, , well if a portion is frozen shut then you don't need duct tape then until the next fluctuation.. If it's too restricted then it will has a erratic idle. I have built raised shields out of milk cartons also. When I was felling in the interior with snow loaded trees then I would take three fast swings with my axe and get the heck out of the way and then go take care of business after the white out setteled. 100% of the time If you knew you needed to wedge. If no wedging then for sure I would make sure my starter cove was facing down as sometimes it all let's go anyway. (Wrap handlebar) Smart to stay away from mesh filters in general.I was worried about my 261 Arctic cutting in heavy snow with snow raining down on the starter side and blocking off the air vents.
I know there’s an optional skirt for that known as duct tape.
I was more concerned about getting a water score on the intake skirt, but Stihl has done a great job with the filter system and it never got wet in the air box.
Does anyone know if the 261 Arctic has a heated carb?
Also I’m afraid of compressed air on those tiny circuit boards under the hood. What do you guys use or am I worrying too much?
Fine for stuff like spacing and brushing saplings in the summer. Yeah the small stuff is the worst as it's always starter side up and shakes the snow on contract. Sometimes bump them with the bar first. Bigger saws and bars then you can shield with you body. Heated handlebar are not good on cold snow loaded days as they just make install ice blocks out of your leather saw gloves once you shut down. I don't use heated handles. Heated carb is a good thing for most people though