Chain Sharpening Question

[Dogsout]

I got a, probably dumb question, when file sharpening a chain should the file touch all of the tooth? I have been trying like heck to learn to file in the field with very little luck so decided to take the advice of a board member and try securing the bar to my vice on my work bench. This worked much better and I could get a very smooth stroke with the file while sharpening. Did notice that I was only shining up the top and bottom of the tooth with the middle not getting touched. Keep in mind it is possible that I am not doing it right also. I am using the file that was recommended by the salesmen at the F&F store. 3/8 chain with a 7/32 file it that helps. I think if I can perfect my technique in the shop that the field filing will fall into place in short order. Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Cheesecutter]

That's the right file for 3/8 chain. I struggled at first keeping my angle consistent, but a simple file guide did the trick for me. I also took a brand new chain and fit the file to a known sharp tooth for a perspective on the exact file position.

 

[CTYank]

At home, or in the field, I keep Granberg file guide handy. Quick, simple, precise. Some will tell that they can free-hand filing with only a bare file. Too many variables, I don't believe it. When set up and adjusted, the file will skim the entire inner face of the cutter, and make it shiny.

Anyhow, unless I hit something, a couple of strokes per tooth, and it's all razors. Minimum metal removed.

Meanwhile, I'm putting together a set of pix for show & tell of just how simple it is.

 

[dave_376]

HOW TO Manually Sharpen a Chainsaw Chain - YouTube

 

[dpm2000bolt]

when I started cutting I would use a guide like Bailey's - Granberg File-N-Joint Precision Filing Guide you can set it pretty close so that you take about the same off each tooth. I just always kept a few extra chains and so once the chain is dull I would replace and take home to sharpen. I now go was not liking put the chains on to sharpen just to take off again and have 3 saws 4 rails and 12 chains. so i love my Bench grinder Bailey's - Oregon Bench Mounted Mini Grinder

I make sure the whole tooth is touched when using a bench grinder or file. sorry kind of off topic.

 

[Dogsout]

the file will skim the entire inner face of the cutter, and make it shiny

OK this being the case how can I try and sharpen a whole chain and not have one tooth completely sharp top to bottom? Is it possible that the guy that I bring the chains to when I need them resharpened is gouging more out of the middle of the tooth then the top and bottom. I ask because even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and them. With that reasoning you would think that I could get the correct angle and bevel on at least one tooth on the whole chain. Not trying to be difficult but I am doing pretty much everything the guy in the video is doing but with different results.

 

[Foxfire]

They are probably using an electric grinder/sharpener which could account for their and your grinds not matching 100%.

 

[dpm2000bolt]

I always used a guide like this Bailey's - Granberg File-N-Joint Precision Filing Guide to try to steady myself as it will help you in getting it close to taking the same amount off each tooth. I have too many chains now and use a bench grinder now just like the guy you take them too.

 

[RiverRocket]

If the chain was sharpened with a grinder it may take a few strokes to take the shape of the file.
Something to pay attention to is making sure the file is horizontal with the chain..if that makes any since.
What i mean is allot of times people want to run the file with a slightly angled upward stroke.If the file is hitting the link, your angling the file
I don't know about other brand chains, but Stihl chains have a line on the top of the tooth for a visual guide for the proper angle.

 

[ptjeep]

A chain thats been ground will have a slightly different profile than a round file. A few strokes with a file will usually clean up the profile. A trick is to color the tooth with a sharpie and then hit it with a file, check the tooth after each stroke to see what material has been removed.

For filing in the field, invest in a stump vise from baileys, around $10. Hand filing a saw on the ground is almost impossible.

Good luck.

 

[Butch(OH)]

Another guide that works well but never gets a mention here 'cept by me is the flat plate style Oregon that is sold anywhere that sells Oregon chain. Stihl sells a similar unit. One of the Chain Mfg web sites has a pure excellent chain sharpening section but I cant remember which one it is? Oregon, Stihl, or Carlton.

 

[Patrick62]

There are no dumb questions, only dumb answers.

The first thing to consider is if ya have not been filing a chain very long, then it is likely you are not getting it really sharp.
It takes practice, and lots of it.

There are some people who are more gifted, and catch on faster. Mostly I have seen it takes about a season to learn what the tooth is supposed to look like. Then it takes another season to learn how to hold the file to achieve it.

I told one of my cutters the other day. First you have to be out on a nice day with a not so great chain. No spare chain, but a good set of files. You plunk the saw down and really do a first class filing job. You are proud of your work, and go back to cutting. You notice something funny. The saw is hopping on ya. You knock a couple more blocks off, and think about it. Boy, part of this chain is really working good. which implies... part of it isn't! You shut the saw off and go gaze carefully at each tooth as you pull it around. You noticed where you were getting sloppy and you file it up a few strokes to straighten the angles. Then you go around and touch the rakers to be certain that they are about .025 or so... You try again. It is a little better, but still not perfect. You plunk down and try again. Find and adjust a few more, hold that file steady. Straight lines. Eventually you get it pretty decent. It is cutting fast, and running smooth. You have achieved Satori. With all that fiddling to get it really good you now understand why it really ticks ya off when ya do something stupid like fall thru a cut and barely touch the sand :bang: knowing it will take a few minutes with a file to correct that damage, and you are filing off very precious metal to do so.

This is why I am going to a pay the cutter system, instead of them using my saws!

 

[TreeTangler]

I'm sorry if this sounds like I am stating the obvious or insulting your intelligence, but is it 3/8 or 3/8 lo pro? If it's lo pro, it actually requires a 5/32 file and would explain why the middle of the cutter is untouched.

 

[Dogsout]

I'm sorry if this sounds like I am stating the obvious or insulting your intelligence, but is it 3/8 or 3/8 lo pro? If it's lo pro, it actually requires a 5/32 file and would explain why the middle of the cutter is untouched.

I thank everyone that has taken time to respond to my question. Here is the chain that I have "33 RSC3 72" 20" 72 3/8 .050 Rapid Super. So not being well versed in chain jargon I am going to say no I do not have 3/8 lo pro. Reading other post I was only giving 2 strokes per tooth so as not to over sharpen which may very well have not been enough to get the tooth to conform to the file. Tomorrow I will try 5 strokes and see if I indeed can 100% file a tooth.

 

[Festus]

Chain sharpening questions should never be thought of as stupid questions. Other than basic saw safety, it's the most important thing you can learn about using a chainsaw. Knowing how to sharpen a chain properly sure would have made life easier for me when I was growing up back in the 80's. There was no Google or Arboristsite to help back then. I didn't even comprehend how bad we were at it.
Nowadays I also use the file n joint. I take along an extra chain out in the field in case I need it and touch them up back in the garage after every couple tanks of fuel. Once you get the hang of the file n joint, or other similar tool, it only takes 10-15 minutes to sharpen a chain. Even less for a 16-18 inch bar. A few more minutes if you file the depth gauges. I would think going back and forth from grinder to file could take a lot of life out of a chain for the very reason the OP stated.

 

[Macman125]

You can take as many strokes as you need to get it sharp. Just make sure that all your cutters are very close in length in the end. make sure all of you angle stay the same. As stated earlier get a factory chain and try to match the angles. And if you know the chain is sharp and is still not cutting as expected take a couple licks off the drags.

 

[qweesdraw]

Husky makes a roller sharpener about $15 @ Lowes and comes with 3 files.
Use the files a few times then get some Save Edge files from Baileys!(they take the meat off the bone FAST)
Two thumbs up on Save Edge Files!!!
Don't forget them Rakers too, about every 3 sharpinings.
It's easier to sharpen a slightly dull chain than a dull one, I do a quickie every tank or two of fuel.
What i do in the field also have a few sharp spares in the tool box.
When i get home the bar sharpener,i have the Oregon/ Granberg clone.

 

[savageactor7]

"...should the file touch all of the tooth"

Yup. But keep in mind the 'point' of the chain does most, if not all of the cutting. So all your zen like thoughts should concentrate on carefully drawing that file across the point.

Along with the other fine advice given I'd recommend that after you've tightened the chain against the bar and placed it in a vise. Get in a comfortable position over the chain that you can maintain for the duration of sharpening that one side...then duplicate it of the other side.

 

[Fred Wright]

+1 for the Huskyvarna roller guide. These things make sharpening in the field easy and accurate.

I was around 13 or so when I was first introduced to chainsaws. The old boy, a neighbor man taught me to touch up the chain before it needed it. Two tanks of fuel, a few strokes with the file. Don't run it 'til it won't cut anymore.

The ticket to stump filing is to ensure that the saw won't move around while you're working. That ain't always easy to do. But the chain has to stay still while you file it. If the saw pivots or the chain rolls during a stroke you won't get a good sharpening job.

One mistake (of many) I made when starting out was uneven cutters. I figured, sharp was sharp, right? Nope. Unevenly filed cutting teeth was as bad as a dull chain. They all have to be the same.

 

[Foxfire]

One quick tip I have is, to not get in to mastering the sharpening process until you have a few junk/older chains to practice on. Over this past winter I bought an Oregon file guide, a Husq roller guide, a Granberg, and just recently a Timberline which is why I had to get a new chain Friday...even if you get the process down quickly you'll eat up chains when you start putting them in the dirt so you can sharpen them again.