Come on Shoe you gotta do better then that. You say you just have to adjust the Stihl chain a couple of times slightly when new and then your done? For petes sake I have run lots of Stihl chain like everyone else here who has used it , have sharpened the teeth right down to the laser top plate mark and have continually adjusted that chain through its whole life.
I must give Stihl credit, they do do a good job pre stretching their chain on the assembly line for the chains initial breakin period for the first few minutes on the saw. But chain tensioning is always an on going thing no matter whether its Stihl or Oregon. Like other members here I don't see any stretching problems with the Oregon chain.
By the way Shoe is that a Husqvarna on the back of your old truck in your sig?
Not at all.....
Of course a slight tweak now and then with Stihl chain, but you would run out of adjustment with Oregon chain,,, if it were not junk so soon!
Why everyone that has ran Oregon chain can feel the 'slop' in the rivets after some use, but of course you would have some sort of proff, as those that gave up on Oregon chain years ago won't go back with out it?
Here are a couple Stihl chains, the one on top, lets just say comming up on half-wore out?
And a new loop on the bottom....
The measurement of the new loop is 3.650" between 10 rivets. The measurement of the 50% loop is 3.674" between 10 rivets, and if you notice the heel of the cutter (
the portion that the cutter rides on as it's rocked back in a cut) is Stihl fairly in good shape? Losing .014 per 10, or .0014 per rivet is a very acceptable loss! Superior metallurgy?
By the way Shoe is that a Husqvarna on the back of your old truck in your sig?
By all means no, I have service to haul trash!
Edit: or so, I tried to give the best measurement I could, very close enough to get an idea.