Best way to get branches/rounds up off the ground?

[Emt1581]

I used my 550XP for the first time today. AMAZING saw!!! Went through 6-8" thick branches and rounds like a hot knife through butter!!

However, to reduce bending over, save my back and not be flipping pieces around to avoid cutting into the ground I'd like to know the most efficient way to get the rounds and branches up off the ground?

Thanks

-Emt1581

 

[Shanen Mannies]

Get a longer bar or us a log jack.

 

[thumbilly]

Well my personal choice is a new holland ls170 with McLaren OTT tracks and a virnig grapple bucket but that's just me.

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[Emt1581]

Get a longer bar or us a log jack.

Yeah that seems like it'd work. Are they all the same or are there brands known for quality?

Thanks

-Emt1581

 

[Shanen Mannies]

I use a 28" Oregon bar to save on my back and the price of bar and chain, you will learn very quickly to keep it up out of the dirt. My log jack is home made, but works great for 6"and up

 

[Sandhill Crane]

I've never had much luck with a log jack. I found the foot just pushed in the ground more often then not. I used a peevy most, followed by can't hook as second choice. Cut 3/4 or 2/3rds on several cuts, and roll the log. End up sharpening more often no matter how careful you are. My preference is to cut a bit, and load the stuff up, keeping the work area clear. It gives the back a break. I use a light saw, an 021, up to six or eight inches if it is on the ground. Keep it sharp, and wear chaps. No 'easy' way really. I use to do some small stuff on a cut table, but hand loading was added labor. For me that was easier on the back however. Now, I still use the cut table, but load it with a forklift.

 

[woodfarmer]

try to get a round under the middle like a see-saw

 

[cantoo]

Buzz saw works for me. Some of these were 10 to 12" dia.

 

[Woody912]

I used my 550XP for the first time today. AMAZING saw!!! Went through 6-8" thick branches and rounds like a hot knife through butter!!

However, to reduce bending over, save my back and not be flipping pieces around to avoid cutting into the ground I'd like to know the most efficient way to get the rounds and branches up off the ground?

Thanks

-Emt1581

I leave one limb on to the end so I can use it as a lever to roll log over then drive a plastic wedge into log to force it up off the ground. And I cut on my knees a lot, 3 herniated discs make ya do funny things

 

[Brushwacker]

I used my 550XP for the first time today. AMAZING saw!!! Went through 6-8" thick branches and rounds like a hot knife through butter!!

However, to reduce bending over, save my back and not be flipping pieces around to avoid cutting into the ground I'd like to know the most efficient way to get the rounds and branches up off the ground?

Thanks

-Emt1581

Personally me , the small Husky's with 18" and less bar seem to disturb my back more then most. The angle on Stihl and many others seems to position the saw more in front of me giving more forward reach with a straighter back and more even side to side reach for less and more even back twisting. Walking into brushy oak treetops to make 16" wood isn't easy repositioning the feet for each cut, I like to make as many cuts as I can comfortably with no to little foot movement then move and make more cuts. 20 to 24" bars work best for me on saws big enough to handle them. I can stand just about straight up and easily keep from getting in the ground.Usually if the log is touching the ground I don't cut all the way through. Where there is bends in the log or uneven ground, ground clearance allows the blade to cut through above the ground in spots, then roll over what is behind you, (Usually is a push with a foot) to finish the cuts that you didn't go through. If you can cut very near to the bark without going through some times a push of the foot is enough to brake it off without having to put the blade back to it. Keep your chains very sharp, a chain that cuts 30% slower means 30% more time in bent positions.

 

[thumbilly]

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[Relex]

I use a 28" Oregon bar to save on my back and the price of bar and chain, you will learn very quickly to keep it up out of the dirt. My log jack is home made, but works great for 6"and up

I have a buddy who's bar of choice is a 24" and he says it saves him a lot of bending over as well.

 

[BenK]

What about a log roller/cant hook?

 

[hayboy]

Careful of the sawdust my wife said.

 

[Emt1581]

What about a log roller/cant hook?

This is what I'm leaning toward. I've seen some that have a spike on the end instead of a stand....what's the spike for?

Thanks

-Emt1581

 

[BenK]

This is what I'm leaning toward. I've seen some that have a spike on the end instead of a stand....what's the spike for?

Thanks

-Emt1581

Zombies

 

[svk]

This is what I'm leaning toward. I've seen some that have a spike on the end instead of a stand....what's the spike for?

Thanks

-Emt1581

That's a Peavey. Peavy has a point, cant hook doesn't, log jack has a foot to lift the log higher when rolled.

 

[Emt1581]

That's a Peavey. Peavy has a point, cant hook doesn't, log jack has a foot to lift the log higher when rolled.

So what is the "point" for?

Thanks

-Emt1581

 

[Brushwacker]

So what is the "point" for?

Thanks

-Emt1581

Pretty sure it is designed for round logs and gives you a bigger bite also.
I think the cant hook was designed for turning square cants on the old sawmills even though they work well rolling logs.
I bought a LogRite all steel, the biggest they had from Bailys several years ago. It is a brute, if I had it over I'd got the aluminum version but I cant imagine breaking , bending the 1 I have unless you run it over with a big bulldozer or similar. The LogRite comes with peavy and cant points both interchange and a log jack can be had also. Mine has all 3, never used the log jack. I don't use it to roll often but it works very well for me when I have big logs or extremely large firewood rounds to roll, cut off stumps to move etc.. I have smaller wood handle cant hooks also and they don't get used often either, but if they are big enough for the job I;d rather be using 1 of them. If you want to carry them out to the job and use them for a jack I am sure they'd work fine, but once you get fine tuned to keeping out of the dirt with out 1 I think you work more efficient with your time with out taking the extra time to lift everything off the ground.

 

[svk]

So what is the "point" for?

Thanks

-Emt1581

Pushing logs around, like in a river