My Husky 51/Woodsman Pro/Full Chisel

[bwalker]

And your correct, you only have to please yourself. If your happy with poor cutting chain keep on what your doing. Just don't try to convince me that your results are anything but poor.
Lastly, most of us come to these boards to learn and gain knowledge. There are a diverse bunch of people out there with alot of collective knowledge. You might listen to what people say when you ask their opinion, instead of getting butt hurt when they are honest with you.

 

[Kenskip1]

And your correct, you only have to please yourself. If your happy with poor cutting chain keep on what your doing. Just don't try to convince me that your results are anything but poor.
Lastly, most of us come to these boards to learn and gain knowledge. There are a diverse bunch of people out there with alot of collective knowledge. You might listen to what people say when you ask their opinion, instead of getting butt hurt when they are honest with you.

And in closing, you are right. I tend to take things in a negative way at times. However, the spruce you were cutting still had bark on it. This tells me the tree was still wet inside. Yes it looks impressive throwing chips but put the saw into some hardwood and see how long it will hold an edge. here we have an abundance of oak. It's all over the place. Anyway I do listen and tend to have a spirited debate when someone tries pulling the wool over my eyes. I now have a Echo CS 590. This thing is a beast. Best monies I have payed for a saw ever. I will never buy a new Stihl or Husky. They are not worth the cost. On my 025 I replaced the oil pump. Got it directly from the dealer. It had made in china on it. Anyway enough rambling. Thanks for the semi kind words. Remember this, Old Age and Wisdom Shall Overcome Youth and Inexperience. Watch the oil pump video I put up. Thanks, Ken

 

[bwalker]

And in closing, you are right. I tend to take things in a negative way at times. However, the spruce you were cutting still had bark on it. This tells me the tree was still wet inside. Yes it looks impressive throwing chips but put the saw into some hardwood and see how long it will hold an edge. here we have an abundance of oak. It's all over the place. Anyway I do listen and tend to have a spirited debate when someone tries pulling the wool over my eyes. I now have a Echo CS 590. This thing is a beast. Best monies I have payed for a saw ever. I will never buy a new Stihl or Husky. They are not worth the cost. On my 025 I replaced the oil pump. Got it directly from the dealer. It had made in china on it. Anyway enough rambling. Thanks for the semi kind words. Remember this, Old Age and Wisdom Shall Overcome Youth and Inexperience. Watch the oil pump video I put up. Thanks, Ken

I might have cut a stick or two iron wood, yellow birch, rock maple, and red oak when I lived in Upper Mi and various kinds of oak, beech, and Hickory when I lived in lower MI. I know what it takes to cut hard wood and the chain I posted a pic of will eat up hard wood like now ones business. With good chain life too. The only difference is I am running lower rakers out here in Montana where there is mostly softwoods.
That spruce died from spruce bud worm fwiw and was dead for several years. It was bone dry.
I did watch the oil pump vid. That's a good way to bench test a pump.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

GD! I hate to agree with @bwalker , but your chain should be self feeding not forced through the wood.
I cut mostly hardwood for the outdoor burner and the angles on that chain need improvement.
If someone offered you 400.00$ for that chain ,you should jump on it!

 

[Kenskip1]

GD! I hate to agree with @bwalker , but your chain should be self feeding not forced through the wood.
I cut mostly hardwood for the outdoor burner and the angles on that chain need improvement.
If someone offered you 400.00$ for that chain ,you should jump on it!

Sir, Post 35 explains it. As to the angles the manufacture recommends 30 degrees and this is what I am using. Ken

 

[bwalker]

Sir, Post 35 explains it. As to the angles the manufacture recommends 30 degrees and this is what I am using. Ken

30 degrees is the top plate angle and honestly not the most important. Those Jolly grinders are very inaccurate and very inaccurate from side to side. When I had a Tecomec I had to set each side up differently to achieve the same profile side to side and the numbers on the grinder corresponded poorly to any actual chain angle gage.
Regardless of all that you have been lead to water on what a good tooth profile looks like and have chosen to ignore it. That's fine, compare it to a factory new tooth and the evidence will be before your eyes.
Beyond that and at risk of being repetitive the video is telling. The saw is cutting poorly. Anyone with a little bit of experience knows this.
Just admit your grinding skills suck, move on and try to get better.

 

[Kenskip1]

Sir, do you possess a collage degree? As to the Jolly Star can you show any conclusive evidence or is this simply your uneducated opinion? Show me the facts. The people at Carlton that manufacture the chain specify a certain angle. These people have had years of well educated people that know what they are talking about. Have you ever used this chain on one of your saws? I had valued you opinion now however, I may have made a mistake. Your last sentence is in need of refinement just like you attitude. I guess being polite does not work while attempting to have a civil conversation. Have a safe and happy holiday, Ken

 

[bwalker]

Sir, do you possess a collage degree? As to the Jolly Star can you show any conclusive evidence or is this simply your uneducated opinion? Show me the facts. The people at Carlton that manufacture the chain specify a certain angle. These people have had years of well educated people that know what they are talking about. Have you ever used this chain on one of your saws? I had valued you opinion now however, I may have made a mistake. Your last sentence is in need of refinement just like you attitude. I guess being polite does not work while attempting to have a civil conversation. Have a safe and happy holiday, Ken

Not that it's Germain to this discussion, but I have a BS and in addition am 8 credits away from a BA.
My comments on the grinder are spot on. I owned a Tecomec grinder! And you are certainly not maintaining a factory tooth profile regardless of what you think or how you think your grinder is set up.

 

[pdqdl]

Guys! Really. This isn't the place for a pissing match. Each has their own opinion, you need to learn how to listen to the other guy and respect the fact that sometimes the other guy cannot see your point of view.

If you are looking for a 2nd opinion on the facts, I'll be happy to give you mine.

Kenskip, the pictured chain is not "sharp" and it does not appear to have been professionally sharpened. You should look a bit closer at the pictures and try to evaluate the facts a bit more fairly. Trust me, I am highly qualified to tell you this. I have been running a chainsaw repair shop and sharpening chains for over 30 years. Furthermore, I run a tree service, and I run chainsaws for a living.

While your saw is running great, and it is throwing chips, it might do a bit better if it was sharper. I personally think that if you had a sharper chain, it would stall in the wood and not cut as well. Reason: your chain is obviously missing some depth guages, and the clearance looks to me like it is filed way too low. This is a common trick that will help a worn chain continue cutting long after many users would have discarded the chain. I routinely run my chains down to the barest slivers of remaining tooth, but we also compensate by taking down the depth gauges a bit more than a new chain.

This will compensate quite effectively for somewhat dull teeth, but it will also punish an operator that happens to have a very sharp chain. In my own operations, I have even had to stop using a climbing saw because it was too sharp and my mechanic had taken the depth guages down too far. As soon as the saw would contact the wood, it would bind into the cut and stall the engine.

I have a simple suggestion. Do you own and use a depth guage for filing your chain, or do you just grind 'em down? Show us a picture of your chain with a properly positioned depth guage displaying the actual clearance, and we will all be better informed.

I personally prefer this item:


Regarding proper angles: Set your chisel tooth chain at 25° in hardwoods for general crosscutting, 30° for softwoods. Set your depth gauges at .025 for homeowner or underpowered chainsaws. Go for .030 if your saw isn't dogging out at .025 and you want to go faster and press into the wood lighter. If you are running your saw in dirty conditions or long between good sharpening, then greater depths might be in order.

Other opinions on this topic are likely! To each, their own. Have fun, enjoy the work you do, and quit worrying about someone else's opinion. If you dislike their thoughts, you don't have to take it personally.

 

[Kenskip1]

Guys! Really. This isn't the place for a pissing match. Each has their own opinion, you need to learn how to listen to the other guy and respect the fact that sometimes the other guy cannot see your point of view.

If you are looking for a 2nd opinion on the facts, I'll be happy to give you mine.

Kenskip, the pictured chain is not "sharp" and it does not appear to have been professionally sharpened. You should look a bit closer at the pictures and try to evaluate the facts a bit more fairly. Trust me, I am highly qualified to tell you this. I have been running a chainsaw repair shop and sharpening chains for over 30 years. Furthermore, I run a tree service, and I run chainsaws for a living.

While your saw is running great, and it is throwing chips, it might do a bit better if it was sharper. I personally think that if you had a sharper chain, it would stall in the wood and not cut as well. Reason: your chain is obviously missing some depth guages, and the clearance looks to me like it is filed way too low. This is a common trick that will help a worn chain continue cutting long after many users would have discarded the chain. I routinely run my chains down to the barest slivers of remaining tooth, but we also compensate by taking down the depth gauges a bit more than a new chain.

This will compensate quite effectively for somewhat dull teeth, but it will also punish an operator that happens to have a very sharp chain. In my own operations, I have even had to stop using a climbing saw because it was too sharp and my mechanic had taken the depth guages down too far. As soon as the saw would contact the wood, it would bind into the cut and stall the engine.

I have a simple suggestion. Do you own and use a depth guage for filing your chain, or do you just grind 'em down? Show us a picture of your chain with a properly positioned depth guage displaying the actual clearance, and we will all be better informed.

I personally prefer this item:
View attachment 949339

Regarding proper angles: Set your chisel tooth chain at 25° in hardwoods for general crosscutting, 30° for softwoods. Set your depth gauges at .025 for homeowner or underpowered chainsaws. Go for .030 if your saw isn't dogging out at .025 and you want to go faster and press into the wood lighter. If you are running your saw in dirty conditions or long between good sharpening, then greater depths might be in order.

Other opinions on this topic are likely! To each, their own. Have fun, enjoy the work you do, and quit worrying about someone else's opinion. If you dislike their thoughts, you don't have to take it personally.

Quite honestly, this chain has about had it. Yes I do own several depth gauges made by Stihl. They do not work on the Woodsman/Carlton chain. I was using 30 as mentioned that was on the box the chain arrived in. Thank you for your concern, Ken

 

[pdqdl]

I haven't found any brand of depth gauge that doesn't work on all brands. For the most part, they measure all sizes of chain as well. The Husqvarna depth guages that I also like are specific to the size of chain being sharpened.

If you are hand filing, I recommend these:



Sadly, you must have the right guide for each size of chain. I don't do square-filed chains, so I cannot comment how they work for that, but I imagine they only work with round files.

 

[bwalker]

Quite honestly, this chain has about had it. Yes I do own several depth gauges made by Stihl. They do not work on the Woodsman/Carlton chain. I was using 30 as mentioned that was on the box the chain arrived in. Thank you for your concern, Ken

It's got quit a bit of life in it yet. If you sharpen it properly it will cut good.
And again there is much more to it than top plate angle.

 

[bwalker]

Guys! Really. This isn't the place for a pissing match. Each has their own opinion, you need to learn how to listen to the other guy and respect the fact that sometimes the other guy cannot see your point of view.

If you are looking for a 2nd opinion on the facts, I'll be happy to give you mine.

Kenskip, the pictured chain is not "sharp" and it does not appear to have been professionally sharpened. You should look a bit closer at the pictures and try to evaluate the facts a bit more fairly. Trust me, I am highly qualified to tell you this. I have been running a chainsaw repair shop and sharpening chains for over 30 years. Furthermore, I run a tree service, and I run chainsaws for a living.

While your saw is running great, and it is throwing chips, it might do a bit better if it was sharper. I personally think that if you had a sharper chain, it would stall in the wood and not cut as well. Reason: your chain is obviously missing some depth guages, and the clearance looks to me like it is filed way too low. This is a common trick that will help a worn chain continue cutting long after many users would have discarded the chain. I routinely run my chains down to the barest slivers of remaining tooth, but we also compensate by taking down the depth gauges a bit more than a new chain.

This will compensate quite effectively for somewhat dull teeth, but it will also punish an operator that happens to have a very sharp chain. In my own operations, I have even had to stop using a climbing saw because it was too sharp and my mechanic had taken the depth guages down too far. As soon as the saw would contact the wood, it would bind into the cut and stall the engine.

I have a simple suggestion. Do you own and use a depth guage for filing your chain, or do you just grind 'em down? Show us a picture of your chain with a properly positioned depth guage displaying the actual clearance, and we will all be better informed.

I personally prefer this item:
View attachment 949339

Regarding proper angles: Set your chisel tooth chain at 25° in hardwoods for general crosscutting, 30° for softwoods. Set your depth gauges at .025 for homeowner or underpowered chainsaws. Go for .030 if your saw isn't dogging out at .025 and you want to go faster and press into the wood lighter. If you are running your saw in dirty conditions or long between good sharpening, then greater depths might be in order.

Other opinions on this topic are likely! To each, their own. Have fun, enjoy the work you do, and quit worrying about someone else's opinion. If you dislike their thoughts, you don't have to take it personally.

There are facts and there are opinions. The fact of the matter is this chain cuts poorly in the video and its easy to see why when looking at pictures of the teeth.
The idea that everyone's opinion is valid is absurd. People have all sorts of ridiculous opinions.

 

[bwalker]

I haven't found any brand of depth gauge that doesn't work on all brands. For the most part, they measure all sizes of chain as well. The Husqvarna depth guages that I also like are specific to the size of chain being sharpened.

If you are hand filing, I recommend these:

View attachment 949363

Sadly, you must have the right guide for each size of chain. I don't do square-filed chains, so I cannot comment how they work for that, but I imagine they only work with round files.

Sound advice on the roller file guide. Those with a little practice will net you much better results.

 

[pdqdl]

There are facts and there are opinions. The fact of the matter is this chain cuts poorly in the video and its easy to see why when looking at pictures of the teeth.
The idea that everyone's opinion is valid is absurd. People have all sorts of ridiculous opinions.

Try not to escalate this please. I am notorious for my long detailed destruction of folk's posts, and I am trying to restrain that habit.

For example, I never said anything about everyone's opinion being valid. You misquoted me, which suggests that you weren't listening too carefully. Your observation that people have ridiculous opinions is often true, but I think you need to remember that is equally true of your own opinions. Let me give you an example: you don't seem to understand what a chainsaw looks like when it "cuts poorly". Let me assure you that there are many, many occasions when I would have been delighted to have one that cuts as well as kenskip's.

You offered well intended observations about the saw's performance and sharpening. Kenskip chose not to accept your comments. Please just be a nice fellow and give it a rest.

 

[bwalker]

Try not to escalate this please. I am notorious for my long detailed destruction of folk's posts, and I am trying to restrain that habit.

For example, I never said anything about everyone's opinion being valid. You misquoted me. Your observation that people have ridiculous opinions is often true, but I think you need to remember that is equally true of your own opinions. Let me give you an example: you don't seem to understand what a chainsaw looks like when it "cuts poorly". Let me assure you that there are many, many occasions when I would have been delighted to have one that cuts as well as kenskip's.

You offered well intended observations about the saw's performance and sharpening. Kenskip chose not to accept your comments. Please just be a nice fellow and give it a rest.

Can a saw cut worse? Oh yes! That doesn't make what was videoed a good cutting saw and not by any stretch.
As I mentioned earlier. This sight is great for gaining knowledge. We all started out not knowing much. As such Ken should take the advice he asked for instead of getting hurt when the comments didn't meet his lofty expectations.

 

[3000 FPS]

Try not to escalate this please. I am notorious for my long detailed destruction of folk's posts, and I am trying to restrain that habit.
You offered well intended observations about the saw's performance and sharpening. Kenskip chose not to accept your comments. Please just be a nice fellow and give it a rest.

+1

 

[manomet]

I may be new to this but the. posted picture shows a chain missing teeth as well as rakers, is this thread a parody?

 

[pdqdl]

Not that we are aware of. In retrospect, it might be a possibility.

Sometimes the obvious eludes detection due to the searchers looking in the wrong places.