Converted an MS250C to an MS250

[SmackieMackie]

I can post the part numbers you need to change it over. It's really not too hard and the best place to get parts is ebay.

Can you post part numbers, please? I'm quickly outgrowing my MS170 and have a 250C that I'd like to convert. Thanks!

 

[stihl 01]

i have seen several ms 250c, come though the shop lately some with the standard chain and bar set up and some with the new side mount adjuster as long as the tension is set and the lever locked into place i haven't seen to many problems but i don't use them much i just repair them for stihl as far as the price for berings and such stihl sets the price we just sell them sorry . If u have a dealer who is really being an a****** and belive me i have run into my shear, I would go to stihl.com and i would file a complaint.They take it serious.

 

[Captain Bruce]

The tensioner was pretty easy. You need one more bar stud, the nuts, and the bar/chain adjuster. The slot for the bar adjuster is already there, you just have to remove a small aluminum I beam looking piece that is used as a filler. Once that's out drop in the adjuster and screw in the self tapping screw that hold it in place. Then you just have to remove the sprocket wheel from the bar, which is done by removing one screw.

Funny thing about the starter is that there are two different flywheels for the easy start and the standard. If you bought it new I would guess the shop that sold it changed it out and put the easy start onto another customers ms250. I did find a couple of instances of people putting the easy start into the standard saw.


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Thanks. I have done this many times. I thank YOU, for explaining it to these other rocket scientists' who seem to feel pulling this simple mechanical task off, is like a engineering feat? ALL the parts are identified on the "Spare Part List" 1301. Thanks again, BB

 

[Terry martin]

Wouldn't you know it! I am 77 yrs old, rather inexperienced with chain saws, so bought one on eBay that's supposed to be easy to start(Stihl ms250c) I hate 2 cycle engines that you have to pull 20 times to start. Now I find out that my troubles are just beginning ! I haven't even unpacked this thing yet and hear negative things about the 250c model.
If the last poster would provide me with part numbers and description of parts, I will try to locate them and be ready for conversion . Thanks to all you guys.

 

[Paul Butalla]

I had this in another area, but found your question so added it here in case you've still got the saw. From my experience doing this, the main differences between the two variants are: the MS 250 C has the E2S recoil system, compression relief valve on the cylinder, different carb with a remote primer bulb, additional fuel lines and a fuel vent, plus a Quick Tensioner chain bar adjustment. The MS 250 has none of that.

I bought an MS-250C. After a while I got tired of the Quick Tensioner (OEM part 112300701008) bar loosening up and the disconnected feel of the E2S recoil start ( OEM part 1123 080 2108). So I bought an OEM recoil starter assembly for the MS 250 (1123 080 2104) and an aftermarket flywheel for the MS-250 (OEM Part 1123 400 1203) along with an aftermarket MS-250 bar tensioner assembly (OEM part 1123 007 1004) , bar studs (OEM part 1123 664 2400) , bar stud nuts (OEM part 0000 955 0804), and chain cover (OEM part 1123 640 1705) . I sourced all of my parts from Amazon and eBay, except for a woodruff key from Ace Hardware. Important addition, some of the aftermarket flywheels I saw on Amazon and eBay were out of phase - you have to view the picture to make sure the magnets on the flywheel are in the same position relative to the crankshaft key.

I was initially worried I would have to replace the coil and spark plug wire assembly, but that wasn't necessary. On the engine side you can go back and forth just by swapping the recoil starter assembly and flywheel. I should note that the OEM flywheels have a key cast into the shaft opening where some aftermarket parts do not, which was the case with mine. I bought a woodruff key from Ace Hardware and filed it down to fit. The compression relief valves, carbs, primer bulbs, vent lines, etc, or lack thereof. are not critical. Even though the coils between variants are different, it also doesn't matter. The chain bar adjustment systems are interchangeable also. So you can have an Easy 2 Start system or not, and a Quick Tensioner system or not, your choice. You can make an MS 250 C into a modified MS 250 and the reverse.

I did buy an Zama OEM carb rebuild kit for the carb, which was really all it took to get the saw running again. But I'm really pleased to have a near MS 250 that runs flat out.

Any questions I'm happy to answer. Cheers and happy woodcutting!