I did not know cleaning carbon out of my classic saw was such a cotroversal subject.-- David
can you post a pic of the bottle?OMC makes a product for cleaning outboards that’s added to the fuel. I have a gallon but have yet to use it. It is supposed to remove even the most stubborn carbon from a saw jug.
I generally let mine soak in my USC, which is filled with Mean Green overnight. I have small with wheels to remove stubborn stuff from the chamber, and the lathe generally removes all the carbon from the band when I cut it.
This one was caked.
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Those are nice ball hones I use them. Note, some are for Nikasil and some Iron. Order appropriately.First let’s clear this up ball honing isn’t boring. All it does is clean the surface and put a cross hatch on the cylinder walls. There’s no way I removed the nikasil. I do have a gear driven hone that can bore nikasil, steel and cast iron sleeve cylinders. My early husky saws are industrial chrome plated.
https://www.enginehones.com/niapho.html
Note, I do not run the hone full on, I jog the drill in, then jog it out clockwise, then I jog it in, then jog it out counter clockwise. A quick fast short jog. That’s it for a nice cross hatch. Again do not run the hone full on.
Not going to ruin the ports typically it can happen if its already shot and you overdo it.I’ve honed many Nikasil cylinders. It does not ruin them. One has to use some light oil and some common sense.
I use a 3 stone hone and only do it if a jug had extensive amounts of transfer in the bore. I finish it with medium and then fine Scotchbrite.
NEVER use a ball style hone. They will catch the port edges and remove the plating.
Where does the chips go when the muffler is cut to modify it? Into the carbon inside the muffler, does anyone wash the muffler out? When running with chips in the muffler where can they go? During the two stroke cycle there is a blow back or scavenge where they could end up in the cylinder.
I’ve honed many Nikasil cylinders. It does not ruin them. One has to use some light oil and some common sense.
I use a 3 stone hone and only do it if a jug had extensive amounts of transfer in the bore. I finish it with medium and then fine Scotchbrite.
NEVER use a ball style hone. They will catch the port edges and remove the plating.
A ball hone will not ruin a cylinder, including port edges, unless you SERIOUSLY over do it. You almost have to be trying to ruin the cylinder in order for that to happen.Not going to ruin the ports typically it can happen if its already shot and you overdo it.
I been using them for 5 years and burned a couple but I suspect they were thin at the starting point.A ball hone will not ruin a cylinder, including port edges, unless you SERIOUSLY over do it. You almost have to be trying to ruin the cylinder in order for that to happen.
The tension, which is needed to accomplish anything, will push the balls into a port slightly. This will wear the port edge it’s rotating into. Maybe it won’t be enough to matter, but it will happen.A ball hone will not ruin a cylinder, including port edges, unless you SERIOUSLY over do it. You almost have to be trying to ruin the cylinder in order for that to happen.
A 3 stone will float over the ports if you get one with long enough stones. QUOTE]
My only question is how do you hone a open port cylinder where you only have a small sliver of cylinder wall between ports without a stone blowing up?
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