Chrysler Chainsaw
- Thread starter ms290
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I'm pretty sure the motor on that saw is a 820 PowerBee. Chrysler built quite a few of those motors. I have a Chrysler 820 PowerBee motor I'm using to build my mill with. Parts are very easy to obtain for those motors still. Only parts that are hard to find are clutches. Take real good care of yours they are like finding hens teeth.
Attached is a picture of the motor mounted on the mill. The Chrysler motors had the tightest tolerances so they lasted a long time. I've also posted a picture of a MONGOMERY WARDS saw that also used the 820 PowerBee motors. What do you plan to do with your saw? I use mine to cut large trees for firewood.
jerry-
Hi Bill,
I still have my WARDS saw and use it every year. The motor on my mill was a brand new, never run Chrysler 820 PowerBee that I bought from Art Martin. He was going to build another race saw with it, but never did. A few years back I did pick up a WARDS frame at my local lawnmower shop that was cracked and headed to the recyclers. I picked it up, welded it and sold it to Art, which he ended up making it into a race saw. I was able to get the clutch from that frame and I'm using it on my mill. I don't know how many saws WARDS produced, but I don't think it was a lot. My Dad bought the saw on a used tool bench in 1967 from a local WARDS store. I think the guy who bought it brought it back because it was so heavy. I have a 28" bar on my saw and it's plenty heavy. I have up dated the saw to electronic ignition, 1"-intake/carb and Kevlar reed valves. After I choke it, it starts on the second pull. I had to build the drum to accept the .404 drive system so I can buy milling chain to fit my .063" bar. I did the same thing to the drum on the WARDS saw and it has worked for years. You cannot weld to the drum, it must be hard silver brazed. Art had a guy try to tig weld a drum, and because the drums are hardened, it cracked. I made a jig up on my lathe that held the drum and the center drive piece perfectly centered while I brazed them together. I used a plasma cutter to cut both center sections apart from the two drums I used to make the one. I have more detailed pictures if you need. See attached picture.
jerry-
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Well as for mine i just plan on restoring it and then just taking it out on a special occasion. Mostly just a show piece. Now will someone plz send me in the direction of some parts? I need a new coil and wrap handle and a new clutch. The teeth are so worn its almost in the bearing.
and along that line--was thinking one day(dangerous). why couldnt a person get some hard facing rod, or wire for the mig, and weld up worn teeth, then grind them back down to original???? youd have to take your time, or you might melt the brazing-----
Bill G
ArboristSite King
I have many of the parts you need. Please get a better picture of that model tag as I belive you have a smaller engine. It does not appaer to be a 820 powered saw and I want to get you the right parts.
Bill
I don't think that would be an easy task. Using hard facing to try filling worn spots on the drum gear would not have a a consistent hard surface. If you are restoring the saw not to be used... maybe. Don't wreck a saw if you can get another good part.
my .05 cents...
jerry-
Bill G
ArboristSite King
I have offered to try and help you with parts but I need to know what saw you have. I asked you to get a better picture of the model tag. I do not believe that is a Root 82. It looks like a Root 50HL which has the smaller Power Bee engine. What are all the numbers on the Root tag and the engine tag? I believe if you look at the engine tag where it says "engine model" you will find a number such as 50002. I need to know what that number is and what the Root tag has on it.
Bill
Bill G
ArboristSite King
Hello Jerry,
I cannot find any originals. I am working on adapting one. I believe I am very close. It will be a complete clutch and drum setup or just a drum depending on what is needed. The drum will not use a standard needle bearing it will have a oilite bushing.
There are at least 3 different clutch sizes for the 820 engines. The Root and Indian saws used a 3" I believe. The Whitehead, Wards, and Lancaster use a 3.5" I believe. There are also 4" clutches out there. I am concentrating on the 3.5 clutches.
Bill
Bill,
I think we talked on the phone about this awhile back. Keep me posted on what you find that works. I used that last clutch and drum I had from a saw that I picked up awhile back and adapted the .404 drive to the drum. It's on the mill I've been building which all I need to do now is get a couple of chains and make the air filter adapter. Then it will be ready to test on a couple of ash logs I've set aside.
Later,
jerry-
Bill G
ArboristSite King
Hello Jerry.
I enjoyed talking last winter. What type of air filter are you wanting to run? It looks like from your picture that you have plenty of room for a K&N filter. If so then they can easily be found.
Bill
I enjoyed talking last winter. What type of air filter are you wanting to run? It looks like from your picture that you have plenty of room for a K&N filter. If so then they can easily be found.
Bill
Bill,
It was good talking to you about the clutches for the 820 motors. I stopped working on the mill for a while to finish up a bathroom re-model I had started. It's done now so I'm back to the mill project along with playing in my band. When your retired there just so many things to do. I don't know how I ever got things done while I was working.
The guy at our local lawnmower/saw shop in town said if I brought the carb. down to him he could set me up with a K&N filter setup. I have been reading the threads on the milling section, and fine saw dust seems to be a pretty big problem getting into the motors and varnishing piston skirts. This motor is brand new and I don't want to take any chances with wrecking by letting wood dust getting into it.
jerry-
It's not a Root saw with the 820 motor. It looks like a West Bend 510 engine. The shroud and recoil starter is wrong for the 610/820.
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