weenieroaster
ArboristSite Operative
Possibly the best builders are those with the most self discipline. Restraint is a much overlooked quality when it comes to making things, both applying to one's self, and the object at hand.
Possibly the best builders are those with the most self discipline. Restraint is a much overlooked quality when it comes to making things, both applying to one's self, and the object at hand.
so serg, you seem to be an expert.
i threw out the number of .020.
what do you think???? Is there a better number???
I see you talking in generalities, but not providing specific advice that someone could build towards.
help us out here, or live up to your name please.
........... so i guess you could decide for yourselves how much room to leave for expantion and such under full heat and rpm, but i bet you want to get that piston as close as you safely can when building a worksaw......
I know one thing- a difference of .010" in the squish of my 281 with the stock combustion chamber sure made it a lot harder to start.
weenieroaster said:Personally, I have not had any starting issues come up as a result of raising compression.
My tired old arms and hands complain anymore when forced to pull over a high compression engine. 15-18 years ago it was not a problem. I still like the performance of a high-compression motor so I'll just live with it.
Personally, I have not had any starting issues come up as a result of raising compression. I have found that low speed carb adjustments become more sensitive, in terms of the best position for idling and spool-up.....maybe starting. I think I might want to look for carb issues as the culprit, more than compression. I have read where other people have said this, higher compression=bad start, so I could be wrong.
Compression could be getting the bad rap for issues that are the result of other changes in the process of getting the higher compression. Common methods of jacking compression often result in too long intake duration and resulting lower base compression. Blowback from carb etc that makes carb adjustment harder for idle and make it difficult to get both good idle and midrange mixture (spoolup)
Referring to the leaking, it's just an assumption based upon a recent situation with a modded saw. I can't describe it with much definition, other than to say that the best idle setting was different from the best spool-up one, and the idle was uneven, chain wanted to very slowly jerk around with it. I did some pop-off adjustments, and the setting became more consistent, but along with it was a tendency to flood. I found that the needle seat was bad, and after replacing it, everything smoothed out, starting is better too. I just figured that being a modded saw was a factor, possibly more demand on the carb with regard to more finely tuned settings. Longer intake duration on the saw compared to stock.
How much dirt does it take to fill a three foot hole? :smoking:
3' deep or 3' diameter?
It's a yard either way, I studied holes in school.opcorn:
Later,
LOL, that was my best subject, next to beer drinking and puking
It's a yard either way, I studied holes in school.opcorn:
Later,
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