Buying a saddle

[lhampton]

JPS,

Which version of the Masters saddle do you use. I have heard they changed more than just the color. I have one of the early orange and blue models and get nibbled at on occasion. Im wondering if the later models are any more comfortable.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Mines like 2-3 years old, small d's and such. Same color as yours. I heard they tweeked it a little.

I'm still waiting to see the Blair saddle that Don designed with the SSA people.

I'll probibly going with a full body on my next rig too. More room to put stuff .

 

[seanlarkin]

The new master saddle (as well as the other 3 in the ArborMaster Series) is made so you can use legstraps or a bosun or both; you attach/detach whatever you want. Unluckily for us (Sherrill and I), Buckingham introduced these saddles to the public before telling us about them, so we don't have any in stock, and I'm not sure when they'll be in. Oh well, back at it. (maybe I'll get the site up some time this week).
-Sean

 

[Kevin]

Hey, I like that idea.

Do I detect a clearance sale?

 

[seanlarkin]

A clearance sale?! I don't really see us having to do that. Speaking of sales, check out the inside front cover of TCI and ArborAge magazines for our new ad campaign. I spent much effort putting it together with the help of Bryan Kotwica. There's also going to be an online contest related to the ad, but I suppose I should get the site up first, huh.
-Sean

 

[scottdb]

I just love all the new stuff on the market. As an old Mt. climber i was among many arbos who began the transition to modern gear that was originally developed for Mt. climbing. Gear freaks in the tree industry! Who would have thought...

I know of no "recreational" harness except New Tribes? By the way they have ANSII rating now on several models. I often use a rock climbing harness for rec climbing to save weight although I feel weird in a tree without a tree rig.

I'd agree that you should try out a saddle if you can. Lightweight is the way to go and I would stay away from the old styles with lots of leather and metal. Different body shapes can affect comfort from a harness style.

I have been using an early Komet with a batten seat (Bosun's chair is from sailing not window washing! Same place that the majority of modern knots came from.). It is avery nice rig. Absolutely no problems from the batten getting around a tree. I have a Petzl with the batten seat and shoulder harness too. Not a very good design for wear and tear and I have had to modify the shoulder harness to make it comfortable, also it is hard to get in and out of. I also have a heavier (olod fashioned) harness for big conifer removals where I am on my hips and spurs the whole time.

My first saddle was in NY in 1974 and it weighed a ton. An old Buckingham I think. Manilla rope was what we dangled from. Later in Olympia WA. We made our own saddles using truck tie down webbing sewed on an industrial machine. I climbed in that saddle for 20 years. Still have it and would still trust it.

Recently a pal of mine took some old homeade rock climbing saddles made in the 70's and acommercially produced Whillans rock harness of the same vintage and tested them at REI's facility. They all held several UIAA falls with no failure. Gear lasts a long time with proper care.

I remember a mentor of mine teasing us about our new fangled perlon climbing ropes. He could climb anything we could on his old nylon Goldline. (and with only one toe!) His message was pointing out that it is most important to know what you are doing and that simple gear can often get the job done! First post...got carried away....

 

[treeclimber165]

Welcome, Scott!

I've never gotten into all the different belts. Bought a Karl Kummerling (sp?) because that is what was available locally. Didn't like the Buckingham's, too hot with the 8" back pad. (Had to use one at Davey) Been using the same style belt for 15 years, on my 3rd now.
I agree with your mentor about understanding CLIMBING first, then adapt whatever fancy frilly crap you want into your arsenal. Simple is usually best, IMHO. But I also realize that I have limited myself by not being open to new ideas and equipment. Oh, well. Doesn't look like I will be doing a lot more climbing anyway, since my fall last year. I still have my gear bag and have climbed 4-5 times in the last year.
Again, welcome! Glad to have one more Pro's opinion.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I've trained a number of new climbers and always had them tie an anchor on a safety clip with a tail to start moving in small trees. Use a 10 ft prussick flipline and a handsaw, nothing else. Usualy an old KK saddle with the leather buckles in the groch area. KIS and then add on from there, if you are only an occational climber you can still KIS. No 30ft grillon lanyard, rack decender, two friction savers in reserve, extra 'biners, 3-4 redirects....

 

[WillClimb]

Petzl Navaho Vario

Has anyone tried this saddle? Do you like?

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I've borrowed one. Know some guys who use them for inspections and rec climbing. Kinda light for regular tree work. Here it moves around alot. Komet Butterfly is the rage these days. Might get one myself.

 

[WillClimb]

Komet Butterfly

John -
I've looked all over the internet for this saddle to no avail! Cant find it anywhere. Any ideas?
Thanks - Will

 

[Tom Dunlap]

B'fly

Scroll down a ways to see the butterfly:

http://www.kong.it/climbin2.htm

 

[WillClimb]

Tom -
Saw your picture in a tree-climber-training ad in my Fresco catalogue. You were pictured next to three young bucks. I bet ya can outclimb the lot of them I dont know, these guys had some serious accolades.

Just ordered the Butterfly from them by the way. Anxiously awaiting its arrival.

 

[tree md]

I couldn't tell by the ad, does it work on rolling d or double d?

 

[Tom Dunlap]

The B'fly is a rolling d. You can use one or two biners to tie in. I can't imagine why anyone would use two biners on a floating d though. By attaching to the aluminum rings you can step through and work in front of your rope.

http://www.frescoinc.net/arborist/arborist.htm


Tom

 

[WillClimb]

So, when using a split-tail setup: you're saying to to girth-hitch your split-tail directly to one of the D-Rings, and then terminate your climbing line with a double-fisherman's into the 'biner, which will then be clipped to the other D? Or is there only one rolling D on the B'Fly?

 

[Tom Dunlap]

There is only the yellow strap included.

I use a LockJack or Mimono,

http://www.cutright.stn.net/verticalpro/index.html


so I only have one saddle attachment. You could use a delta screw link as a slider on the yellow webbing. If you did, you might consider tweaking the screw just a ti-i-iny bit with a pliers to eliminate the possibility of a rope unscrewing the link.

Many climbers modify their saddle, at their own risk, voiding manufacturers liability, and change the yellow strap to something a little shorter. This keeps your hitch lower, away from your face.

Tom

 

[WillClimb]

The B'Fly doesn't come with the D-Rings already on it?
Can you just use a 'biner as the rolling D? Would you HAVE to use one of those HDP Rollers with it?

 

[Tom Dunlap]

Nope, no d-ring on the yellow strap. You could use one of those rollers. In my experience, the only place those rollers are really needed are on saddles that have a rough, sticky strap on the front. Before I modified my B'fly I just used Petzl Am'd biners and they slipped nicely.

Tom

 

[WillClimb]

Great! Thanks, Tom.