Chainsawing?

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mopar969

ArboristSite Operative
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Before I begin I found this sight when I was looking for a grapple load near my house. I have a 42 cc 18" Craftsmen chainsaw brand new.

I am currently wanting to switch from an oil furnace to a wood furnace because of the cheaper price to operate. Also, because I have 6.5 acres of woods on my property. I am new to chainsawing and I am aware about being safe. However, is all this work worth the risk or should I stick with oil and pay 2100 dollars a winter. I know that there is alot of safety needed with chainsaws so I am buying chaps, helmet, ear muffs, face shield, steel toe boots, and gloves. I wanted to know what I need to do to have a safe chainsawing following my owners manual of course. Does anybody have a pdf manual they would recommend for me as a first time chainsawer.

Do You think I am just over worried. I would like to save money but at the same time I have heard some horror stories and I don't want to lose a body part, especially considering I need to use the chain saw every summer.

P.S. What do you guys use to protect your arms, and will leather gloves from harbor freight work or do I need the better baileys chain saw gloves. Also, how often do you sharpen and or replace you chain.

Thanks guys for all advice. I figure that as long as I am aware of the safety issues with a chainsaw I am less likely to have a problem, but since I am new at this I want to know how dangers they are!
 
You'll need more than 6.5 acres to heat a home. You can get brush jackets from Baileys. Look into finding information on removal and growth. Rule of thumb is 1cord=1acre. Typically your land can grow back what you use then.
 
I look at it in terms of investment versus cost over a period of time greater than a year. If your into the existing furnace for $2100.00 a year, think of that over the course of the next ten years and what your initial expense of a new wood furnace, upgrading to a pro level firewood saw and a splitter etc. is going to cost you up front.

After year number three your initial investment should start paying you back every year from then on out. That's providing you don't go crazy and buy a new four wheeler, five or six new saws and a skid steer to make life that much easier to get the cutting, hauling and splitting all done.

You can do a whole lot with a garden tractor and cart, a quality 60-75cc saw and a 20 ton hydraulic splitter without breaking the bank.

Safety comes with experience and paying close attention to your surroundings while you work. You'll find all the answers to your questions over time right here, there's a wealth of knowledge at your fingertips for the asking when you run into a problem or want some advice before tackling something that's new to you.
 
About $4500 is what I paid for my outdoor wood boiler. Then there was another 750 to 1000 to buy the pump, coil, pex, valves and other hardware necessary to install it. I love the heat and my house stays warmer than it would using any other type of heat. But, it takes a whole lot of wood to heat it, and I live in NC where it is not notorious for being incredibly cold. You will need more than 6.5 acres of wooded land but you will make connections with people that want trees taken down and wood removed once word gets round that your burning wood.
 
I grew up heating the house with wood. Learned how to run a saw when I was big enough. Taught my kids the same lessons. We have some 50 acres that we remove storm damage and selected trees to heat our home. That said, I have not cut a live tree from my acreage in the last 5 years. We have been lucky to salvage a tree here and there for friends and neighbors plus getting access to clear cuts. Owning a couple of saws, a truck and a wood splitter keeps us with enough wood to stay warm no matter the cost of oil or electricity. Also saves a membership or two to a gym/health club. We get to enjoy time outside the home together when preparing our wood. Kids have learned loads about stewardship of a mixed hardwood forest and the associated wildlife... Why we do not support a pine plantation and such.

So, it's your call in my opinion as to the cost savings. The side benefits are great and I will be burning wood as long as I can.
 
I should of informed you guys of my plan. My plan is to install the englandar add on wood furnace at Home Depot. I plan to cut the dead trees on my property to heat my house for the first year. I want to save the money from switching to wood to go to Disney world with my family. Then for each year from now I will by grapple loads. One tree fell at the end of my property and honestly it is as big as a dinosaur. I think that I can get a cord just from the tree. It is 36 inches wide. Below is a pic. So, I don't think the one acre gives one cord can apply to me.

I am just questioning how dangerous a chain saw is since I am a new user. I think that as long as I know the safety issues I am less likely to have a problem. Thanks for any more new advice I appreciate it. That is what I wanted to ask you guys. View attachment 285204
View attachment 285205
 
I am just questioning how dangerous a chain saw is since I am a new user.

They are dangerous! However, used correctly, they are a very useful tool. Your learning curve would depend on your experience around machines. You'll have to determine this. You may want to take a class or find an experienced person to get you started. Just like learning how to drive, as you know, there's more to driving than knowing where the key goes.

A sharp chain is important to reduce fatigue on you and the saw.
 
Chainsaws are dangerous and so are woodstoves/furnaces. So are many other things we so all the time without thinking, like driving a car. It's also a lot of work physically, and nowhere near as convenient as an oil or gas fired heating system. Any of this can be learned and done, it depends on your interests and aptitude - it is kind of a lifestyle choice. Nonetheless, many of us love it.

The cost issue is maybe not so simple as it seems, it depends on what you expect to happen to oil. Personally I expect huge cost increase and shortages in the not too distant future, but others will disagree with me. Regardless, things change, so when you contemplate a change and investment like this you need to think about what you expect to happen, both in terms of energy costs and with your own circumstances.

The most important thing to consider with a wood fired system is the chimney - post over at http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/ for more info about that.
 
1. Read on this site, and look at pictures, and buy/read Beranek's book, focusing on the portions that apply to what you're doing (but read the rest, too, it's interesting).

2. Watch the HusqvarnaWorldwide safety/how-to videos on YouTube.

3. Buy a good saw. Run a relatively short bar on it - fewer cutters to sharpen, forces you to use good technique.

4. Learn to use wedges, to plunge cut safely, and to "read" what the trees/logs are going to do before they do it.

5. Get together with other saw people who actually know what they're doing. Try other saws, other chains, learn new techniques. Make new friends in the process.
 
It's like safety in the machine trade.

Spin 3 jaws at 30 lbs each on a 24" chuck at 850 rpm.

Driven by a 60 hp motor.

It's not a big lathe.

We tell beginners;

That lathe is perfectly safe......as long as you remember how Fu€£ing dangerous it is!!!!!
 
My advice;
1-Never use a chainsaw by your self. Have a friend, family member, or even just a young teen that can use a cell phone that can call for the proper help if needed. Also just having another brain to look and observe things that your self can over look.


2-Never get in a hurry. let your head work more to think things out than what you can work to get a days job done. (Pay attention)


3- Handle the chainsaw in a clear work area. Don't try to cut around anything that you can get hung up in or on, or trip or fall with a running saw in your hand. I know an idiot guy trying to cut a tree down as he was wrapped up in a thorn bush.


4-If you do have an incident or a near incident, think what you done wrong to make conditions better BEFORE YOU MOVE ON!!!


Other people above listed wonderful advice as well. Chainsaw dealerships have free brochures and operator's manuals to spare with good safety tips.


Along with the price of equipment listed above, The most injuries I see with this business are in the back. So if you are out of shape to handle a saw and the firewood, $2100 is pennies compared to the operation table.


Their is most likely someone here in AS to help you out in the forest with thoughts and ideas in your area. If you were closer to my front door I surely would.


What I think you are trying to do is have a 2 type heat system. The idea works well if its properly installed right. I work in the HVAC industry (and other that I work in too) and its how most people like it.


Have a safe and happy time cutting!
 
Again. No monkeypaw.

YouTube has a video on every stupid thing you can do with a saw.

A lot you never thought about.

Over confidence is a killer.

Go to a GTG.

Soon you will be buying saws. You won't be able to afford oil any more.

I warned ya.
 
I used to own a place with just 6 acres, all wooded. I had no problem heating my house with wood off that 6 acres, but I was clearing it too at the same time. I also took 8K feet of white pine off the land and when I sold it 7 years later, it was still mostly wooded.

Were it me, I'd look around for a safety course or at least view a mess of safety videos. Your little Craftsman is fine for limbing and such, but you may want something a bit larger if you get into this. Used splitters are available. Personally, I don't wear gloves and chaps all the time, much less steel toes or high dollar kevlar type stuff. I suppose I should, but I think you can encumber yourself past the point of common sense too. Then again, I've been using saws, axes, etc. for 40 years. Dang...I'm getting old.

I'd say go for it. Fuel isn't going to get any cheaper.
 
If you use sense, skill and don't become complacent, chainsaws are not an issue.

But equally, poor use will get you.

If you are doing bigger work, such as decent size hardwood logs, and not knowing your age etc, you will benefit from a bigger saw.

I have 3 now, a 40cc Husqvarna, a 60cc husky that has been modified (more comment later) and a 70cc Husqvarna 576xp autotune.

The small saw got used to cut some ~6" logs on Saturday. Capable but slower due to engine size and smaller .325 cutters. To finish off a load yesterday I was back there but used the 70cc and it was much quicker as it didn't bog in the dry timber. Harder work though, especially with a 24" bar.

The autotune on Husky is also a good thing for the non mechanically inclined, as apart from one point yesty when the 576 had been bucking up the big green tree a mate had dropped, it starts and goes a charm. However in the thick bark and other crap, it got rather hot and didn't want to restart for a fair while after emptying a tank. But that would have been 40 to 50 full trunk cuts in a row.... Very sharp chain too.....

My summary, a good large saw, safety gear of helmet/hearing/face screen and safety glasses (or in my case normal glasses), steel cap boots (as a minimum) as one log round will get your toes on uneven ground, and some chaps. Gloves optional for me but I do like the Youngstown range from Baileys as they just fit my hands well. Antivibe gloves are decent too.
 
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