do you guys think I am totally insane? Chain cost per cord is right around $2.75.

Sorry Farmerdoug, but I gotta go with rest....Takes me about 5 minutes to hit mine with my dremmel and it cuts better than it did out of the box, plus, I would like for my saw to do the work with a sharp chain, not me with a dull chain. The only time a new chain goes on is when the current one is used to its end. I go with maybe not crazy, but a little too frugel for me.
 
Got a 36" bar of full comp here that needs filing. Who wants to do it? Not that many DLs, its 9/16"...


Ah, nevermind. CL it, I can get it cheaper off the roll for these dirty MI hardwoods. After all, I can go .4 cord before it cuts like a butter knife.
 
Got a 36" bar of full comp here that needs filing. Who wants to do it? Not that many DLs, its 9/16"...


Ah, nevermind. CL it, I can get it cheaper off the roll for these dirty MI hardwoods. After all, I can go .4 cord before it cuts like a butter knife.

I'll give ya $4 for it.
 
I usually get 4 cord of cut firewood out of a single chain. I run with Stihl RSLK 84 drivers on a 25" bar.

First off, why are you cutting firewood with a 25" bar? Felling, ok, but bucking?
Second, 4 cords? Really? What are you cutting, Balsa? 2x4's?

I touch up the chain on every tank refill unless I rock it. Basically, it's always sharp. Unless I rock it or hit an old fence gate hinge buried in a tree. Which I do from time to time.
 
For me you is correct. At the price I getem it isn't worth my time to sharpen one. However I have made $8000.00 this year sharpening chains for those that want em sharpened. At 8.50 a pop that 941 chains I've done this year. Last year I did 1500 chains but I'm getting better at selling new chains now, every new one sold is one less I have to sharpen,hehe Sharpening chains verses grass growing, both the same, boring!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:msp_w00t: If you never filed a chain, you likely never cut with a really sharp one. Chain need to be touched up with a file right out of the box (or off the reel), and the rakers also need to be checked (and often adjusted).....
 

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