tickhound93
ArboristSite Guru
I definitely second or third or twelfth the hand file. However I use my grinder to reset angles in between fe sharpenings
best saw chain sharpener ??
- Thread starter Northcentralyooper
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Everybody has to find something that works for them. If you understand what you are tying to accomplish, it helps you to choose how you get there. In other words, a file won't sharpen a cutter by itself. Nor will a grinder, or a Dremel tool, etc. Any of these can be used to make a chain worse, or to accurately file the wrong angles. But if you understand how they work, the guides can help you get the cutter shapes and angles you want.
- The basic flat, file guides (Post #9, above) work with all chains. They are specific to the size of the file. They hold the file at the correct depth, and help the user maintain a desired top plate angle. They should only be used at a zero degree 'down angle'.
- The Husqvarna roller guides work on some chains, but not all. They position the files from below, and help the user maintain a desired top plate angle. The 'down angle' is built in.
- The Granberg type file guides (many brands) clamp on to the guide bar and let the user dial in the file depth, top plate angle, and down angle. They take a little longer to set up, but give precise, consistent results. They work will all (round filed) chains.
Philbert
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Very true, honey is honey sweet, however the hiving. Filing a wood dull is not about moving metal.
Frank Savage
ArboristSite Operative
The most accurate and versatile is trained hand with a file. Wish I have one, so far I can sharpen left hands cutters scary sharp and sometimes even fast, but with right hand cutters I struggle a bit. If you have similar problem, stay calm-it is called learning curve. Southpaws have it the other way usualy.
I´ve settled for file for sharpening and touching up in the field and grinder for repairing abused chains or setting my own grinds for different conditions. Because setting the edge back even 1/32 on 82 or more DL with a file gets old pretty fast, not mentioning you waste at least one file on it, or two if you are in a time press-so the grinder pays for itself soon.
If the saw is more of a hobby for ya, make it that you have a bit time dedicated to filing only-so you can play with it and don´t feel wasting time and production. Try to throw away all guides, except sth like magnetic plate with angles-since they are toughest to get used to hold constantly. And focus not on what you can see (except the top plate angle), but what you feel in the filing hand. Place finger atop of the cutter you are filling, to get initial insight about the depth and having the file level/with downangle. Once you get used to the concept of using vision for the top plate angle only and do all other by feel, you win.
Having the bar in a vice (table or stump one) speeds things alot. If you can clamp the chain between 1"x1/2", 1 ft iron bars in the table vice, it is best for the begining-you want the least slop in the chain you can have, because initialy you don´t have the experience to feel how the slop alters the geometry. I realy recomend starting with the table vice trick, it will teach you fast.
Then you can do such things like starting the stroke too low and about halfway gradualy pull up, ending too high with a lil bit of downangle-this is an easy receipt for pretty durable edge, given how fast such a chain can cut
I´ve settled for file for sharpening and touching up in the field and grinder for repairing abused chains or setting my own grinds for different conditions. Because setting the edge back even 1/32 on 82 or more DL with a file gets old pretty fast, not mentioning you waste at least one file on it, or two if you are in a time press-so the grinder pays for itself soon.
If the saw is more of a hobby for ya, make it that you have a bit time dedicated to filing only-so you can play with it and don´t feel wasting time and production. Try to throw away all guides, except sth like magnetic plate with angles-since they are toughest to get used to hold constantly. And focus not on what you can see (except the top plate angle), but what you feel in the filing hand. Place finger atop of the cutter you are filling, to get initial insight about the depth and having the file level/with downangle. Once you get used to the concept of using vision for the top plate angle only and do all other by feel, you win.
Having the bar in a vice (table or stump one) speeds things alot. If you can clamp the chain between 1"x1/2", 1 ft iron bars in the table vice, it is best for the begining-you want the least slop in the chain you can have, because initialy you don´t have the experience to feel how the slop alters the geometry. I realy recomend starting with the table vice trick, it will teach you fast.
Then you can do such things like starting the stroke too low and about halfway gradualy pull up, ending too high with a lil bit of downangle-this is an easy receipt for pretty durable edge, given how fast such a chain can cut
KG441c
Keith
dogdad
ArboristSite Operative
What pencil grinder is that in the pic?
KG441c
Keith
241c and a bad one!!lol!!
dogdad
ArboristSite Operative
I'm thinking about getting one , but don't want to spend $$$$$$$$ on it...also trying to figure out how big of a compressor is needed to run one...my small compressor may not fit the bill.
Sagetown
Farmer and a STIHL
Single Cut Round Files make fine edges. Double Cut Files re-shape the teeth quickly.
KG441c
Keith
Which files are which in brand ?
I use Oregon file holders for the smaller chains (3/8 LP and .325) and Stihl file holders for the larger ones (3/8 and .404)
I have seen some machine-filed chains beyond repair... mostly burned up. Filing by hand takes some practice but will guarantee best results - and can be done in the field with the chain on the bar.
I have seen some machine-filed chains beyond repair... mostly burned up. Filing by hand takes some practice but will guarantee best results - and can be done in the field with the chain on the bar.
KG441c
Keith
Oh no if u r referring to the grinder its an electric flexshaft foredom handheld grinder
c5rulz
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well since everybody is posting pics.
Silvey 510 for 3/8ths and .404, Oregon 511AX in center for .325 and Nielsen for rakers, (works incredibly well for this task, very fast and accurate)
Note, lots of LIGHT!
Silvey 510 for 3/8ths and .404, Oregon 511AX in center for .325 and Nielsen for rakers, (works incredibly well for this task, very fast and accurate)
Note, lots of LIGHT!
fearofpavement
Trying them all
I've said it on other threads in the past, but it is essential that you have an understanding of what you are trying to accomplish to get good results with any tools (manual or electric). Some people struggle with hand filing and think a powered grinder will solve the problems. It likely won't. A piece of brand new chain next to your sharpening setup can be a useful tool so you have a goal in mind. ie, make it look like that...
Something to take notice is which file you are using.
Keeping the file clean while sharpening helps,
A tap or rap On the tip not the abrasive part every once in a while helps.
Bar oil on the chain can be aggravating
c5rulz
Addicted to ArboristSite
I would agree with that.
However hand sharpening on chains with angles correct makes a real sharp chain. Raker height and contour can't be stressed to achieve a self feeding chain.
Been Years and years but I remember doing that.
VERY good point for especially for a beginner.
sunfish
Fish Head
I bought a grinder a while back and love it, but only use it to straighten out messed up chains. Still prefer to sharpen with a file.
Latest posts
-
-
-
-
-
-
Stihl FS-130z Trimmer C1Q-S173 Carburetor Settings
- Latest: Huskyvarnya Saws
-
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)- Latest: MustangMike
-
