Building a woodshed...

[SevenDeuce]

I scored a great deal the other day. A barn collapsed years ago apparently, and I saw it, and hunted down the owner and got permission to take what I wanted.

In safety's sake, I was only able to get the doors and 37 of the 2"x6"x16' rafter beams (there were 11 that I couldn't get, and I couldn't get the floor up without damaging it, so I left it)

I want to use this to build a woodshed.

I have a 20' beam that I did salvage, so that will be my back side attached to my wood garage.

So 10' up, 16' out to 9' for a 1' drop over 16'.

Anyone know how to figure the angle I need to cut the rafters?

Here's a pic of what I want to do.

Thanks!

Abe

 

[Adkpk]

Adirondack style woodshed

Maybe a little roof out over the front to protect you from the rain.

I just filled this up this weekend. Good luck.

 

[Mike Van]

Abe, 16' run on an almost flat 2x6 is a long, long, long run for a rafter. You could double them up, or shroten the run by moving your oustide wall in a few foot & making an overhang. Just my opinion. You get heavy wet snow there in Pa.? Anyway, that angle, do you have a framing square? You get it off that - On the outside marks, the long edge goes at 12", the shorter one at whatever you want your pitch to be - 2" per ft, set it at 2, draw a line - thats the angle. Or 4" pitch & so on. Play around with the square, lot easier to show someone in person, instead of online -

 

[SevenDeuce]

Much thanks, I do have a framing/rafter square, forgot about it!

That's a nice shed!

I have enough wood to do a big shed now, and just couldn't figure out that angle.

Thanks! Will show some progress pics along the way.

Abe

 

[reaperman]

I built my shed in the same manner that you are planning to do yours. The way I figured the angle was I nailed the rafter 2x6 to the front and back posts, at the desired slope. Then I simply took a level and drew a strait vertical line on the 2x6 rafter boards and snipped off the excess to make the correct angle and length. I'm no carpenter, but it worked well for me.

 

[tanker]

I built my shed in the same manner that you are planning to do yours. The way I figured the angle was I nailed the rafter 2x6 to the front and back posts, at the desired slope. Then I simply took a level and drew a strait vertical line on the 2x6 rafter boards and snipped off the excess to make the correct angle and length. I'm no carpenter, but it worked well for me.

thats the way that I do it too.Measure and mark your 2 end rafters,run a chalk line across the top of all of them then drop a level mark on each one.

 

[michigander]

I get a 2.8125 degree pitch. Don't ask me how you could measure this. And the way I figured it, it works out to a 3/4 to 12 pitch. :monkey: I'd do what reaperman suggested to cut it the way you want it. Good Luck!

 

[michigander]

I thought about it a little more. As Mike Van suggested, use your framing square, one side should be on 12", the other on 3/4". That should give you the angle you need!

 

[aandabooks]

I like that woodshed of yours, adrpk. Getting ready to build a new shed this spring. Don't think it will be anything quite as fancy as that. I'm thinking 8X24 with 8' at front sloping to 7'. Steel or fiberglass roof.

I've been trying to figure out the sides as was thinking about going with cattle panel. Then putting tarp hooks in the top beam and being able to drop the tarps and zip tie in place in the winter from the side that I'd be burning from. The pallets stood up would be easy and cheaper though.

 

[acer saccharum]

Looking at your sketch, is the left side going to be open or is there a vertical 2x6 for every roof joist? If it is to be open you will need a girder to hold up the roof joists.

 

[clearance]

A framing square (16" x 24") is a great tool. You can figure out the angle (pitch), looks to be around 2-12 to me. Look around on the 'net, check out the word birdsmouth. And as has been said by others, overhang, bigtime, for them skinny rafters.

 

[aandabooks]

Just looked at your sketch. The 2x6 won't be sufficient for uprights. I would say a minimum of 4x4 in the ground and a 2x6 girder the length of the shed for the roof joists to sit on. What will the roof be made of? This will affect the weight load greatly. And wouldn't you want the roof sloping the other way? Just so rain wouldn't be washing into your work area off the roof. Or are you going with a gutter? What will you be using for hardware?

I think the angle would all be the same and should be 12 degrees. Very light angle since you are spanning 16 feet with a 1 ft drop. That would be quite a distance to span a 2x6 with no center support. Could be in for quite a bit of roof sag.

 

[michigander]

A framing square (16" x 24") is a great tool. You can figure out the angle (pitch), looks to be around 2-12 to me. Look around on the 'net, check out the word birdsmouth. And as has been said by others, overhang, bigtime, for them skinny rafters.

Clearance , 2-12 is two inches of rise for every 12 inches. He only wants to raise a foot in a 16 foot run. That means he will raise 3/4 inch every foot or a 3/4-12 pitch.

 

[clearance]

Clearance , 2-12 is two inches of rise for every 12 inches. He only wants to raise a foot in a 16 foot run. That means he will raise 3/4 inch every foot or a 3/4-12 pitch.

Like I said, looks to me. I ain't a carpenter, have framed before, just a treeguy.
But I am right about the square being a good tool am I not? It takes a lot for me to layout rafters or stair treads with one, but I can, slowly and painfully. I find them easier to use squaring cuts or scraping ice off wood. Water will not run away with the run you say, it will stay in the sag that will take place.

 

[michigander]

Like I said, looks to me. I ain't a carpenter, have framed before, just a treeguy.
But I am right about the square being a good tool am I not? It takes a lot for me to layout rafters or stair treads with one, but I can, slowly and painfully. I find them easier to use squaring cuts or scraping ice off wood. Water will not run away with the run you say, it will stay in the sag that will take place.

I hear ya,, I agree there should be more pitch!:monkey:

 

[gink595]

Your in luck!!! This is the exact stuff I do for a living a sturctural steel detailer aka draftsman. I drew it up in cad just because it is easier to view, but if you have any Q's give a holler. I think that 2x6 need to be doubled for your columns and maybe consider revising your roof pitch 3/4 on 12 is a wee bit shallow, especially if you get a lot of snow. Rain will just sit there if you shingle it. unless you the flat roll roofing. Maybe at least a 2" pitch. the low eave side could still be 9' and the high eave would be 11'-8" w a 2" slope.

 

[turnkey4099]

I do use a framing sq (been a long time now) but the simplest and mosst accurate is as someone said. Tack up the first member and use a bevel gauge. Removes all the guessing.

Now layout one rafter, try for fit (shouldn't be necessary but...). Use it to mark out all subsequent one.

Comments about the design.

2x6 on a 16' span won't cut it in your territory. Probably wouldn't be approved by an inspector even in the south. I am even dubious about a doubled 2x6. My inspector wouldn't approve a 2x4 on a 7' 6" span for a porrch roof here in E. Wa and we don't get a lot of snow.

I agree, you need more slope.

My carpentry reference book is buried somewhere and I can't recall what it had to say about minimum slope.

Harry K

 

[SevenDeuce]

Thanks Gink595!

The back beam, highest point will be lag bolted to the wall every 4 feet and will also be resting on the garages window frame. I'll have to get pictures to show what I'm talking about.

As for the 1' drop over 16 feet, I would figure the angle would be perfect for rolled roofing over plywood. The rain should just roll right off.

The end rafters will be supported on the end with a 2x6 beam and 4x4 posts. At the 8ft mark on the two end beams would be another 4x4 post, and it might not be a bad idea to cross a 2x6 beam at that point.

Still toying with the idea. I really appreciate everyones input.

 

[oneoldbanjo]

The Kentucky Building Code requires a slope of not less than 1:12 for rolled asphalt roofing. In areas where the average temperature in January is below 25 degrees it requires 2 layers of felt beneath the rolled roofing for ice protection. Your span for the rafters is a couple of feet longer than what is allowable for modern lumber.....hopefully the old barn was made of hardwood and is a bit stronger than fir/pine. I have a metal pole barn with 14 foot spans using 2x6 lumber and a 4:12 roof pitch - and it has a bit of a sag in the roof but has been able to handle all the snow the last 12 years have provided.

You probably should have a bit more slope and a bit less span for your roof to meet common standards - however your design will probably be fine until that freak snowstorm that brings 30" of wet snow.

 

[gink595]

Thanks Gink595!

The back beam, highest point will be lag bolted to the wall every 4 feet and will also be resting on the garages window frame. I'll have to get pictures to show what I'm talking about.

As for the 1' drop over 16 feet, I would figure the angle would be perfect for rolled roofing over plywood. The rain should just roll right off.

The end rafters will be supported on the end with a 2x6 beam and 4x4 posts. At the 8ft mark on the two end beams would be another 4x4 post, and it might not be a bad idea to cross a 2x6 beam at that point.

Still toying with the idea. I really appreciate everyones input.

I don't believe the roll paper is good for anything under 1:12, everywhere the rolled roofing lappes water will pond, the higher the slope the stronger the structure will be. In the steel buildings we run as low as a 1/4:12 but he span is 100' or greater sometimes less. And we have metal roofing, which could be a possibility for you, get some classic wall siding and mastic for the overlapped seam and apply it for roofing. I think a 3/4:12 slope would be okay with the steel roof. I will have to view a span chart fro you, on your max. span. But you proably have native woods, and the span charts will list for Douglas Fir and Southern Yellow Pine. Which that native stuff will proably be a little more, they are proably an actually 2x6 dimension lumber. Which will help. Good luck!