Bought a Fiskars splitter

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Freudor

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I am looking to pick up a super splitter also. The regular splitting axe is on it's way, but I will try Sears for a walk in purchase.

Does anyone have any suggestions for picking these up other than Sears if they are out? I will be shopping in southern Oregon.

Also looked at the Conrad splitter and Helko's Tomahawk line (almost bought one instead of the Fiskars), if anyone has any experience with these I would like to hear about it.
 
K7NUT

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I took the splitting axe and gave it about a 3' swing..blasted right through it! Couldn't believe it! Split a knotty piece that I had given up on with one wack!

Overall....VERY IMPRESSED!!!!

Careful though! When guys say these axes are sharp...they aren't kidding...you could shave with one of these!

Wow, I think I could use one of those myself!:)
 

Marc

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The handle length is just fine...

It isn't used like a regular splitting maul. You swing it overhead, not over your shoulder so you don't need/want a long handle.

Trust me...for $30...it is WELL worth it! I might go and get another one for a spare!

Eh?

I swing my 8 pound maul directly over head...

Edit- and I'm a relatively skinny guy- 5'11" 163 lbs
 
Orange Hill

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My local Stihl/Husky dealer has them for $90, so I hope the local Sears has them so I might save some coin. I have a hydraulic splitter, but there are some 24"+ rounds down in the trees that are too taxing to get out so I am splitting them with a Tru Temper that is ok, but could be better as it keeps bouncing out of a few of the more twisted rounds.
 
peterc38

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My local Stihl/Husky dealer has them for $90, so I hope the local Sears has them so I might save some coin. I have a hydraulic splitter, but there are some 24"+ rounds down in the trees that are too taxing to get out so I am splitting them with a Tru Temper that is ok, but could be better as it keeps bouncing out of a few of the more twisted rounds.

Are you saying they have the Fiskars super splitter for $90? If so, that is an incredible rip off and I sure would hate to buy a saw off them or something more expensive.

The highest price I have seen is about $55 at some hardware stores, but it can be found online for much cheaper $35ish.
 
TheGrunt

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cracked Head

I broke the handle part that went around the head and I found out it has a lifetime warranty, so I called Fiskars and told them it broke and they are sending me a new one without sending them the old one first. So they really stand behind what they sell. I would buy another one again that is for sure.
 
cjcocn

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Are you saying they have the Fiskars super splitter for $90? If so, that is an incredible rip off and I sure would hate to buy a saw off them or something more expensive.

The highest price I have seen is about $55 at some hardware stores, but it can be found online for much cheaper $35ish.

Only one local business carries a Fiskars ax. Not the Super Splitter, but the largest ax that they have - they want $90 or $99, I can't remember which .... and they wonder why people don't want to shop locally. :monkey:
 
clutch25

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Local Menards is up to the usual price of ~$40... I went in today to look for a brush axe and had full intentions of buying another Super Spliter. When they didn't have the brush axe...kind of took the wind out of my sails and I walked out empty handed.
 
flashy
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Was at a Sears store the other day and they had a 28" Fishars in the 'bargain bin' for $30. I got 'big eyed' because of the hype on this site and picked it up, fully expecting to be blown away. Didn't happen. Plastic is plastic. 2.2 lbs ain't 3.5 lbs. Left her lay. Physics tells me that my old Kelley Forge 3.5 lb ax, shapened to a shaving edge, will #####slap that plastic Fiskars all day long.
 
Philbert

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Was at a Sears store the other day and they had a 28" Fishars in the 'bargain bin' for $30. I got 'big eyed' because of the hype on this site and picked it up, fully expecting to be blown away. Didn't happen. Plastic is plastic. 2.2 lbs ain't 3.5 lbs. Left her lay. Physics tells me that my old Kelley Forge 3.5 lb ax, shapened to a shaving edge, will #####slap that plastic Fiskars all day long.

Take it back. "Satisfaction Guaranteed" written above every door at Sears.

Philbert
 
TreePointer

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Was at a Sears store the other day and they had a 28" Fishars in the 'bargain bin' for $30. I got 'big eyed' because of the hype on this site and picked it up, fully expecting to be blown away. Didn't happen. Plastic is plastic. 2.2 lbs ain't 3.5 lbs. Left her lay. Physics tells me that my old Kelley Forge 3.5 lb ax, shapened to a shaving edge, will #####slap that plastic Fiskars all day long.

There are two different 28" Fiskars Splitting Axes. I think you saw the Pro model and not the Super, which gets the rave reviews here. The head shapes and weights are very different. Handles are fiberglass composite.

Pro = 2.25 lbs.
Super = 4.25 lbs.

Fiskars Axes
 
chuckp

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I finally got to try my new Fiskar's super splitter today. It is really fantastic. I split up a dead oak and it split like poplar.
I can't believe that many times I just raised and dropped the head on the wood and it split.
A very good product. I'm glad I went for it.
 
bore_pig

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There are two different 28" Fiskars Splitting Axes. I think you saw the Pro model and not the Super, which gets the rave reviews here. The head shapes and weights are very different. Handles are fiberglass composite.

Pro = 2.25 lbs.
Super = 4.25 lbs.

:agree2:

I bought my super splitter a year ago. Rarely have I use the old 8lb maul since. I made one mod, I took hockey tape and wrapped the part of the handle that is colored orange. The darn thing would get slippery when my gloves were wet or covered in snow. I sharpen mine with a small file when necessary. Just a little touch up is all it usually needs.
 
WSJchester

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Interesting thread.

I bought one of the heavier Super Splitters late last fall and thought it pretty cool but absolutely no substitute for my 6-lb maul. It split dead & down red oak OK but for me just didn't drive on through the split like the maul. It worked great on maple, some mulberry and kindling.

It was clearanced at Sears, the price was right and I'm glad I bought it for its size and versitility, but it hasn't taken the place of my maul.

-WSJ
 
vwboomer

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I was splitting up the rest of my willow today. At some point I musta found a nail or something cuz when I put it away there was a ding in the edge :cry:

Does a fair job though. Cept for the rounds it kept bouncing off :dizzy:
 
The Discoverer

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DBowling, ankles and etc.

Gentlemen and Ladies of the board:

I'm a first time poster. Came here after googling for cedar kindling splitter. I have a ton or two of Western Red cedar from the neighbor's logging and I'm looking for some kind of machine that takes a small block of cedar and turns it into multiple pieces of kindling in one stroke. Objective is to sell it after it has dried over the summer. Hand splitting it is very low wage work. Anybody know of such a machine? I have a Yardman 25 Ton hydraulic log splitter (6 hp engine) which pretty well takes care of splitting the wood for the fireplace insert that heats the house. We use about four cords in a burning season. Maybe I have to find someone (inventive engineer) to create something that goes on the ram of the log splitter?

As for just missing the ankle, DBowling. For years I split by hand (maul and wedge) but my shoulders won't let me do that anymore, hence the splitter. However, I had a system that eliminated the picking up of the pieces. Read about it in the Seattle Times in an article about a guy who supplies all the alder for the restaurants that use that in their cooking.

You either build a very skookum platform about one foot high or find a very large tree round and use that (that's what I used because I have BIG trees around here. Some are four-feet in diameter. Very old Douglas fir and hemlock.) Get yourself a used tire or two with as big an internal hole as you can find. Drill three or four holes in the sidewall and use 20 penny or larger nails to anchor it to the tree round or platform. If you use two tires, you'll need to bolt them together through the adjoining sidewalls. I've done both.

Then you place the piece(s) to be split in the center and walk around the tire with your maul or this 'Fiskers' thing, which I don't know what it is, whacking away and splitting the size wood that you want. If you have a bunch of smaller diameter wood, putting four or five pieces of the same length, more or less, keeps them upright as you break them up and you don't hit the handle on the middle pieces. Eliminates picking up the split pieces and makes it much easier and safer because swing-throughs are stopped cold by the tire in a nice, easy bounce. Never broken a handle, either.

So, that's my contribution to those who are still splitting by hand. If someone knows of a multi-splitter for cedar kindling, kindly reply to [email protected].

Thank you,

The Discoverer
 
Nuzzy

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Gentlemen and Ladies of the board:

I'm a first time poster. Came here after googling for cedar kindling splitter. I have a ton or two of Western Red cedar from the neighbor's logging and I'm looking for some kind of machine that takes a small block of cedar and turns it into multiple pieces of kindling in one stroke. Objective is to sell it after it has dried over the summer. Hand splitting it is very low wage work. Anybody know of such a machine? I have a Yardman 25 Ton hydraulic log splitter (6 hp engine) which pretty well takes care of splitting the wood for the fireplace insert that heats the house. We use about four cords in a burning season. Maybe I have to find someone (inventive engineer) to create something that goes on the ram of the log splitter?

As for just missing the ankle, DBowling. For years I split by hand (maul and wedge) but my shoulders won't let me do that anymore, hence the splitter. However, I had a system that eliminated the picking up of the pieces. Read about it in the Seattle Times in an article about a guy who supplies all the alder for the restaurants that use that in their cooking.

You either build a very skookum platform about one foot high or find a very large tree round and use that (that's what I used because I have BIG trees around here. Some are four-feet in diameter. Very old Douglas fir and hemlock.) Get yourself a used tire or two with as big an internal hole as you can find. Drill three or four holes in the sidewall and use 20 penny or larger nails to anchor it to the tree round or platform. If you use two tires, you'll need to bolt them together through the adjoining sidewalls. I've done both.

Then you place the piece(s) to be split in the center and walk around the tire with your maul or this 'Fiskers' thing, which I don't know what it is, whacking away and splitting the size wood that you want. If you have a bunch of smaller diameter wood, putting four or five pieces of the same length, more or less, keeps them upright as you break them up and you don't hit the handle on the middle pieces. Eliminates picking up the split pieces and makes it much easier and safer because swing-throughs are stopped cold by the tire in a nice, easy bounce. Never broken a handle, either.

So, that's my contribution to those who are still splitting by hand. If someone knows of a multi-splitter for cedar kindling, kindly reply to [email protected].

Thank you,

The Discoverer


And THAT my friends is how you make a first post. :cool:

Welcome to the site! :cheers::clap:
 
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