Chainsaw filing tricks,secrets

[hammer0419]

I have tried many sharpeners over the years. Reciently purchased the Stihl FG2 sharpener. Holy crap is it good!! Expensive but it will pay for itself quickly.

 

[Tiewire]

One of the things that helped me alot was getting saw secure when filing. Either a good stump vise or vise on workbench at home. Does not matter as much now that I got me a nice grinder that I probably do 75% of sharpening with now.

 

[farmboss45]

I hit my chains with a dremel before going to the woods, [or now when things are slow and I am hiding in the shop from the wife] And as long as I don't "rock" out the chain, I am set for the day. Meaning a couple of hours of falling and bucking lengthes. This method has done well for me for years, a good "eyeball" on the angle, as long as I have a good rest for my hand, I get what I need.

 

[demc570]

just got done filing two chains for my old man,3 glasses of whiskey,stihl file, at the kitchen table,stihl havent gotten the new husky file guide they where closed today................
:msp_smile:

 

[MGoBlue]

Timberline. Phil is still giving the promo price.

Which is what? I'm ready to pull the trigger on one and need this info if you have it.

 

[Eric Modell]

I grind and file both. If I am getting serious with a file I will use two file handles, one on both ends of the file.

 

[Butch(OH)]

Been mentioned here a couple times already but it doesn't get any more important than having the saw clamped down so it doesn't move. Best way is in good heavy bench vise mounted at comfortable height under a light. When you get good there then proceed to a stump vise and when you think you are an expert then on the tailgate of a truck for an education. None of the filing gadgets are worth beans when the saw is rolling around under them but my favored crutch is the plain old Oregon flat plate type file holder as sold anywhere that sells chain. When about 1/3 of the tooth is gone set the rakers with a guage and again at 2/3 gone. File the gullets out when half gone too if your after tenths in the cut. All I keep in my field box is files with handles on them but we take 4-5 saws with us when we go out
How do you know when you are doing a good job? When you make noodles out of your bar covers every time you put them on and they hardly make it a year without being shredded all the way through.

 

[Mac88]

I Make sure the chain is snug, put the saw on the bench, rest the bar on a block of 2 by, grab the top of the bar with a gloved hand, and file with the other. Re-tension the chain when done. Works for me.

 

[zogger]

Quite a few folks have recommended these...PFERD Chain Saw Files & Accessories for sharpening tooth and filing rakers at the same time. I have never tried it because it works only on full comp chain and I run full skip. Seems like a good setup to me. I still hand file with the old OREGON brand products, chain saw chain and guide bars, accessories, and mower blades for homeowners ,works every time...:msp_thumbsup:

I have the husky branded version of the earlier pferd model, works really well. The cost of the flat files sucks though. You can use any round file of the correst size but the flat files are some custom design. More like a file bar, no tang to them at all. I have to admit though I havent looked to see if I could ind generic replacements based on size and cut size, fineness

they are fast though, being able to do cutter and depth gauge with the same strokes is really nice. And no question about getting them even. You still have to eyeball and feel your up and down angle though.

 

[wayabs]

Hi,new to site,nice to meet ya all! I HAVE been sharping my own chains for 5 years or so,wandering what your best methods,and or mistakes are?.......THANKYOU................HAVE A HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!! :msp_smile:

I'm new too and the only trick I know is conning someone else into doing it.

 

[howellhandmade]

Got one of these after hearing people talk them up but I just can't seem to get the hang of that thing. Maybe I'm not smart enough to use it. I use the old Oregon guide the attaches to the file. Also have an ancient Belsaw grinder that is likely older than I am. Only use it when I've really hogged one up.

I like the Husky guide the best, but I can sort of remember having to come to terms with it. First, the slot that fits over the straps is a touch tight for some brands of chain, might take a swipe with a flat file to deburr it. Also, make sure you don't have it on the chain backwards. The surest way to tell that you've got it the wrong way round is that it doesn't work. You have to hold the jig securely with your free hand.

 

[rtrsam]

Filing a saw:
Methods include keeping a properly sharpened tooth available (factory edge of the type of tooth you're running) to compare your fiing job to; judge depth of gullet, top and side plate angles.

Make certain you're not going so deep in the gullet that you're starting to file the side straps between the links (90% of the busted chains I have encountered you could see where a tire strap broke from filing too deep). If you need to go that deep to get a proper top plate angle, get a smaller file.

Always file from the inside of the tooth out; outside of tooth is chrome covered and your file will quickly dull if you try filing from the outside inward (file tries to cut the harder chrome instead of cutting the softer base metal under the chrome and allowing the chrome to flake off). On the topic of files, be sure to use the entire toothed portion of the file; full strokes. You paid for a whole file, don't just use the center portion of the teeth. Periodically rotate the file, tap it against the bench (or wipe it on your chaps) between teeth to knock off metal filings.

Wear gloves! Worst saw injuries I've had came from punching a sharp tooth when the file jumped out of the tooth I was filing. On that note, if I'm sharpening a seriously dull saw, I'll always file the right hand cutters first, those are the ones where if the file slips I'll end up punching the chain with the back of my hand; thus I'm more likely to punch a dull tooth. Also, advance the sharp teeth to the nose of the bar as I file, again I'm less likely to punch against a sharp tooth if my file slips.

These are things I've learned from thirty five years of hand filing saws. Also, newer saw teeth are much harder to focus your eyes on than the chains manufactured in the 1970's and 1980's. Unless you can find some of this vintage chain, be prepared to have some sort of visual assistance in teh form of bright light and possibly bi-focals.

 

[Cbird14]

Eyeball.

bought a file guide. set it on chain. told self this sucks. threw file guide in scrap iron pile. used common sense and my God given eyes to sharpen chain. sharp enough to shave with. thank you.

 

[Marc]

I have the husky branded version of the earlier pferd model, works really well. The cost of the flat files sucks though. You can use any round file of the correst size but the flat files are some custom design. More like a file bar, no tang to them at all. I have to admit though I havent looked to see if I could ind generic replacements based on size and cut size, fineness

they are fast though, being able to do cutter and depth gauge with the same strokes is really nice. And no question about getting them even. You still have to eyeball and feel your up and down angle though.

Raker file on the Pferd/Husky guide is expensive but lasts a while. I think I replace one for about every 10 or 15 round files I replace.

 

[slowp]

See the cover on the bar of my Barbie Saw? That's made of a cheapo backpacking sleeping pad. Duck tape holds it together.

Our climate is usually damp. The ground is damp and that can be hard on mature knees. The pad is used a couple of ways--when I'm cutting open trails, I can carry the saw on either shoulder with that on, and when I need to sharpen the chain, I can kneel on that pad and file away with the saw on the ground. My faithful companion, The Used Dog, carries the accessories if he is allowed to go along.

I freehand file. I tried to use a guide and couldn't do it. I got the knack in 1981, then didn't work with a saw as much. I started more a few years ago, and it does take a while to get it back. And yes, I have metal shavings coming off. I also file down the rakers--just hit them a couple of times with a cute little flat file, on every third filing of the chain--if I can remember.

The pad also is good to sit on when a break is needed. Mmmmm, Poptarts and dog treats!


View attachment 271199

 

[Mac88]

Your dog looks happy to tote your accessories. He is missing the St. Bernard keg under his chin though.

 

[El Quachito]

I sharpen with a File-n-Joint. Works for me. The more you sharpen the better you get.

 

[wat648]

anyone vary from factory angles? Tilt the file instead of holding it level?

 

[Cbird14]

anyone vary from factory angles? Tilt the file instead of holding it level?

i havent had a need to do that. if i was going to do some ripping i might take one chain and change the degree a bit. and doing that is a bit tricky as to get everyone the same so u dont start cutting to one side or the other. only if i would happen to rock a chain will i ever use a chain grinder.

 

[WidowMaker]

I use a handle on the file. The drags get the flat file. No guide on them either. After awhile you'll get the feel & eye.

=====


Or a REALLY F"ed up chain....