Can you compensate for "Lean" by higher oil mix?

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Engineeringnerd

Engineeringnerd

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Is running a saw too lean a problem with the RPM's being too high for the design of the saw, or is it mainly a lubrication problem? If lubrication, could you just use a heavier mix (say 40:1 or 32:1) and run leaner while supplying the same amount of oil as a richer fuel mix with a lighter oil blend?

Also, I was adjusting the jets on my 372XP and 346XP today by ear. The 346XP was pretty easy to sense the right settings, but the 372 was a little more difficult to adjust to barely "4-cycle". Any tips for making accurate carb adjustments in the field would be appreciated.
 
68kaiser

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order a tach from Baileys around $60 dollars i think it was, i just bought one because i fried a saw by over reving it. now that i have the tach and can see what the saw is turning and the sound it is making at that r.p.m. i now have an ear for it. get the tach it is worth the money trust me.....nick.....
 
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Engineeringnerd

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One more thing to buy!

If I get the tach, what do you recommend as being a good setting compared to rated speed. Should you leave a little buffer below the specified speed or go for full throttle.
 
Freakingstang

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engineeringnerd said:
If I get the tach, what do you recommend as being a good setting compared to rated speed. Should you leave a little buffer below the specified speed or go for full throttle.

I saw the pics of your saw in the muffler mod thread. it is a newer one that probably has the rev limited coil. Do not set the rpm at the max or you will fry it. I would set it 500 rpm below the max to keep it off of the rev limiter. All of my 372's are older without rev limiters
 
68kaiser

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i am fairly new to the chainsaw world but am learning as fast as i can. i want to say at least 500 r.p.m. or so below the max is good for longevity. but I'm sure someone with more knowledge will give a better answer.
 
Four Paws

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There is a bunch of great information available if you SEARCH! Your question has been covered and answered many times!

Welcome to the site! Nice muffler mod on the 346, and I like the spikes on the 372 - just the right size for big western wood.
 
manual

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engineeringnerd said:
Is running a saw too lean a problem with the RPM's being too high for the design of the saw, or is it mainly a lubrication problem? If lubrication, could you just use a heavier mix (say 40:1 or 32:1) and run leaner while supplying the same amount of oil as a richer fuel mix with a lighter oil blend?

Also, I was adjusting the jets on my 372XP and 346XP today by ear. The 346XP was pretty easy to sense the right settings, but the 372 was a little more difficult to adjust to barely "4-cycle". Any tips for making accurate carb adjustments in the field would be appreciated.
I'll give it a wack.

Running a saw too lean. creates more heat in your cylinder. Reason being less fuel and more air. "Think of a cutting torch when you add oxygen".
Lubrication becomes a problem to the top end in a leaner adjustment. the hotter cylinder aids to the flash point for the oil to burn.
If your are trying to get the most out of you engine and that would be to run it at max RPM .I recommend you run 40:1 mix and try 32:1 mix .
The more oil introduced into the cylinder, Helps with lubrication to the Cylinder, less friction means less heat.
I would do a muffler mod. You are going to find safer gains in RPMs.
plenty to pick from for your saws.

BTW I adjust from the lean side down, But to many people jump on me when I say that.
Hopes this helps.
 
manual

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MY Bad,
I just seen your muffler mods, Yes you are going to run over max RPMs.
Unless you have Rev limiting coils.
Tells what you got. check your coils out.
 
Lakeside53

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68kaiser said:
i am fairly new to the chainsaw world but am learning as fast as i can. i want to say at least 500 r.p.m. or so below the max is good for longevity. but I'm sure someone with more knowledge will give a better answer.

What Freaking is trying to tell you is that you can't set to the "max rpm" on a limiter coil... If you don't know the exact procedure, you have to set it low just to be sure it isn't limiting, and getting too lean. Lot's of saws get fried by users not understanding exactly how to set the mixture with one. They are a bad idea all around..

As for your oil question... just run at at the recommended mix.. then adjust the mixture and max rpm.... Running the saw too lean will fry it... trying to compensate with more mix is a waste of time. Set the mixture where is is supposed to be set. If you want to play with oil, just use a better oils like a full synthetic.
 
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314epw said:
What year did the rev limiter come out on the 372xp?Also does the 362xp (2000) have one?
Ed
I looked up 372XP IPLs on the US Husky site. They have three listings for the 372. Manufactured before October 2001. Ignition module part #503 96 24-05. Manufactured October 2001 to October 2003. Ignition module part # 537 16 22-01. Manufactured after October 2003. Uses same module as Oct 2001 to Oct 2003.

I am assuming that the first module listed is the desirable one to have. It looks as if would be a simple swap once the flywheel is off. I believe that the non-limiting coils are black in color and the limitings ones are blue. Please feel free to correct this information if it is not correct.

Ed I believe your 362XP probably has the non-limiting coil by the 2000 production date.

Vince
 
Engineeringnerd

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O.K. guys, just placed an order for a tach with Baileys. I'm counting on you guys to defend me when my wife goes over the charge slip in 3 weeks.

By the way, did I mention she was a Marine (really)?
 
ciscoguy01

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Yep

engineeringnerd said:
O.K. guys, just placed an order for a tach with Baileys. I'm counting on you guys to defend me when my wife goes over the charge slip in 3 weeks.

By the way, did I mention she was a Marine (really)?

Get'er in the Cheek hold dude. That will stop the biggest baddest dude's on planet earth, lmao...:laugh:
 
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