Any way to rehab a clutch on my husky 51?

[Jim Timber]

Running the saw today to break in the new piston/cylinder, I found it didn't take much pressure to stall the chain. The engine was still trying to pull it, but it seemed like there just wasn't enough friction.

I'm running a 16" .325 .058 B&C and I'm guessing a 7 pin w/new semi chisel (trying it for the first time - filthy wood).

So since this was a used saw - do I need new shoes, or can I rehab the clutch with some tinkering?

 

[brando]

I believe you can buy the shoes from baileys

 

[fatboy1941]

I just did mine with parts from chainsawr, a site sponsor. very highly recommended from me.

 

[Jim Timber]

Is it possible to rough them up? The guy I got it from had a Christmas tree farm, and I'm betting he glazed them with part throttle. With how good the saw looks, I just don't see them being worn out.

 

[Axlerod74]

The clutch shoes should have a minimum of 1\8th inch of material at the thinnest point or it is time to replace them. I'm not sure the worn clutch is your problem here. I replaced mine when it was wore down this much and it was still pulling hard. All of the parts are available as this clutch was used on MANY models for MANY years. You will need a good vice and about 3 hands to get the spring apart :angry2: but it is certainly do-able.

 

[Busmech]

Try a new clutch drum, they wear faster than the shoes usually.

 

[Jim Timber]

I haven't pulled the cover yet since I don't have any tools up here to deal with it anyway. This saw would lose to the wild thing I gave my sister.

I'll be home tomorrow night, and will look at it then.

 

[Jim Timber]

Pulled the cover just now and there's at least .035" space between the drum and the shoes. There's still an obvious ridge between the face and the side of the shoe, but there's not all that much material there. I don't see any sign of a different friction material, and the drum doesn't have any grooving in it deep enough to catch a fingernail (there is a slight groove in the middle, but it's probably only a couple thou).

I guess it's possible it ate some chips.

 

[Axlerod74]

Have you checked compression? What are your carb settings on H and L screws? Clutch looks to have plenty of life left even though the ridge indicates some wear. Shoes may need replacing but this doesn't sound like it is the problem for what you are experiencing.

 

[sunfish]

Clutch looks good. Sounds like a power problem to me.

 

[rupedoggy]

Try a new clutch drum, they wear faster than the shoes usually.

Listen to this man.

 

[Jim Timber]

Just getting to the bottom of the first tank of fuel on a new p&c. I've got it running a little rich for break in. No clue where in terms of turns the needles are at.

I noticed the exhaust note change, and realised one of my muffler nuts had backed off then I shut it down for the day. Would a tiny exhaust leak have that big of impact?

 

[HiOctane]

Your clutch and your drum is are good as per pics.Check if the part around the splines is not unwelded or cracked,happens some times.And check if your rim splines are not worn bad .

 

[Axlerod74]

A loose muffler can scour a piston fairly quick and definately affect performance. I usually put muffler bolts on with blue lock-tite. It absorbs vibration well and can be broke loose easy enough.

A good starting point for carb settings is to turn both H and L needles in until GENTLY seated. Then back each one out one to 1 1\8th turn.

 

[Jim Timber]

This one was straight gassed, then shelved for a decade til I bought it for $20. I left the carb where it was for the first run and then dialed it by ear. It wasn't too far off, considering I BB'd it when I got the new piston and cylinder.

After dinner, I'm going to pull the muffler and have a look. I hope it didn't eat itself - that'd be the most expensive afternoon of trail clearing I've ever had. :msp_unsure:

 

[Axlerod74]

Hope all looks well.

 

[Jim Timber]

I figured out what happened.

The bolt that was loose gets bound up in the cavity in the head at a screwy angle and then must vibrate free (or grow from heat) and fall into place when the saw is used.

Pulling the muffler: the piston and cylinder look good, but it's painfully obvious I need to take a die grinder to that cylinder. I also did a muffler mod on it while I had it apart this time. I'll burn through this tank of fuel and then pull it apart for porting.

I'm guessing the exhaust was leaking when the saw lost it's guts. Thanks for the help on this one guys, I appreciate it!