That is good question
I can take .050 off with 10 strokes, it would be a good start. Agreed, those rakers look huge in the pics, in real life might not be the case.
Change in Carlton Chain
- Thread starter MrGiggles
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I can take .050 off with 10 strokes, it would be a good start. Agreed, those rakers look huge in the pics, in real life might not be the case.
SawTroll
Information Collector
I really like the small rakers and small ramps of the LP/LPX - those chains are both fast and smooth in the cut! 
They also are easy to sharpen, and get really sharp.
They also are easy to sharpen, and get really sharp.
SawTroll
Information Collector
It's a pity that I can't like my own posts here! 
Got them for you Niko!
Philbert
Philbert
SawTroll
Information Collector
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Pissin match! Go get em Sawtroll, you young punk! Lol
What were we all talkin about? Don't tell me it was about chain!
What were we all talkin about? Don't tell me it was about chain!
SawTroll
Information Collector
To some it may be a real discussion, but to others it is just what you suggested - a pissing match.
I posted like it was a real discussion - maybe I shouldn't have?
I will always "get them", if I find that warranted - no worries about that!
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
No Troll, stay out of all chain, pitch and bar length discussions and they'll all love ya, if they don't already.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Surely, but that won't happen - I don't care who "loves" or "hate" me on here - it is what it is.....
7/32 is larger than 13/64. I like to use 7/32 on Stihl chain, even though they recommend 13/64. Moot point though, I use square file now.
Stihl chain may not get as sharp as other brands (so not as good for racing), but in hardwood, it will hold it's edge longer, so it is what I use.
Stihl chain may not get as sharp as other brands (so not as good for racing), but in hardwood, it will hold it's edge longer, so it is what I use.
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Is this a call for help Nick?
How far is it from the Yukon to Norway?
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
It's actually similar hook, just larger. It's only less hook if you don't have your file low enough.
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
My comment was related to newer Stihl saws oiling less than older models. Without a doubt the newer style drivelinks are designed to compensate for this as the old Stihl chain didn't have an issue oiling under some of the toughest conditions you'll come across. Carlton, Oregon, Windsor etc have never had oiling issues either.
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
The last few Lo Pro Stihl chains I've used, have had a no groove, a round hole & a number of small pimple's in the drive links but the latest one just had a round hole
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yep & it blew away a half used chain in cutting speed,this was cutting pine
SawTroll
Information Collector
Niko, I have learned a bunch from your posts and will continue to keep my ears open!!! The chains you prefer are spot on!!!
As far as 7/32 filing 3/8 chain, if you knock the rakers down first, then use a stihl file guide w 7/32, you can get a little more hook. I use 13/64 and save the 7/32 for .404.
I have used the 7/32 first 3-4 strokes, then use a 13/64 on a stihl guide with a smooth cut pferd file, gives a nicer hook and bigger gullet.
As far as the holes, dimples, and damms-- I don't think I notice a big difference, they all get clogged up after a while and need cleaned
I got some of those carbide burrs from baileys on sale 2 bucks each, I use them to grind out the gullets, does a nice quick job and saves the files for the cutting edges.
Still trying to learn how to square file, but for day in, day out cutting the round is faster and easier for me. I always use a chainsaw chain vise so I have no wiggle while sharpening.
As far as 7/32 filing 3/8 chain, if you knock the rakers down first, then use a stihl file guide w 7/32, you can get a little more hook. I use 13/64 and save the 7/32 for .404.
I have used the 7/32 first 3-4 strokes, then use a 13/64 on a stihl guide with a smooth cut pferd file, gives a nicer hook and bigger gullet.
As far as the holes, dimples, and damms-- I don't think I notice a big difference, they all get clogged up after a while and need cleaned
I got some of those carbide burrs from baileys on sale 2 bucks each, I use them to grind out the gullets, does a nice quick job and saves the files for the cutting edges.
Still trying to learn how to square file, but for day in, day out cutting the round is faster and easier for me. I always use a chainsaw chain vise so I have no wiggle while sharpening.
The photo angle probably isn't helping things, and it's also from the wrong side for a good comparison. I did also notice that when the saw got mid-way through a big log (using all of the bar) it was very grabby and rough cutting. The Semi isn't nearly as bad about that.
It might be a bit crude, but I have to drive 30 miles and spend 20+ dollars a loop for Stihl chain, or Oregon for 22 dollars.. This is 8 miles away and only costs 15.00 per 18" loop.
It might be a bit crude, but I have to drive 30 miles and spend 20+ dollars a loop for Stihl chain, or Oregon for 22 dollars.. This is 8 miles away and only costs 15.00 per 18" loop.
D
Deleted member 83629
Guest
i usually buy carlton anymore the local saw shop can make me a loop for around 12$ and that is 12''-20''
the stihl dealer about 35 miles away charges 25$ for a 16''-20''.
the stihl dealer about 35 miles away charges 25$ for a 16''-20''.
This dealer charges 12 bucks for a 16" loop and it goes up incrementally from there. The 25" 3/8 loop costs 18.00 plus tax if I remember right.
