chain storage

[capecodtree]

chain

In my company, the chain stays on the bar and is hand filed as needed. when the cutting tooth is down to a "nail clipping" it gets tossed. If you can't sharpen a saw, take down rakers, and keep your bar in proper shape, you stay dragging brush. good incentive for the rookies to learn about taking care of a chain saw.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Hand Sharpening Has Its Limits.

In my company, the chain stays on the bar and is hand filed as needed. when the cutting tooth is down to a "nail clipping" it gets tossed. If you can't sharpen a saw, take down rakers, and keep your bar in proper shape, you stay dragging brush. good incentive for the rookies to learn about taking care of a chain saw.

A bunch of guys do that around here--hand file a chain until they drop. Then they throw them into a 5-gallon bucket.

They gave one of those buckets to me last year. I saved 15 chains out of that bucket by sharpening them with my Oregon 511A. All work and most can be degreased, cleaned up, and then sharpened 5 more times with the Oregon 511A. That's one of the reasons I bought it.

 

[freemind]

In my company, the chain stays on the bar and is hand filed as needed. when the cutting tooth is down to a "nail clipping" it gets tossed. If you can't sharpen a saw, take down rakers, and keep your bar in proper shape, you stay dragging brush. good incentive for the rookies to learn about taking care of a chain saw.

I saw wood for myself and a little to sell. I have one main saw, and I have three or four chains for it. I generally use one chain until there is nothing left. I have thrown chains before not paying attention to chain tention, and boogered up the links that ride in the bar. So a spare is good to have on hand. No need for too many chains IMO.

I only hand file. I would like a bench sharpener, but costs make it probitive.

 

[Philbert]

In my company, the chain stays on the bar

Lots of ways to do things.

I always take 3 chains per saw, so if I hit something, I can swap out the chain, go back to work, and fix the chain later. Filing in the field is good to bring back an edge, but can be a lot of work for a rocked chain, and doesn't do anything for one that breaks.

Companies like Oregon and STIHL also caution about putting a new chain on a worn sprocket, and vice versa, due to accelerated wear. They recommend rotating between 2 - 3 chains then replacing the sprocket when you buy new chains.

Philbert

 

[rhunt13]

:agree2:

 

[Wood Doctor]

Lots of ways to do things.

I always take 3 chains per saw, so if I hit something, I can swap out the chain, go back to work, and fix the chain later. Filing in the field is good to bring back an edge, but can be a lot of work for a rocked chain, and doesn't do anything for one that breaks.

Companies like Oregon and STIHL also caution about putting a new chain on a worn sprocket, and vice versa, due to accelerated wear. They recommend rotating between 2 - 3 chains then replacing the sprocket when you buy new chains.

Philbert

Sprockets usually last much longer than that. The problem with sprockets wearing out too soon is usually caused by running the chain too loose or not using good chain oil. I always check the chain tension and fill the bar oil tank before I start the saw engine. Chains usually stretch.

And, whenever I sharpen and/or remove the chain, clean everything around the housing with a stiff brush and give it a good bath. A stitch in time saves nine. :msp_wink:

 

[chucker]

always keep half dozen used chains hanging from the gun racks in the back window of the truck. new chains still in the box and only one of each for the 3 saws i usually bring to the woods..

 

[ks_osage_orange]

Two large nails near my bench sharpener in the wall of my shop. One labled "Sharp" the other "Dull." Give the Sharp a spray of oil after sharpening for storage on the nail. When I dull a chain it simply goes on the "Dull" nail until I'm ready to sharpen.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Two large nails near my bench sharpener in the wall of my shop. One labled "Sharp" the other "Dull." Give the Sharp a spray of oil after sharpening for storage on the nail. When I dull a chain it simply goes on the "Dull" nail until I'm ready to sharpen.

Nothing's much worse than mounting a dull chain that you thought was sharp. Therefore, whenever I remove a dull chain, I sharpen it as soon as I can. Keeping an inventory of dull chains that could be sharpened seems pointless--unless you have a friend around with a professional chain sharpener (like me) and would like to give them to him.

 

[Philbert]

Nothing's much worse than mounting a dull chain that you thought was sharp.

I know some guys that have a 'system': e.g. sharp chains are in a zip-lock bag, or coiled with a twistie-tie; used/dull chains are loose in the box.

Anything we use that gets damaged (including a chain that needs more than sharpening) is supposed to get an orange tag describing the problem, contact person, etc.

On your second point, I also enjoy salvaging chain. Add a spinner/breaker set to the grinder and you can make a lot more loops that actually fit saws you have or know.

Philbert

Philbert

 

[RAG66]

I buy a roll of chain at a time. I assemble about four to six loops for each saw that uses the size of chain I'm working with. The roll of chain comes with 10-15 boxes or so, I label what saw and bar combo they fit, wrap the chains in paper towel misted with rust prohibitor, small loops two to a box, big loops one to a box.

 

[atvdave]

I don't care to file in the filed so I carry a lot of extra chain with me when I cut. I reuse the box the chain came in, stored in a old ammo box along with a few tools.

When I think a chain is too dull to use I will change out the loop. I keep the sharp chains in the box's and the dull chain I just lay in the ammo box so I don't get them mixed up.

 

[medic5050]

I just make a plywood box with j hooks, one hook is tacked to a old kitchen drawer hinge and a bunje cord pulls tight holding chains on the hook. Keep in the toolbox , have a strip for 20,24,32 chains works great cheap to make.

Photo please.

Philbert

:agree2::msp_thumbup:

 

[mike188]

i am new to this site and my first post. i have too much to learn from this site to post a bunch lol. my dad built this box to carry everything into the woods that we need. he built his out of plywood, but it has not held up well. so he built mine out of oak. i threw in a pic of how i get wood out of the woods when its too wet for the truck. it's done more then i thought it would.

 

[Philbert]

i am new to this site and my first post.

Welcome to A.S.

Philbert

 

[mike188]

thank you

 

[Steve2910]

Forgot about this one: Old VHS and DVD cases. Should be pretty cheap at your local Blockbuster store right now.

Uniform appearance. Slip discretely into your Powerbox case. Cut resistant. Easy to label.

Plus, you can store your chains in the walnut book cases in your study, and look like you are a member of the upper crust selecting a treasured episode of 'Masterpiece Theater', instead of some Bubba grabbing a loop of 33LGX to score free firewood.

Bigger loops will not fit into the DVD cases. You can separate smaller loops in the VHS with pieces of cardboard or thin foam.

Philbert

Redbox/Netflix ran my local Blockbuster out of business

 

[Philbert]

Redbox/Netflix ran my local Blockbuster out of business

Are you saying that there are no more 'chain' stores in your neighborhood?

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

How They Might Store Their Chains in The Mediterranean . . .

Just a thought. If I has a lot of these lying around . . .

Philbert

 

[olyman]

Common methods:

- re-use package/box it came in;
- heavy duty zip-lock bags;
- peanut butter jars;
- custom made wooden box with lots of little dividers;
- hanging on a nail;
- tupperware container separated from other chains with other pieces of cardboard;


Couple of other threads on this:

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/116231.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/137092.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/89533.htm

Philbert

zip loc bag,,squeezed tight--no rusting...............