Am I doing this right?

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sthomas77

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Ok, so I just got a huge red maple score. Almost all of the pieces are 30"+ (pics to come later). Now, I have a ms270 with a 20" bar. I have found that I cannot bury the bar. If I do, the chain grabs and stops. So, what I have started to do, is cut in ~4" strips until the bar is fully in, then going to the other side. Is this the proper method? Or should I be able to bury the bar no problem?
Thanks! Sean
 
First off a 20" bar is a little long for a 270. A 16" bar will cut 30" logs. I assume that you are losing RPM's and the clutch is slipping, is this correct? Are the rakers set to low, and the cutters are taking to big a bite to bury the bar. What type of chain are you running? .325 chain would have an easier time than .375. or is the clutch just worn? I suppose you could get a skip tooth 20" chain.
The bottom line is do whatever needs to be done to get them cut. It just sounds like it will take awhile.
 
A 20" bar is pushing it for a 270, especially if you have no skip chain which I suspect is the case. I agree with flewism that if you put a 16" bar on it you should be able to cut one side complete, pound in a wedge and then hit the other side.
 
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if your saw is well tuned and you are running sharp chain you should be able to go full tilt but like the other guys have posted you are pushing the limits of that saw with a 20" bar, especially if you are running 3/8 and not 325 chain.
 
Well, I definitely didn't realize that 20" is a bit big for the saw. Stihl says it can run one, and that's part of the reason I selected this model. Although in retrospect, I should have gone with a 361. I would say that the rakers are set properly, since my shop is the one to sharpen the chain last. I am running .325 safety chain. Would a different chain help? I have had the saw for just under a year (from new) and it has been back several times for poor running, usually after several hours of use. The shop can never find a problem, although they can't run it for enough time to duplicate it. 30" is the smaller stuff. I would say the base of the trees are 36-38". I think I need to convince my wife that I need a 441....
 
Well, I definitely didn't realize that 20" is a bit big for the saw. Stihl says it can run one, and that's part of the reason I selected this model. Although in retrospect, I should have gone with a 361. I would say that the rakers are set properly, since my shop is the one to sharpen the chain last. I am running .325 safety chain. Would a different chain help? I have had the saw for just under a year (from new) and it has been back several times for poor running, usually after several hours of use. The shop can never find a problem, although they can't run it for enough time to duplicate it. 30" is the smaller stuff. I would say the base of the trees are 36-38". I think I need to convince my wife that I need a 441....

1. yes you are pushing it slightly

2. Yes you should have gone with the 361

3. If you have the proper PPE, go ahead and get a more aggressive chain

4. Take it to a dealer that knows what they are doing...

5. MS460 and don't look back.....:clap:
 
If you are cutting for long periods of time you may want to consider running 2or 3 chains or get in the habit of stopping every half hour or so and touching up your chains with a file. Gives your saw a chance to cool down as well when you stop to change or sharpen. Also gives you a rest.
 
Give that 270 a muffler mod, re-tune, and definately check out your rakers, if they are too low it will stall.

I just realized mine ran crappy new out of the box too, It had a pinched fuel hose and took it in under warranty. Heck no I didn't buy it new, it was a x-mas present. You'll be cuttin all day with that thing lol
 
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