MS250

[a. palmer jr.]

I've converted several of the MS250 saws over from easy start to conventional but have encountered a problem with the latest one. I changed the starter and flywheel with the conventional ones, put it together and get no spark. I'm wondering if this saw takes a different module or if I have one with a defective ignition. I think some of the 250C models have a different module location, like the ms280 but this one is in the standard place to the rear of the flywheel, not above it. I checked the flywheel and it's the right part number and the magnets and locating key are in the same place as the flywheel I took off.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I would vote,defective module as it has been my experience that any module I could bolt in and adjust air gap close enough to spec would give me spark, some would give me spark but either retarded or advanced but all would give spark unless it had a defective timing chip in it.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I would vote,defective module as it has been my experience that any module I could bolt in and adjust air gap close enough to spec would give me spark, some would give me spark but either retarded or advanced but all would give spark unless it had a defective timing chip in it.

My thought also. I know when you put a MS170 flywheel in a 250 you'll get a spark but at the wrong time. They both fit and look alike to the untrained eye..

 

[pioneerguy600]

If you are not getting any spark at all I would try swapping in another module from a good running saw for a try, it`s the first thing I do when there is a no spark condition, it is easier when one has several saws of the same or close size/model in the herd.

 

[Gabby3545]

I've converted several of the MS250 saws over from easy start to conventional but have encountered a problem with the latest one. I changed the starter and flywheel with the conventional ones, put it together and get no spark. I'm wondering if this saw takes a different module or if I have one with a defective ignition. I think some of the 250C models have a different module location, like the ms280 but this one is in the standard place to the rear of the flywheel, not above it. I checked the flywheel and it's the right part number and the magnets and locating key are in the same place as the flywheel I took off.

As a 78 yo ol' broad, it its beyond me why anyone would make a saw harder to start.

 

[2StrokeFondler]

As a 78 yo ol' broad, it its beyond me why anyone would make a saw harder to start.

I heard lots of people drop start them, which destroys the easy start over time. I never had problems starting 025/250s, so I wouldn't care for easy start either. But I wouldn't spend money to get rid of it.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The person who owns this saw said that he has had trouble with the easy start ever since he first owned it. Didn't say if he bought it new or not. From the looks of the old easy start it appears to have had a bit of abuse. Some people just don't know how to use the easy start system..

 

[a. palmer jr.]

As a 78 yo ol' broad, it its beyond me why anyone would make a saw harder to start.

As an 80 year old man I don't know why anyone would want an MS250. In my opinion most of them are hard to start. I've got a few other saws over here that are nearly impossible for some of us older folk to pull over. I use them for displays..
I have an 029 that I converted over to 039 that's terribly hard for me to pull over, seems it was okay last year but very hard to start this year. It might well end up being parted out..

 

[tJKrider]

Some people just don't know how to use the easy start system

Had this issue with an MS211CBE when I had it. Even after instructing and showing people how to start it they still would yank on it...

 

[ZeroJunk]

We buy replacement springs for those easy starts 20 at a time.

If you will pull the handle until you feel the compression build up, then let the handle back in and pull it again it will spin right over and you will never have problems with them.

Same with non easy start if for a different reason. On a big saw pull the handle until it gets hard then let the handle back in and start again. It simply gives you a better gear ratio on the circumference of the rope on the pulley.

 

[ericm979]

Same with non easy start if for a different reason. On a big saw pull the handle until it gets hard then let the handle back in and start again. It simply gives you a better gear ratio on the circumference of the rope on the pulley.

That's a cool trick. Kinda like on a big two stroke dirt bike where you ease it over to just past compression before giving it a good kick. But different obviously.

MS250s have a small starer pulley for the engine size, that makes them harder to pull over than other saws that size.

 

[Captain Bruce]

I would vote,defective module as it has been my experience that any module I could bolt in and adjust air gap close enough to spec would give me spark, some would give me spark but either retarded or advanced but all would give spark unless it had a defective timing chip in it.

Agreed. Swapping a module, as an experiemnt, is the first test. There are 3 different flywheels so you should refer to your printed IPL before doing a key release,

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Agreed. Swapping a module, as an experiemnt, is the first test. There are 3 different flywheels so you should refer to your printed IPL before doing a key release,

I purchased the same part number flywheel that I have on my MS250. Mine usually starts okay for what it is. I checked the magnets and key for placement, magnets seemed a bit weak but seemed usable.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I think I have a new module for a Stihl 018, wonder if it would work. I know the flywheels don't interchange because of the location of the module but maybe the module itself might work? They appear to be alike but I know how that sometimes goes..

 

[Gabby3545]

As an 80 year old man I don't know why anyone would want an MS250. In my opinion most of them are hard to start. I've got a few other saws over here that are nearly impossible for some of us older folk to pull over. I use them for displays..
I have an 029 that I converted over to 039 that's terribly hard for me to pull over, seems it was okay last year but very hard to start this year. It might well end up being parted out..

Mine is a MS250C. I bought a MS270C but can't pull to start it. Stihl dealer said it was normal.
I hate getting old and puny!

 

[pioneerguy600]

As an 80 year old man I don't know why anyone would want an MS250. In my opinion most of them are hard to start. I've got a few other saws over here that are nearly impossible for some of us older folk to pull over. I use them for displays..
I have an 029 that I converted over to 039 that's terribly hard for me to pull over, seems it was okay last year but very hard to start this year. It might well end up being parted out..

I fix up 025 and MS250`S and give them to the young fellas around me that don`t have a saw but really could use one. They have no issues starting them unless the cylinders are wet from weeping carbs, then the saw acts like its nearly locked up and the recoil parts take a beating. The older Partner 500 and Jonsered 490-590 would lock up hard if the cylinder was wet, recoil covers would be the weak part that shattered when a guy with a strong arm forced the issue.

 

[spuldup]

I fix up 025 and MS250`S and give them to the young fellas around me that don`t have a saw but really could use one. They have no issues starting them unless the cylinders are wet from weeping carbs, then the saw acts like its nearly locked up and the recoil parts take a beating. The older Partner 500 and Jonsered 490-590 would lock up hard if the cylinder was wet, recoil covers would be the weak part that shattered when a guy with a strong arm forced the issue.

I have been brought 2 MS250s (non easy start) to fix due to being hard to start. Both had the weeping carb (plug always wet) issue. Both received the same treatment of a new AM adjustable carb and what is essentially a muffler delete and exhaust opening (the gasket is often smaller than the port). The oldest one has been going strong 6 years since. These seem to be choked from factory down on both fuel and air. When you let them eat and breathe they are really excellent little firewood saws in 16" or 18". They do not like part throttle in my experience. On or off.

I drop start all saws, making sure they are already under compression, so no shock to the recoil pawls. Drop start splits the work between your limbs and balances the whole thing out, for me at least.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I have been brought 2 MS250s (non easy start) to fix due to being hard to start. Both had the weeping carb (plug always wet) issue. Both received the same treatment of a new AM adjustable carb and what is essentially a muffler delete and exhaust opening (the gasket is often smaller than the port). The oldest one has been going strong 6 years since. These seem to be choked from factory down on both fuel and air. When you let them eat and breathe they are really excellent little firewood saws in 16" or 18". They do not like part throttle in my experience. On or off.

I drop start all saws, making sure they are already under compression, so no shock to the recoil pawls. Drop start splits the work between your limbs and balances the whole thing out, for me at least.

I drop start all saws I own from the 34cc on up to the 090 137 cc saws, I have more than 100 chainsaws and have worked them in the woods since 1964, kneeling on a saw or sticking a toe in the rear handle and trying to pull it over would not be something I am not willing to try. May as well use the weight of the saw itself to assist the start, anyone arguing otherwise is wasting their time. Drop start is the way anyone I ever seen work in the woods start their saws.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I fix up 025 and MS250`S and give them to the young fellas around me that don`t have a saw but really could use one. They have no issues starting them unless the cylinders are wet from weeping carbs, then the saw acts like its nearly locked up and the recoil parts take a beating. The older Partner 500 and Jonsered 490-590 would lock up hard if the cylinder was wet, recoil covers would be the weak part that shattered when a guy with a strong arm forced the issue.

You know, these saws might be better to start if they got used often. Both my 250 and 039 hadn't been started for well over a year, maybe longer. I remember when I had a tree down in my back yard I used the 039 quite a bit and didn't have any trouble pulling it over.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I drop start all saws I own from the 34cc on up to the 090 137 cc saws, I have more than 100 chainsaws and have worked them in the woods since 1964, kneeling on a saw or sticking a toe in the rear handle and trying to pull it over would not be something I am not willing to try. May as well use the weight of the saw itself to assist the start, anyone arguing otherwise is wasting their time. Drop start is the way anyone I ever seen work in the woods start their saws.

A compression release determines how I start my saws. If it has one it's pretty easy to start it from the ground; if not it's better to drop start them. My 039 and 250 do not have one.