Chain sharpening cost

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It amazes me that people will take their expensive chains to someone HOPING that they can run a grinder correctly. Hand sharpening is so easy and fast that it is crazy not to do it. For the average guy, a grinder is an unnecessary expense.

I sharpen my chain when I stop to gas up. I have a c-clamp fixed to a board that makes a portable vise. By the time that I stop to gas up, I am ready for a break anyway. I can sharpen the chain on my 16-inch 260 about as fast as you could change to another chain. My chains leave the saw when they are worn out or other maintenance is required. I get a lot of use from a chain.

Most people that use grinders are going to wear out a chain far faster than a guy with a file and will at least burn them and ruin the temper.
 
thats another reason i do my own now,,the guy that used to do mine would see how much of the tooth he could grind off

The guy at the hardware store used to do the same thing to me, I bought my own grinder, now I do my own and my friends for $3.00 just to cover the cost of the wheels.
In the defense of the guy at the hardware store, he did sell chains.
 
Perhaps it is more a question if the person can effectively hand file or not. Some people can't drill 90 degrees to a surface, so the same must be true that some people can't operate a hand file effectively. Hand filing is the most expedient and cost effective method. If you can't file well, buy a chain grinder, if you can't operate a chain grinder then you probably shouldn't be using a saw.
 
Perhaps it is more a question if the person can effectively hand file or not. Some people can't drill 90 degrees to a surface, so the same must be true that some people can't operate a hand file effectively. Hand filing is the most expedient and cost effective method. If you can't file well, buy a chain grinder, if you can't operate a chain grinder then you probably shouldn't be using a saw.

You, Mr. Woodchuck are getting into opinionated philosophy.
So, class, wood ( get it ?) the above statement apply to procreation ?:cheers:

Sharpening is not ordinance, brain surgery, recon, or politics. With simple training, trial and error, follow the witness line on the top of the tooth. File at a prescribed angle set by the manufacturer with the proper file size. Stroke straight with no pressure until the tooth edge reflects no light. (The raker will come next in class boys and girls. )

There are diagrams, manuals, YouTubes, ArboristSite instructions up the kazoo (wazoo for Midwesterners) for sharpening. Get a old or worn chain to try on. Or, when you get a new chain, "air sharpen" ( Pat Pending ) it ( like air guitar ) to know the correct specs.

It is easy. Just practice. Don't listen to the Knows.:monkey:
 
I hand file pretty well. Don't take my chains any where to be sharpened.

Is it just me that thinks some on here have a very high opinion of themselves because they file as opposed to those that don't??? :monkey:
 
I hand file pretty well. Don't take my chains any where to be sharpened.

Is it just me that thinks some on here have a very high opinion of themselves because they file as opposed to those that don't??? :monkey:

I do, because I am.....have a "very high opinion of (ourself)".
And, why not ? Haven't most of us done the deeds to bring ourselves to this exaulted position ?

I hand file, therefore I am. Want to join ? :monkey:
 
You, Mr. Woodchuck are getting into opinionated philosophy.
So, class, wood ( get it ?) the above statement apply to procreation ?:cheers:

You got me:)

I should have been more specific. If you can't do something yourself because of ability, the next step is to pay for someone to do it for you. There is the point of efficiency, if you only cut 2-3 times a year you don't have to sharpen right away and paying to have your chains sharpen might be the easiest thing to do. "I can't hang drywall or mud very well so I pay someone to do it for me, even though I could get better at it with practice":)
 
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I hand file.....however, I do want to get a grinder to get the angle and tooth length back.

I've found out that I like using this file guide: Husqvarna file guide

Question(s) for the guys that sharpen chains at shops....

I too have noticed that a lot of the tooth would be ground away some times. Is this because the person running the grinder sets it that deap so they are sure to get even the shortest tooth?

Do shops make any money sharpening chains?


This would be the "ideal" grinder: :greenchainsaw:

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If you asked nice, and perhaps brought a beer I would sharpen your chain for free so long as I had the right file. For two beers I would show you how to file yours own chain. For three beers, you will know how to sharpen your own chain AND have an ear full about how hand filing is the only way to go...:cheers:

And for 5 or 6 beers, you'll ruin his chain. :hmm3grin2orange:
 
I was just looking for a median price to charge for sharpening. Most of y’all have the right idea. Do it yourself. All the ones that I do, I do by hand and they can be shaved with and never turn blue (I’m 70 and slowing down in my old age)
 
I will grind the teeth to the worst one all the same, I use a caliper to get both sides equal. There almost always is more than one snagle tooth per side. I also pay particular attention to how far back the corner is worn -grinding to just behind that. I am a commercial shop. At the present time there is a bucket not to far from me with apx 60 chains in it for sharpening- no way am I going to hand file that many chains. i also get Block saw chains in (.404 FC) these loops are 7+ feet long. I f i were to do all these by hand I would go broke as well as having a very bad case of carpal tunnel.
 
I was just looking for a median price to charge for sharpening. Most of y’all have the right idea. Do it yourself. All the ones that I do, I do by hand and they can be shaved with and never turn blue (I’m 70 and slowing down in my old age)

It may be satisfying to sharpen a chain to that fine edge, but that degree of sharpness does not last very long. Shaving sharp equals thin edge.
 
I charge $5 for friends and let them cut with it first. If there happy, then pay up. If not then don’t pay but hold it against me. Sharpening also includes depth gauge adjustment.
 
I also hand file my own chains, but there are times when I need to get a chain done with a grinder (rock damage :angry: or to true up the angles). I have yet to find a good 'local' (within 30 miles) shop who I am fully satisfied with. I have some .325" chain to do and not sure who to go to. My concern is that they'll use the same wheel that they us on 3/8" chain.

Kevin
If ground on a stihl usg ,the wheel is the same for both pitches,
and produces an incredibly sharp result with minimal material removed
 
I bought a sthil 2in1 and gave my grinder away. I dont keep extra chains laying around, I keep extra saws. If the saw gets dull, I just swap it out for a sharp one. When I get home I drag out the file and touch up each saw. I have a 42cc pouland I trim around the yard with, it never sees dirt, a 365 special with a 20in bar and a 272 with a 24in bar, a 55 with a 18in bar and half a dozen 55's with 20 in bars. I'll take 3 or 4 saws with me when I cut wood, and sometimes I will dulll them all.:oops:
 
If you asked nice, and perhaps brought a beer I would sharpen your chain for free so long as I had the right file. For two beers I would show you how to file yours own chain. For three beers, you will know how to sharpen your own chain AND have an ear full about how hand filing is the only way to go...:cheers:
I wish you lived next door, you'd make a damn nice neighbor. Not that I need sharpening instructions - my dad taught me years ago when he let me run the saw for the first time as a teen and it wasn't long before I hit the dirt and he saw me struggling with a dull chain and had me shut the saw off and then proceeded to show me how to sharpen on the tailgate of a '71 Chevy K10; that was around 1976 and have been hand filing ever since.
 
I bought a sthil 2in1 and gave my grinder away. I dont keep extra chains laying around, I keep extra saws. If the saw gets dull, I just swap it out for a sharp one. When I get home I drag out the file and touch up each saw. I have a 42cc pouland I trim around the yard with, it never sees dirt, a 365 special with a 20in bar and a 272 le-o-plaa 24in bar, a 55 with a 18in bar and half a dozen 55's with 20 in bars. I'll take 3 or 4 saws with me when I cut wood, and sometimes I will dulll them all.:oops:

So, I take it that you like the 2/1? I have considered them a couple times, but still have a file-o-plate and a standard file holder to use.
 
So, I take it that you like the 2/1? I have considered them a couple times, but still have a file-o-plate and a standard file holder to use.
Yes, I do like the 2in1. I tried the husky version, but didnt like having to change file configuration to swap sides. With the sthil, you just flip the file. Now to be honest about the grinder give away. I gave it to a buddy and still have full access to it if I need it. My buddy does stump grinding and was bringing me 20-30 chains at a time to sharpen for him. I decided it was easier to give him the grinder than it was for me to spend hours sharpening his chains. I Havent missed having the grinder in my shop and the 2in1 will take care of a rocked chain as well as the grinder. Not that I hit a lot of rocks:lol:
 
I wish you lived next door, you'd make a damn nice neighbor. Not that I need sharpening instructions - my dad taught me years ago when he let me run the saw for the first time as a teen and it wasn't long before I hit the dirt and he saw me struggling with a dull chain and had me shut the saw off and then proceeded to show me how to sharpen on the tailgate of a '71 Chevy K10; that was around 1976 and have been hand filing ever since.

Due the increased cost of health care, fuel, etc. I no longer accept beer as currency. Please adjust payment to reflect the new bourbon standard. Thank you.


:cheers:
 

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