Black Walnut help please

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Redfin... That backbone looks great , can't wait to see the finished product.

Cedarheaven..Whats your board and Sikkens have to do with anything?
 
Sikkens is a preservative product which penetrates into the wood fibers rather than coating the piece with a varnish that will eventually yellow.
 
If you are finishing your walnut steps, pass on the sikkens and unless you are living in the 1800's skip the BLO. In this day and age there are numerous finishes that penetrate and provide protection for you wood, just do your homework and dont forget about the slip factor someone mentioned earlier.
G Vavra
 
You want the water/melted snow or whatever moisture to bead up on the surface of the hardwood (Black Walnut). I have used Black Walnut from the orchards here in Los Molinas, CA, for over 35 years, listening to your application of the walnut with outdoor use I still recommend the Sikkens...
 
These will not be used outdoors. They are between my first and second floor.
 
Tung oil and Boiled linseed oil are good the the purity is more important. I've had clients that put linseed oil on their barns and then complain that it turns gray. I've always wondered why people recommended it. I recently found a local guy thats making his own linseed oil and he says the problem is the stuff you buy in the store is full of proteins and it goes rancid. There is no regulation on the proteins in the oil and can still be called pure. I have a jug of pure tung oil that has separated and it is more full protein. I'm still experimenting with the purified linseed oil, but it's pretty nice so far. I wouldn't consider it a finish though. I'll post some pictures of that jug of oil later so you can see the proteins.

Edit: The one on the right is the purified linseed oil. The one on the right is the Pure Tung oil. DSCN7105.JPG
 
Heating up the Linseed Oil helps the fiber's (spring wood) absorb into the Walnut faster and at an even rate as not to discolor the wood from over saturating the piece. Whether or not you are using the Black Walnut for interior or exterior applications, a final coat over the Linseed or other preservative should have the effects like a varnish that's why again I suggest Sikkens. The Walnut growers who have gun-stock wood drying are now using Sikkens to protect the ends while air drying as it prevents any air & moisture from entering when stacked. The light (spring growth ring) is more absorbent than the denser darker (summer growth ring) which can cause an unevenness when staining. I don't advise staining Walnut as it contains some of the best grains in it's natural form...
 
Sorry I'm new to this or any forums and have not been working wood very long but I've used a product called Pentacryl to make cookies for clocks.I've done about 70 cookies and have had only 4 crack and that was from not letting them soak long enough. May be you could brush it on after being milled then let dry slowly. My cookies only took 4weeks to dry.(10"circle x 1 to 2"thick)
 
Its been awhile and my stress of whether the cad and my fab work was correct is done. My buddy and I placed the backbone today. I have less than 1/8" from plumb in all planes.

I can easily make up for these discrepencies by shimming my walnut slabs. I have been stressing about these stairs for awhile.
IMG-20150425-00896.jpg IMG-20150425-00899.jpg IMG-20150425-00897.jpg
 
Nothing new to report on the walnut other than I got my temporary treads on. I still need to throw the toe kicks on and some type of handrail to pass inspection. We are closing on our current house on the 30th of this month. I'm just about wrapped up with punch list to start moving things over here.
 
The contractor bid 750 for my garage steps which I thought was ridiculous. This is what I did today. I used the leftover poly decking from my front entrance. All the other lumber was left from the garage framing.IMG-20150606-00947.jpg
 
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