Attention Shaver owners

[projectsho89]

Maybe thats part of the increased cost of the CB ??


:jawdrop: :agree2:

EVERY manufacturer of every product with a warranty reserves part of the purchase price in anticipation of potential future warranty expenses.

Basic business concept.....

Steve

 

[fletcher0780]

Nope,the whole boiler is going back for repair or replacment.They will pick up here and haul ti Minn. and back on their dime.Great product and great dealer.Scott

Do they disconnect and reconnect everything for you too? If so that's a great warranty. Although it seams like it would make more sense to send a tech with a new door and replace it on site. Either way it's great they're going to take care of the problem for you. What is the problem with the door? I heard before they went to cast doors they had warping issues.

I'm not going to get into bashing one boiler or another. I think different boilers have different benefits for different people. Short of the fly by night company's most of the OWB's on the market all seem to have their pro's and con's. My Shaver suits my needs and my budget very well, and regardless of what OWB I bought, I would be experimenting with different modifications. Any of them beat burning oil

 

[tanker]

The mtg. brackets for the door are off and the door dose'nt sit square.I had the option of getting someone in to weld the holes shut and redrill or send back,I chose to send back as they are paying either way and if they fix it,can't be any issues from them about the warranty.As far as the unhook,about 10 minutes time can have it completely unhooked,boiler antifreeze drained into a couple of mini bulk plastic totes and ready to load,guy up the road has a masonary business and will use his Lull to move off the pad and onto the semi.I think that speaks pretty highly of them.

 

[vanhorn]

Cancelling Order at Shaver

To those who have cancelled their orders at Shaver...which I'm considering doing, since I ordered it in June 2008 and still have no stove...How long did it take for you to receive your deposit back? I want to order a Nature's Comfort stove and need the deposit money to purchase it. Please respond.

Thank you!!!

 

[derwood91]

I ordered through a dealer so I'm not sure how long it took. He just told me how much money to bring when I picked up my new NATURE'S COMFORT. Projectsho89 any input here?

 

[LTREES]

To those who have cancelled their orders at Shaver...which I'm considering doing, since I ordered it in June 2008 and still have no stove...How long did it take for you to receive your deposit back? I want to order a Nature's Comfort stove and need the deposit money to purchase it. Please respond.

Thank you!!!

Took about 1 week, that was in the first week of Oct.

 

[projectsho89]

I ordered through a dealer so I'm not sure how long it took. He just told me how much money to bring when I picked up my new NATURE'S COMFORT. Projectsho89 any input here?

They have not even acknowledged my cancellation yet. I guess I'll have my sister who is an attorney call them.....

Steve

 

[beerman6]

yikes

 

[fletcher0780]

Having not seen the shaver, except in pictures, I was hoping to use the existing fan. I guess I figured removing the bolts and rotating it 90 would work. From your description it sounds as if the bolt pattern is not square. I would probably re-drill or make an adapter plate of some sort. Then figure the optimal height for the solenoid with the damper system loosely fitted together and weld a small bracket to the back of the stove. It's just one of those things, you just don't know until you get there. Let me know if you need any more info and I'll do my best. Looking forward to the pics of your thermostat set-up. Trenched my line in today. Soil is so sandy the trench kept caving in. ran two trenches side by side then hand dug the middle out. 75 feet...... my young back don't feel so young anymore................ But it's done!! Plumbing and electrical this weekend!!!

I modded my spare blower last night, I'll take pics when I get home and post them. I plan on doing the following this weekend:

1. Mount modded blower with solenoid
2. add more hi-temp silicone to access door to fix a small steam hole
3. build a well to drop in the top of my water jacket for my Ranco controller
4. add more insulation to the top of the furnace, and insulate the rear door
5. burn a couple bags of newspaper to clean out the chimney
6. enjoy my 72* house
7. of course I'll take and post pictures for all who are interested.

 

[John D]

I modded my spare blower last night, I'll take pics when I get home and post them. I plan on doing the following this weekend:

1. Mount modded blower with solenoid
2. add more hi-temp silicone to access door to fix a small steam hole
3. build a well to drop in the top of my water jacket for my Ranco controller
4. add more insulation to the top of the furnace, and insulate the rear door
5. burn a couple bags of newspaper to clean out the chimney
6. enjoy my 72* house
7. of course I'll take and post pictures for all who are interested.

Of course i want pics! I need some advice as well .I got a Shaver 250 coming,supposedly this week. I'm pouring my concrete pad this week,how important is it that the lines come up 6" from the outside of the boiler? I'd rather pour the pad/set the unit with the lines a little more towards the center of the rear access panel. The way the pipes laid in the trench,they settled that way.Now the ground is freezing,and it isnt easy to work with,do you think this will be a problem? The only pic i seen was on shavers site,and from that pic it looked like it didnt matter much.

 

[fletcher0780]

Of course i want pics! I need some advice as well .I got a Shaver 250 coming,supposedly this week. I'm pouring my concrete pad this week,how important is it that the lines come up 6" from the outside of the boiler? I'd rather pour the pad/set the unit with the lines a little more towards the center of the rear access panel. The way the pipes laid in the trench,they settled that way.Now the ground is freezing,and it isnt easy to work with,do you think this will be a problem? The only pic i seen was on shavers site,and from that pic it looked like it didnt matter much.

The only problem you might run into, is the blower is dead center. Here is my boiler, you can see I didn't follow their instructions.

 

[John D]

Thank you! That helps a lot.I think i wil be ok.I plan to put a few blocks under the unit,so the door is a touch higher ,this should help with me having room to slide the pipes by the blower. Why do you have such a large electrical conduit? It looks like its 2".That appears to take up quite abit of space as well. I ran a 1" sch 40,and a spare 4" drain pipe,which i can slide a type UF thru if needed,and I thought it was overkill.

 

[fletcher0780]

Thank you! That helps a lot.I think i wil be ok.I plan to put a few blocks under the unit,so the door is a touch higher ,this should help with me having room to slide the pipes by the blower. Why do you have such a large electrical conduit? It looks like its 2".That appears to take up quite abit of space as well. I ran a 1" sch 40,and a spare 4" drain pipe,which i can slide a type UF thru if needed,and I thought it was overkill.

I'd lift it up between 6-8" if I were you. It will make it a nice loading height, and will allow you to put a bucket under the ashpan so you can pull the ashes directly into the bucket. I went wit 2" because I'll eventually use it to run power to my future barn, same reason I ran a 1" water line to fill the boiler. make sure you pick up a tube of hi-temp silicone and seal the rear cover really well.

 

[ngzcaz]

On the subject of the kitsch; most people already have something to scrape the ashes out. All of these things cost money and in keeping with our dedication to keeping our low prices low, we don't add things which would add to the cost - other than the free poker!

While some people have asked about an ash pan and we told them we could make one, not ONE SINGLE PERSON has ever said to go ahead and do it after they have received their furnace and used it.

There is very little fine ash - unlike some models with lots of ash and chunks of wood, particularly the ones without a forced air fan. A 5 gallon bucket of ash a month, is about right (depending on the wood you burn).

Remember, the pan holds a LOT of ash, so cleaning it once a week is fine - about a quart worth. Some people admit to going 2 weeks.

Remember to turn of the fan so you don't get ash blown in your face!

As soon as things slow down a little, we will be putting temperature gauges on the furnaces. A sight glass is so unnecessary when all you have to do is open the valve at the front and when water comes out of the overflow you're fine! A sight glass full of water can freeze...

Do not thread one into the overflow tube or you may inadvertently pressurize your unit because no steam can escape.

Best regards,

Ben

Not even sure Ben is still working but hopefully Shaver furnace will answer this albeit an old thread. There was a discussion about the overflow tube and putting on a short elbow to help stop the water usage. General consensus was that a short ( not higher than the stupid fill contraption in the rear ) elbow wouldn't pressurize the unit that would compromise the safety of the unit. What is Shavers position on this ?

ngz

 

[J.Gordon]

You need to seal it with high temp silicone.

I need to get a hoe and a good shovel (to fit in the ash pan). I can barely lift, never mind use, that crazy poker tool they give you.

I used clear silicon and don't have any problems! The last tube I bought cost $4.95 and rated at 400 degrees.

I just bought a couple of tubes of 3M FB 136 fire block sealant at Lowe's for a little under $7.00 a tube.
It is rated at 1380 degrees.
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediaw...SeSSSSSS--&fn=3MFireBlockFB136_PDS_4327-6.pdf

It sure beats the heck out of the $4.95 for a small tube of Red RTV.