chainsaw carving - best saw?

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The Stihl MS170 is a good model for carving I believe, I've been using mine for carving art for a little while now and really like the balance, the weight, and especially the price (cost of a poulan, $180 or something). Before chainsaw carving I used it commercially for a couple of years as a climbing saw and it still runs like new. I have carved with my MS200T but didn't like it much...hands are too close together and the power is a bit overkill it seems to me. Don't want to wear it out at $600/a piece either. I rave on the 170 because of the amount of saw for the amount of money...especially for the occasional/weekend carver.
 
The Stihl MS170 is a good model for carving I believe, I've been using mine for carving art for a little while now and really like the balance, the weight, and especially the price (cost of a poulan, $180 or something). Before chainsaw carving I used it commercially for a couple of years as a climbing saw and it still runs like new. I have carved with my MS200T but didn't like it much...hands are too close together and the power is a bit overkill it seems to me. Don't want to wear it out at $600/a piece either. I rave on the 170 because of the amount of saw for the amount of money...especially for the occasional/weekend carver.

I carve with a 170 once in a while, It has an inboard clutch so it's easy to switch to 1/4 pitch. I have a ms200t and 346xp that I like for carving also.
 
I am starting to think about getting a very small saw (around 40cc and less than 10 lbs) to play with along the lines of chainsaw carving. Carving bar and dime tip.

For me lack of vibration is my main criteria, above price.

I've read the 3200EZ Redmax is nice but it isn't listed any more on the redmax site.

I know echo is popular, but I ran a small echo about 5 years ago and it was kind of buzzy (not a carving model). Their rep for carving saws is good so maybe some of the echo's are better in that regard.

One AS posting about the husky 435 seemed interesting, too.

Wish there was somewhere within a couple hours that had a range of carving saws I could try to see how they feel in my hand.
 
Hi all,

I am a chainsaw newbie, looking for a saw to start carving with. Did my chainsaw course on a Husqvarna 346 with a 15" bar, and since then have used a Stihl 021 with a 12" bar and a Stihl 026 with a 15" bar.

Saw will be used mainly for carving medium sized bits of wood, maybe also cutting firewood once a year. Can someone recommend a decent saw please? I've been looking at a Husky 340, 345 or 350 with a 15" bar to start off with, as I have been told to buy either Stihl or Husky.

Thanks,
Joe

I've been saw carving for only about three years, now, but I would recommend using your O21/250 size saw for wood cutting, and blocking out.
I use a stihl 175 for all around carving. It's lighter, and only costs about 185 bucks as opposed to the 350 plus for the 021/250 size saws. I also try to keep my carving saws separate from my tree service saws. I've noticed that carving uses up bars quicker because of the increased use of the tip.
 
ok, thanks all - what is a decent small Stihl please? Is the 021 still available, or does it have a new number?

Thanks,
Joe

I'm using a couple of 170 or 175 (I don't remember which) by stihl. I have a standard stock bar and chain on one, and carving bar with a quarter tip on the other. they're light, and cheaper than the others. Don't over use your carving bar, they get awful hot and burn up quicker than a regular one. The trick is to get as much done without going to it.
 
I am starting to think about getting a very small saw (around 40cc and less than 10 lbs) to play with along the lines of chainsaw carving. Carving bar and dime tip.

For me lack of vibration is my main criteria, above price.

I've read the 3200EZ Redmax is nice but it isn't listed any more on the redmax site.

I know echo is popular, but I ran a small echo about 5 years ago and it was kind of buzzy (not a carving model). Their rep for carving saws is good so maybe some of the echo's are better in that regard.

One AS posting about the husky 435 seemed interesting, too.

Wish there was somewhere within a couple hours that had a range of carving saws I could try to see how they feel in my hand.


Ordered a redmax g3200 CV today.
 
Top vs. Rear handle

This is kind of a loaded question, but not intentionally...let me explain.

I'm curious how you prefer your handle, it seems people carve with both top handle saws (i.e., ms200t or 338xpt) as well as rear handle saws.

I mainly need the saw to cut joinery to build a log home, but carving interests me also. This got me to thinking about the orientation of the handle on the chainsaw, in view of the type of joinery being cut. But I have used a rear handle mostly, and know that I orient/feel the blade while I'm cutting.

I could see where a rear handle could be preferred when carving. But what is your take on that, some of you that have mentioned using both top handle and rear (i.e., troutfisher, RobbinW).

I realize you guys are carving and not doing log joinery as I intend, and why I mentioned my question is slightly loaded, yet not intentionally. It seems having my hand oriented on top might be preferred for cutting dovetails, just not sure yet and my plan has been to go with a rear handle.

Regards,
TT
 
In a response in the Chainsaw fora, and in talking with a log craftsman I'm working with, a rear handle is preferred for this type of work.

Given that, I'm curious is anyone is using the Husqvarna 336 for any carving work? I see reference to one higher up in the thread, but just as a recommendation.

Cheers,
TT
 
Good Advice?

I am a weekend carver with the intent of becoming more serious as time and finances permit. I use a small echo for some roughing out and a 440 (?) for my blocking. I finish with hand tools (good therapy).
But I want to get a carving bar and chain for the small saw now to satisfy curiosity and increase productivity. Can anyone recommend bars and tips?
Many Thanks...
 
I am a weekend carver with the intent of becoming more serious as time and finances permit. I use a small echo for some roughing out and a 440 (?) for my blocking. I finish with hand tools (good therapy).
But I want to get a carving bar and chain for the small saw now to satisfy curiosity and increase productivity. Can anyone recommend bars and tips?
Many Thanks...

Hello and welcome to AS.
Cannon makes a pretty good bar and you can get a dime tip or a 1/4 tip in different lengths.
I also do a lot of finish work by hand.
 
bars and chains

Mark,

Anyone you trust more than the other? Where do you buy yours at?

Regards....T
 
Mark,

Anyone you trust more than the other? Where do you buy yours at?

Regards....T

Honestly, I can't rember where I got my last one, it was a couple years ago. I have a saw shop I deal with that is in Southern Michigan, but I'm sure Baileys (a sponsor) will help you out, they are great and have helped me several times.
 
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Clayton Coss ... chainsaw carver extraordinaire... has done a ton of carvings in the Tulsa area.

hands down the most well known chainsaw carver in this part of the country. watched him work several times. Coss uses a fleet of Shindaiwa chainsaws ... all different sizes.

http://www.chainsawsculpturesbycoss.com/

img1.gif


Eagle5.jpg
 
Wow, cool eagle.

The legs almost look human like with feathers. :)

Nice carving.

I've been pondering trying to do a griffin with an eagle head and wings. I would be ecstatic if it came out like that! :)

Regards,
TT
 
One thing that I am coming to realize is the there is a lot of variability in carving bar "lengths" between manufactures and saws and since the bars are so short it mattes alot whereas with normal cutting a little doesn't matter.

I just measured my 12 inch sugihara bar on my redmax 3200 and it protrudes around 11.5 inches from the saw. It's a great bar and bar length.

I measured the 12 inch Cannon bar on my 346 husky and it protrudes around 9 inches. Shorter than I had in mind when I bought it, especially for that saw.

So just be aware of it when you order bars. So I would prefer a 16 inch Cannon (which would act more like a 13 inch bar) to what I have except it would weight more than I want.

It's a little maddening as these things are like 60 to 95 bucks a pop.
 
what's amazing is the sheer number of works by Clayton Coss.
his chainsaw sculptures are scattered all over Tulsa.

the details he achieves with a chainsaw is flat amazing!
heck of a nice guy too...

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Wow, cool eagle.

The legs almost look human like with feathers. :)

Nice carving.

I've been pondering trying to do a griffin with an eagle head and wings. I would be ecstatic if it came out like that! :)

Regards,
TT
 
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didnt read any of the other posts but this comes from a lot of collective experience. right now i use big husky saws i.e. xp series for the block outs. the smaller stihl saws are unmatched in reliablity, i like the 025 or ms250 for a 50 cent tip or even for a small block out saw with the stock 16" setup it works great. as for the finish saw i use an echo 306, or 345. i like them because they are light and the design gives you maximum control over the tail of the saw. you can use a stihl ms 210 but it tends to be bulky and heavier and a little too aggresive for detailed carving. i have heard good stuff about the tanaka ecs 3351 i think it is, its available on bailey's as part of a carving package but i havent used it myself so i couldnt tell you. if you have any questions just let me know dude. By the way this info is from a PRO wood carver and these are the saws i use day in and day out with excellent results:

husky 357xp 18" bar 3/8 chain
stihl 029 super 16" bar 3/8 chain (dont recommend but picked it up cheap!)
stihl 025 16" bar .325 chain (smaller block out, as stated above)
echo 306 12" carving bar 1/4" chain
echo 306 08" carving bar 1/4" chain

this is what works for me
 
Here's what I view as ideal carving saws:

7900 for mid sized blocking and noodling

346NE with 16 inch quarter for serious roughing

redmax 3800 or 339ne for finer quick roughing

redmax 3200 for detail


One issue with the redmaxes for most of us is parts aren't as easily as available.

Full skip square ground chisel on the 7900 and bigger saws, Stihl 13 RMS 1/4 on the carving bars.
 
It's been a while!

Hi All, It's been quite some time since I was here. Amazing how time flies by so quickly as we get older. A little more experience & experiences under my belt since my last post. I now teach an accredited Chainsaw Sculpture course at a renown college here in Ontario. The Haliburton School of the arts http://www.haliburtonschoolofthearts.ca/
& I teach private lessons at my studio here in Ontario also.
Here is a link to photos from my 2008 class.
http://s49.photobucket.com/albums/f251/RobbinW/Haliburton%2008/
& the 2009 class!
http://s49.photobucket.com/albums/f251/RobbinW/Haliburton%2009/
A pic of a few of the saws I have & supply to the students at the classes
View attachment 118176

View attachment 118177
I hosted or I should say My Wife, friends & I hosted the First Canadian Carv-a-Palooza the end of March this year with 17 carvers from all over Ontario taking part for the event. We all had a great time & will be doing it again at a new location this coming year & hoping to make it a little longer in duration with more seminars & may even have some international carvers attending this years event also!
Here is link to a slide show of the good times had by all!
http://s49.photobucket.com/albums/f251/RobbinW/Carvapalooza%202009/?action=view&current=9b18c277.pbw
My website was recently damaged beyond repair by Yahoo Geocities but to keep up with my sculptures here is a link to my Facebook photo albums.
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?ref=name&id=643211100#/profile.php?v=photos&ref=name&id=643211100
Thanks & hope you enjoy & by the way the G3200EZ Redmax with the same bar & chain (12 Sugi Hara with the new Stihl carving chain, in Canada RMC13) is way superior for detail extent & minimal vibration as compared to the MS200 Stihl. I have tested this about half a dozen times by switching out the exact same bar/chain combination & has proven the difference to me clearly!
Thanks, Robbin
 
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