best 50 cc chainsaw,,, is mine

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DOL51CUTIT

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2018
Messages
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Location
Alberta
Oldie newbie, who has been doing some reading here. Just wanted to come on and express some thanks, because I bought a saw based on comments here. We are in the process of finishing a cabin getaway, on a 40% treed 1/4 section, that has 3 wood stoves. 2 oldie goldies outside under a covered patio hanging off the cabin, where we love to hang out and one for winter heat inside, along with the fire pit. I knew my lil old stihl 170 wasn't going to keep up, to the beer and burning that we will do year around. I must admit I have beat that little thing up pretty good for 12 years, and it still runs great

I did what every other know nothing does and googled up best 50 cc chainsaw. I loved many of the oh no here we go comments from the past on the what's the best, but it also put a bit of info in my old skull.

I wanted pro grade or very close. I was going to buy the PS-241 for the price, at $369 can, $285 usd, less then the Stihl 250 here on sale, and over $300 less then the Stihl 241. i ended up buying a 5105h, ( heated, don't know if i will use that, but I am in Alberta) for $489 Canadian, $378 USD, which was hundreds less then the stihl or the husky, without heat. The dealer bought a large package of both the 241, and the 5105.

He sells husqvarna and echo as well, and the Dolmer kept pace with the other 2 because of the price he could buy, and sell them at, and the quality reviews on them.

Again thanks for some candid info. i think I'm gonna like the lil Dolmar beast, and the Scotish that i am is going to love saving some money. For our use the kids should like it too for quite some time, when they finally let the old man just sit back and watch.
 
Well, you made a great choice. Any of the Dolmar product line is good stuff, but the 5105 is a pro saw and it has features you will definitely learn to appreciate, and probably love. The anti-vibe is great, the ergonomic handle feels good in the hand, the easy start is soooo easy, awesome fuel efficiency and power to weight is right on. Nice price you got there too.

As many will tell you, keep it sharp, drain the gas when you're not using it and check/clean the air filter often.

Many happy cuts...

:cheers:
 
Well, you made a great choice. Any of the Dolmar product line is good stuff, but the 5105 is a pro saw and it has features you will definitely learn to appreciate, and probably love. The anti-vibe is great, the ergonomic handle feels good in the hand, the easy start is soooo easy, awesome fuel efficiency and power to weight is right on. Nice price you got there too.

As many will tell you, keep it sharp, drain the gas when you're not using it and check/clean the air filter often.

Many happy cuts...

:cheers:
If he diddn't do it get your dealer to check/adjust the mix the ones Ive dealt with have come lean/very lean from the factory. Enjoy
 
The dealer did set it up. They called the tech up for a minute when I was buying. I told him I would prefer a tad rich , then a tad lean. He understood perfectly I think. He said don't worry this thing won't be running hot and dry, we don't have time to be rebuilding more burnt out equipment, because of regulation stupidity. He went on about all the extra cost to the environment, and pocket books involved with premature breakdown. I liked this guy.

The family has had this 1/4, backing right on to 72 quarters of rarely used public land, since 1979, so we have cut a bit of firewood, usually only recreational burning in the late spring, summer, and early fall only, because we slept in 4 nice but old trailers, without much heat that I picked up when in the RV business. Now we'll be burning year round. When I bought my stihl the " mini monster", I listened real well to the guy who sold it to me. The sharp chain was always a no brainer, with our oldies, but he gave me the same good maintenance advice Alf. I think that's why mini did much more then it was ever designed for, and still fires right up, every time I pull it out. It's never seen a shop from the time I got it, and I've only changed the plug once, and I may not have needed to. I have always run it very slightly on the rich mix side, and empty it out, then run it till it stops before i store it. I only use Shell non ethanol and premium oil in everything.

My pops had a little 6 truck long haul company. His motto was good lubricity, is the key to longevity. It was pounded into my head, and something that many people just don't seem to understand. Friction = heat = wear= breakdown, even at low rpm, but especially true at 10,000 + rpm. I'm pounding the same thing into my boys. Someone has to keep all the service shops in business. Just not me. Ha

Yup I'm kinda like the kid with the new toy considering the price, and quality. If I hadn't come on here, I wouldn't have had a clue about, bad, good, and real good, and probably would have bought less saw for more money. I'll deal with the slight extra weight compared to the other 2, while I'm smiling about saving money. I know what I know better then most, but what I don't know, I don't know. Many of the sarcastic ones on various forums might try to understand when people ask about what's the best, they are really looking for informed opinions. ( most of the time, ha) Me I get a chuckle out of the sarcasm, cuz I'm a bit sarcastic myself. I really get a laugh from the gun/and hunting forums, and that is something I know a bit about. If anyone ever wants an education on diminishing returns, and paying 3-5 x more for 5-10 % better, hunting, fishing and general outdoors is the place to learn. I try to buy good quality everything, but am never brand loyal, and always try to cut thru the hype.

I might buy 2 more of these saws and give them to 2 neighbor friends, who have taken us city slickers under their wings for years, and have showed up to help when ever we have needed. When they have brought in equipment, I have tried to pay them at least something, but other then for a bit of fuel, they would never take a dime. They both heat shops and houses with wood, and propane when needed. I think this might be my chance for some payback.

Sorry for the babble, but I know this saw is going to save a ton of time and effort, for many years. Kinda puts a smile on me.
 
With all my yakking, I forgot to ask a question I have. I have no clue where to start with the adjustable bar oil, never had it before, and not sure how to find the sweat spot.
Any help would be appreciated.

Gord
 
Sorry,, one more thing. i was also thinking of getting one carbide chain to only use when lots of cutting is happening, with lots of hands on deck, and a bit of dirt might come into play. Also a few standing burnt trees need to come down. I know extra care is needed for maintenance with the dust from the burnt stuff, but that will only be a couple here and there, and I may not even buck them up if they are going to cause havoc on the saw. I just don't want them falling on family, or friends. We had a fire come thru a couple years ago, in an area where kids quad, and hayride trail is.

Is one carbide worth buying, for long term, and if so which is the best?
 
Have you looked into the price of a carbide chain? They are price prohibitive in the long run, needing special tooling to sharpen and maintain, let alone the initial cost. I’m thinking you could buy 3 stock chains for the cost of 1 carbide loop. ( just a guess, but probably close ) I like to have a couple of spare chains on hand anytime I go out in the woods, along with at least 1 spare saw, lord knows when you need it most, your saw won’t start! I know a tree guy that doesn’t even take a fuel can with him, when his runs out of fuel, he just grabs another saw, and continues to work.:cool:
 
I haven't used all brands of 50cc saw, but all around the 51xx is my favorite. The A/V is the best, and it has enough torque to spin a 20" bar satisfactorily. It gives up some in other areas but they are things that don't concern me.
 
The screw his buried a bit. How many turns from full shut? thx

It doesn't typically move turns, its more like 120-140 degrees of rotation. On the bottom of the saw, you'll see the arrow indicating something similar to a volume knob on a stereo. At one stop is full closed and the other full open. Set it about half way and run the saw on top of some cardboard. You should get a visible spray collecting on the cardboard for the entire length of the bar and some spraying forward from the tip. Every time you run the saw, its good habit to hold it close to wood or the ground and make sure you visibly see oil spray before cutting.
 
When I’m gassing up, I like the oil tank to be as close to empty as the fuel tank, most saws will still have a 1/2 full oil tank when the fuel runs dry.:cool:

It doesn't take much for these Dolmars. Especially if you are running a 16" bar/chain. A little adjustment goes a long way. One of the guys on here told me to set mine to max and let it rip, but I would do the opposite and run out of oil before gas if that were the case. :crazy2::crazy2:
 
Carbide chain is expensive. If you want to run it go ahead, but what I do is keep an extra regular chain or two with me. And I typically run Stihl chains as those seem to do the best and in all the reviews online they are constantly #1 and if they are not ranked at #1 in the review the reason given is usually not consequential to operating the saw.

If you were planning on doing demolition work with it, then yes I’d say run a car I’d chain, and get one that is specifically for demolition. Because you would be ripping through nails and other junk.

If you are going to be doing a lot of cutting, and there is a concern of getting it in the dirt, then my advice would be to take your time. Be extra careful to not get it the dirt and be safe, and you will find that you actually cut faster then if you had a “bullet proof” chain on it and let ‘er rip. You’ll also have less “minor” accidents.(Ones that don’t require a bandage or some sort of in house treatment.)
 
I think my Makita 520i is about the same size. I run an 18" bar with 0.325" pitch chain. It seems to run very smooth and is a pleasure to use. It always starts and seldom if ever bogs down. It pooped a little bar oil when I first got it (used of course) but I fixed that. There is a whole thread here devoted to that issue, so you may want to look it up if it ever starts to drip oil while at rest.

I rate the 520i about dead even with my Stihl 026 PRO and beating either one is not easy unless you have money to burn.
 
Good info thanks, I will start at 1/2 oil flow and tweak it. I thought the carbide chain was too pricey, and I did a little more reading after I posted, then grizz, and Aaron confirmed. I can buy 7 to 8 chains for the price of one up here, I think 4 will do just fine. I have 2 and now 2 more to buy. I won't say I can sharpen with the best, but I'm fairly decent at it. There is a local shop 2 miles from home that does a great job on them too for $10, that's $7.50 for yall down south. These guys will sharpen the carbide, but ouch Now I have 2 saws, I always worried about pinching my mini so I was really careful, and still jammed it up a few times. Good thing I had a spare bar.

Another question, the air filter is just a really fine mesh, should there be some factory foam pieces that come with it too?

FYI, the 261, and 550xp with heat, are both pushing $850 here, and I think the 5105h, for $489 Canadian will hold it's own against either quite well.

For those that read my other drool. I am going to buy one of these saws for each of my 2 neighbor buddies, before they are gone, and re badged to makita, and price hiked. I have wondered a bunch of times how I can pay them back somehow, for all the help they have given us. This is it, they both cut a lot. The price of a saw won't come close but I think they will like it, after they give me s--t of course.
 
I learned over the years, that it's easier, less time consuming, and more fun with a sharp chain. I am going to buy a few more back up parts, I'll add a flocked filter, and use the mesh for a back up. Any recomendations for a 18" 3/8 bar.
 

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