Can you explain to all of us why you want or must have a 3/8" pitch chain with this saw? In MHO, a .325" pitch bar and chain will be a better option for a saw of this size. I doubt that few here would disagree.
best 50 cc chainsaw,,, is mine
- Thread starter DOL51CUTIT
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cuinrearview
Red saw lover
If your budget allows
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
I guess I'm in the few. The AV is smooth enough and these saws are strong enough to take advantage of less cutters to sharpen and the longer intervals between sharpenings.
DOL51CUTIT
ArboristSite Member
No actually I can't explain that. This dealer bought a bunch, and all are set up for 3/8. All come with 3/8 18" bar out the door standard. I wanted .325, but of course there is an up-charge. I argued it, didn't get anywhere then left it. I'm sure that was the package deal when he bought, as I'm guessing the .325 out sold the 3/8, and the 3/8 was left over. I might still change it out before I do any cutting, but am really not sure if the difference is going to knock 25 to 30% from the cut time. I'm not selling firewood, but will burn 8 to 10 cords a year so a second a cut wont bother me too much but if it is 25 to 30 %. I think I might change anyway for the long haul.
Been reading on that too, and there seems to be some mixed opinions, but more for the .325
Been reading on that too, and there seems to be some mixed opinions, but more for the .325
DOL51CUTIT
ArboristSite Member
I don't mind the longer intervals between sharpening. Never knew that. As I wrote before "what i don't know I don't know" and I don't mind admitting it, and asking, Can I handle a saw? Yup and not to bad. I have been dropping trees and doing the firewood thing for a lot of years. Did I learn, and do I really know anything about the intricacies of a saw? Nope,,, and I'm grateful to learn.
DOL51CUTIT
ArboristSite Member
Thanks C u, but I think that bar might be a tad over budget. lol
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
Shorter bars and narrower chains will almost always be faster and smoother. I've run .325 on every other 50cc class saw I've had, including the unbeatable, unstoppable 346xp. I agree that this size saw is better off with that pitch, I just think that these Dolmars are the exception
Just go cut a bunch of wood with your new saw and then you will sort things out and know what specific questions to ask the forums should you have any. Hands on experience works well.
DOL51CUTIT
ArboristSite Member
Thanks for the advice CR, but I think I just might ask a few more questions, and get some feed back, from anyone who might want to tell me from experience. Dang that's what I thought forums were for. Discussion, and Q & A.
I'm going to set up 3 of these, and wouldn't mind getting it at least close to the end result, before any cutting, which starts next week while the ground here is still frozen, and we're not working in mud.
I think by asking I might have already saved a couple $ hundred, because I'm thinking, everyone might be happier if I switch to .325, while new, instead of used with no exchange, after reading and hearing a few responses on that subject.
I'm going to set up 3 of these, and wouldn't mind getting it at least close to the end result, before any cutting, which starts next week while the ground here is still frozen, and we're not working in mud.
I think by asking I might have already saved a couple $ hundred, because I'm thinking, everyone might be happier if I switch to .325, while new, instead of used with no exchange, after reading and hearing a few responses on that subject.
AlfA01
ArboristSite Guru
I tend to agree. I prefer the .325 chain, especially as others have said with a good bar (Tsumura, etc.), but since you already have it and the dealer doesn't want to work with you, use it! You may find it preferable to you. If you make the change in the future, pay attention to the bar tip that you choose. A larger tip bar on these saws (11-tooth for example) will be less prone to throwing chains when in a bind than a 9-tooth.
Edit: I mean bar sprocket, not drive sprocket (totally different topic). Some folks get them confused when we are discussing here.
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
Depends on bar size set about half way with 16/18" bar run a tank of fuel to almost or empty, oil tank if the same you are in the ball parkI'm not a lover of some modern saws they are way to "stingy" with oiling the chain it's some what "suck it & see" as to the wood you are cutting ,bar length, & personal preference for the oil amount
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
Having used Tsumura, Sugihara, Cannon & Total bars there is very little difference in wear, quality which ever brand you can get cheapest is the best buy in our logging set up we use "Sugi"s as we get them for the best price
I've put hundreds of hours on 50cc pro saws using both .325 & 3/8. Tsumara bars, Windsor, Sugi solid, Sugi light, laminated Stihl, solid Stihl, Stihl light etc etc. There are good arguments for both pitches but YOUR conditions & the wood YOU are cutting and how well YOU can maintain chain will affect the outcome most. Are you bucking, limbing do you need a smoother .325 setup for more precise cuts. Get what I'm saying, go cut wood & find out for yourself what is or what's not working and then ask some specific questions that will assist your situation.
Tree Feller
J &J Tree Service
I run 3/8 on mine with a Oregon 18" bar which uses 64 drive links so its really like a 17"? Anyway I see no reason to run .325 of these saws. It handles the 3/8 just fine and all of my chains on all of my saws are the same so I use one file size. I switched it over for a while but came back to the 3/8, seems to stay sharp longer?
Cycledude
ArboristSite Operative
Congratulations on your new saw ! To me it sounds like your dealer tech should have already set up your saws Oiler properly, I recommend you at least try his setting before making any changes.
DOL51CUTIT
ArboristSite Member
Thanks all. I really am a novice when it comes to the dynamics of a saw. I have cut with a few different saws over the years, and got pretty good at sharpening. I know for a 50cc this thing is going to have some grunt. Compared to my mini monster 170, lots of grunt, and now I'm going to be cutting a lot more wood. I want to be safe and enjoy, which is part of the reason for many of my questions. I never had chaps before but they are on the menu as well as good gloves. All i used before was a helmet with shield and muffs, steel toe boots, and regular work gloves. I am cutting softer to mid density stuff, poplar, birch, spruce, pine, tamarack, and not real hardwoods. I think I should be ok with the 3/8 set up.
Cycle, the dealer is pretty good so I'm thinking your right on the bar oil. Never could adjust before, and I wanted to hear from those that know.
I ran my 170 between 40, and always under 50/1 from day one, and it has been great with a richer mix. I usually run it a bit closer to 40 when I know it's going to put in some real hours. I am not a fan of any lean running 2 stroke, just like I'm not a fan of ethanol junk. Am I ok to run the 5105 a bit rich?
I don't have a clue how they say ethanol is better for the environment, (hogwash) when it takes more then a gallon worth of gas equivalent to produce a gallon of ethanol, and more energy to produce, sell and install more parts in everything, due to breakdowns. Ethanol had to come from massive politician lobbying, and payoffs everywhere. That crap wrecks everything that burns gas, if it's used long enough.
When I haul my boat up north for fishing, every truck that is in the convoy has jerry cans of shell premium in them. My buddies always give me a hard time. I always tell them to take their own boat. Oh ya most of them don't have a boat. End of discussion. Ha
Cycle, the dealer is pretty good so I'm thinking your right on the bar oil. Never could adjust before, and I wanted to hear from those that know.
I ran my 170 between 40, and always under 50/1 from day one, and it has been great with a richer mix. I usually run it a bit closer to 40 when I know it's going to put in some real hours. I am not a fan of any lean running 2 stroke, just like I'm not a fan of ethanol junk. Am I ok to run the 5105 a bit rich?
I don't have a clue how they say ethanol is better for the environment, (hogwash) when it takes more then a gallon worth of gas equivalent to produce a gallon of ethanol, and more energy to produce, sell and install more parts in everything, due to breakdowns. Ethanol had to come from massive politician lobbying, and payoffs everywhere. That crap wrecks everything that burns gas, if it's used long enough.
When I haul my boat up north for fishing, every truck that is in the convoy has jerry cans of shell premium in them. My buddies always give me a hard time. I always tell them to take their own boat. Oh ya most of them don't have a boat. End of discussion. Ha
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
If I could get heated 5105s for that price I'd probably supply the neighborhood too.
DOL51CUTIT
ArboristSite Member
Kinda funny cuinrear, and also thanks for your impute. Not going to supply the neighborhood, just 2 families who have done so much for us over the years, that a couple chainsaws won't even come close.
One thing that has kept coming to mind to me is that makita is screwing up. I know they know their stuff when it comers to marketing, but for them to be getting rid of the Dolmar name just seems crazy. The Dolmar brand is incredibly well respected, even with the die hard stihl, and husq people. Makita has the power to move the brand forward. The deal I am getting makes it obvious that Dolmar, as a brand is on the way out. They want to blow out the remaining Dolmar. I think the future makita at homedepot is going to backfire. They are in such a great position to further the Dolmar brand as echo has done well, even tho I personally think they are fine but pound for pound not what a Dolmar is. If they did a proper job supporting servicing dealers under Dolmar, and kept makita at the box stores, they could have a 1-2 punch many would envy.
What keeps coming to mind is the 241 vs the stihl 250 for more money, and makita could sell it, and others under 2 different badges. Many will buy from a box store, then screw around if they need service, many won't. I am in the latter category.
One thing that has kept coming to mind to me is that makita is screwing up. I know they know their stuff when it comers to marketing, but for them to be getting rid of the Dolmar name just seems crazy. The Dolmar brand is incredibly well respected, even with the die hard stihl, and husq people. Makita has the power to move the brand forward. The deal I am getting makes it obvious that Dolmar, as a brand is on the way out. They want to blow out the remaining Dolmar. I think the future makita at homedepot is going to backfire. They are in such a great position to further the Dolmar brand as echo has done well, even tho I personally think they are fine but pound for pound not what a Dolmar is. If they did a proper job supporting servicing dealers under Dolmar, and kept makita at the box stores, they could have a 1-2 punch many would envy.
What keeps coming to mind is the 241 vs the stihl 250 for more money, and makita could sell it, and others under 2 different badges. Many will buy from a box store, then screw around if they need service, many won't. I am in the latter category.
AlfA01
ArboristSite Guru
From what I'm hearing, Jonsered is going through some changes that just don't make sense to me also. I'm not sure what Husqvarna is up to by getting rid of the J'Reds. I've heard rumors they will be rebranded Red Max's, but not sure about the details.
Many years ago, I remember hearing about Dolmars, but never saw one. It was kind of like Pegasus or Sasquatch back then. Everyone had Stihl, Husqvarna, McCulloch and Homelites. Since that time, it really seems that the Dolmar brand has garnered a lot of respect, loyal supporters and owners, myself included. I have a Makita and a Maruyama, but my big Dolmar 7910 is my favorite saw I've ever owned. Its not the one I use the most, but I love it the most. Hate to see the Dolmar brand go.
I've heard that in Germany, they will still produce Dolmar branded saws. Maybe I can order them to Greece also.
DOL51CUTIT
ArboristSite Member
I think that with makita marketing ability and a little effort the Dolmar name could step up a lot. It seems that those who know, have a respect for them, whether they are their favorite or not.
The dealer here sold the package he bought of 421s, and 5105s pretty fast. The 421s are gone. He had 4 of the 5105s, when I bought mine the other day. I got the last 5105 he had for one friend, and there is one more that he can get,,,, but,,,, it is a 2012, that wasn't sold, and nobody paid attention to it. When he called to see if he could get more the guy said no. Then the guy called him back a few hours later about this one and he called me. I know it's the one with the epoxy on the H adjustment, but he will clean it out for me if I want it, and told me that it would be gone over and without issue.
Is there any problems anyone knows of with the carb on the 2012, or was it just environmental stuff that forced the epoxy on that year?
Also would there be any problems internally from sitting?
I know that lots of motorized products can sit at a suppliers, or dealers for a long time before sold, sometimes a few years, but is there such a thing as too long?
The 2 year warranty applies, and it is hard to beat the price of these, but if it will probably be a dog, I'm going to pass, and one guy will have to do with a mid saw lol.
The dealer here sold the package he bought of 421s, and 5105s pretty fast. The 421s are gone. He had 4 of the 5105s, when I bought mine the other day. I got the last 5105 he had for one friend, and there is one more that he can get,,,, but,,,, it is a 2012, that wasn't sold, and nobody paid attention to it. When he called to see if he could get more the guy said no. Then the guy called him back a few hours later about this one and he called me. I know it's the one with the epoxy on the H adjustment, but he will clean it out for me if I want it, and told me that it would be gone over and without issue.
Is there any problems anyone knows of with the carb on the 2012, or was it just environmental stuff that forced the epoxy on that year?
Also would there be any problems internally from sitting?
I know that lots of motorized products can sit at a suppliers, or dealers for a long time before sold, sometimes a few years, but is there such a thing as too long?
The 2 year warranty applies, and it is hard to beat the price of these, but if it will probably be a dog, I'm going to pass, and one guy will have to do with a mid saw lol.
