Guys! Really. This isn't the place for a pissing match. Each has their own opinion, you need to learn how to listen to the other guy and respect the fact that sometimes the other guy cannot see your point of view.
If you are looking for a 2nd opinion on the facts, I'll be happy to give you mine.
Kenskip, the pictured chain is not "sharp" and it does not appear to have been professionally sharpened. You should look a bit closer at the pictures and try to evaluate the facts a bit more fairly. Trust me, I am highly qualified to tell you this. I have been running a chainsaw repair shop and sharpening chains for over 30 years. Furthermore, I run a tree service, and I run chainsaws for a living.
While your saw is running great, and it is throwing chips, it might do a bit better if it was sharper. I personally think that if you had a sharper chain, it would stall in the wood and not cut as well. Reason: your chain is obviously missing some depth guages, and the clearance looks to me like it is filed way too low. This is a common trick that will help a worn chain continue cutting long after many users would have discarded the chain. I routinely run my chains down to the barest slivers of remaining tooth, but we also compensate by taking down the depth gauges a bit more than a new chain.
This will compensate quite effectively for somewhat dull teeth, but it will also punish an operator that happens to have a very sharp chain. In my own operations, I have even had to stop using a climbing saw because it was too sharp and my mechanic had taken the depth guages down too far. As soon as the saw would contact the wood, it would bind into the cut and stall the engine.
I have a simple suggestion. Do you own and use a depth guage for filing your chain, or do you just grind 'em down? Show us a picture of your chain with a properly positioned depth guage displaying the actual clearance, and we will all be better informed.
I personally prefer this item:
View attachment 949339
Regarding proper angles: Set your chisel tooth chain at 25° in hardwoods for general crosscutting, 30° for softwoods. Set your depth gauges at .025 for homeowner or underpowered chainsaws. Go for .030 if your saw isn't dogging out at .025 and you want to go faster and press into the wood lighter. If you are running your saw in dirty conditions or long between good sharpening, then greater depths might be in order.
Other opinions on this topic are likely! To each, their own. Have fun, enjoy the work you do, and quit worrying about someone else's opinion. If you dislike their thoughts, you don't have to take it personally.