And, It Begins-- My Official Scrap 562XP Rebuild Thread

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AlfA01

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Well, got all of my 562XP parts today. Thanks to @rupedoggy for the parts saw.

Anyway, this is a hobby rebuild to see if I can pull it off, learn some stuff, maybe port it and turn it up a bit and do it all cheaper than I could just buy one locally here in Greece. On paper it looks achievable, if I can source the missing AV parts, dogs and bar for pretty cheap.

Problems right off the bat: EL46 carb. Yep, I was hoping for another version, but it appears I got the potential 'problem child' carb. 5-bolt case - known for leaking oil under the muffler and it appears it has been even though the seller said it wasn't. Burnt piston - this thing melted down and froze hard in the cylinder. It appears the PO tried so fiercely to unstick the piston that he broke the starter recoil plastic rope housing. Also appears that the chain derailed at some point and smacked the case and cracked a bolt housing - not sure if this will affect me or not yet.

More on the EL46, potential airleaks and meltdown. The failure of this saw is unknown. Could be an airleak, could be carb related or even straight gassed. I'm leaning hard toward one of the first two, as there is quite a bit of 2-stroke oil in the crankcase. And, from what I've been told by folks that work on these often, the carb is unlikely to cause meltdown. They usually run poor and bog, but not meltdown.

So, I sourced a bunch of used J'Red parts from eBay, which has me ready to at least start getting this thing in some sort of order. First thing I will do is get the starter recoil back in order and check the spark. I want to make sure the coil is good before I tear it apart. Peace of mind, I guess... Then on to the pressure/vacuum test.

I also scored a full wrap handle for pretty cheap. And an OEM piston and cylinder.

Pics to come....

This project may turn out, or I may end up like this guy....https://www.jukinmedia.com/licensing/view/984909
Either way, you guys will get the full story as I slowly go through this saw build.

Wish my luck!
Cheers,
 
Updates:

Went to Husky dealer and had the carb linked up. It appears that thee carb didn't detect a fail, overheat, etc. I'm trying to view the system in Greek, so its an added degree of difficulty for me.

Anyway, it appears the saw ran for 178+ hours and was started 2000+ times.

Also, fixed the starter recoil and test for spark......things are looking pretty good in the spark department!
 
Pre-porting shots of the cylinder and transfers....OEM Husky...
 

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This fuel line is showing some distortion and lifting around the plastic pass through hole. I took it out and checked it for cracks and whatnot. Everything appears good...its soft pliable and sealed tightly against the gas tank.

IMG_20180321_175843.jpg

This is the damage caused by the chain derailing. I don't have an AC TIG welder, so I will see if I can round somebody up to give this a few hits and it should be okay, if I can find Magnesium filler rod.

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Crank seal on the PTO side. They appear fine, but that ain't gonna cut it. Ordering new seals today. Hopefully Husky has them locally in-stock. Are these seals interchangeable with any of the other 5-series Husky models?

Coil and flywheel. Flywheel is ready to come off. Just need to rig up a little puller.
IMG_20180322_073146.jpg
 
Couple taps with a dead blow hammer usually frees flywheels up for me.

Yeah, that's usually the route I go too. This one is a little stuck, but I haven't tried too awful hard to get it off yet. Been working on muffler mods and cleanup. The muffler I bought second hand had a big crack on the back of it, so some welding was already in order. No harm in opening it fully and welding it all back together after some airflow improvements.
 
Muffler and beginning mods....IMG_20180322_115054.jpg This is the built in spacer style muffler. Not sure which one the saw came with....this is from a donor J'Red.


IMG_20180322_120038.jpg Yep, this baby tips the scale at 388g (.86 pounds). That means on a 13lb saw, a considerable amount of the weight is the darned muffler.....matter of fact it accounts for about 1/14 (near 8%) of the overall weight of the saw. Muffler mod won't reduce much weight by removing the baffle!

IMG_20180322_120051.jpg Starting the surgery....opening a door on the back to gut the baffle. Not much in terms of weight savings, but exhaust gas flow will be much improved.
Before starting the mod, I was cleaning parts with the air hose. I put 90psi of air pressure through the exhaust entry port and could barely feel a breeze on the outlet side. That is significant restriction, which probably accounts for a ton of heat retention.
Just my guess, but I'd say the hot start problems these models suffered has a lot to do with this restrictive, heat retaining muffler.


IMG_20180322_131853.jpg

IMG_20180322_131911.jpg Baffle about 70% removed. Looks a little rough in this pic. I cleaned it up with the Dremel.

IMG_20180322_131920.jpg Haven't added the dual port yet. I had thought to do it from the back when I had it open, but decided that I would remove the deflector on the front and add it from there. May want to change the deflector angle and rivet it back in place. I'll be using SS (Inox for the EU folks) rivets.


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This is the cylinder heat deflect that mounts in conjunction with the muffler. This pic is post mod and matches the cylinder exhaust porting I've done so far. I'll post up some pics later of the muffler and this deflector to show how much material I've removed and how much restriction in exhaust flow has been eliminated.
 
Alright, what the helk is the steel alloy this muffler is made from? It appears to me there is some copper in it, as when you sand it you can see some copper colored metal showing. It must be for heat dissipation and corrosion resistance. In any case, its a PITA to weld. And, the thinness of the metal in general and you've got blowouts constantly when trying to weld. I'm giving up on the welding. I'm having trouble with my TIG gun. I think I'm going to have to replace it, or at least have the finger switch replaced. Brazing it is....

A shot of the cylinder heat deflector and muffler to show how much I've opened up the exhaust port.


IMG_20180323_081828.jpg

So, I've gotta cut out all of that material on the muffler side to be matched with the cylinder and cylinder heat deflector.
 
The DOM/Serial tag would have been attached by those rivets.

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Well, I guess that's why I can't find it....it was already missing when I bought it. Maybe @rupedoggy would be so kind as to chime in, if he has any information on the whereabouts of that tag?

Underneath on the left case (flywheel side) I see a V1 (Version 1) and Assy 5229877 molded into the case.
 
Sometimes the dealer had to replace a saw under warranty. The Husky rep would take the tag and leave the dealer the saw for parts. That is why so much was missing. When I bought the parts, this is what I got.
Once in a while someone on here has an extra tag from a broken or junked out case. Mike
 
Sometimes the dealer had to replace a saw under warranty. The Husky rep would take the tag and leave the dealer the saw for parts. That is why so much was missing. When I bought the parts, this is what I got.
Once in a while someone on here has an extra tag from a broken or junked out case. Mike

I don't need it. Some guys had inquired about the year of manufacture. I'm generally not a Husky guy, so I didn't know where the tag was located to answer the question. Warranty saw? Cool! Soon to be a mod saw....
 
Throttle trigger and operator presence are in. Just found out I don't have the 3X25mm pin that holds the throttle trigger in place. Got a piece of hard copper wire holding it temporarily.

Also noteworthy from this shot in the lower right, you can see the white plastic tank vent. Is this a check valve type vent, meaning allows venting in one direction only? I would assume so. What psi does it work at? My assumption is that it is to vent excessive pressure in the tank to atmosphere?
I can't find any information on readily, so I plan on replacing it and going from there.

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