cylinder repair

[trialanderror]

old garbage truck cylinder.

4 1/2" ram
6" bore
30 some inch stroke.

guy gave it to me with new push and return piston seals.

the flange/oring seal is leaking in the bushing, so i'm trying some redneck repairs.

peeled the oring out of the flange seal, still soft and not cracked. then made up my own 1/4" o-rings.

the orginal one is sandwiched between the 1/4's to take up the chuck.

it's not the correct way, as it won't 'flange' with pressure and get tighter. but, i'll give it a shot. only got an hour into it and $4 the 7ft peice of oring i bought.. got it back together tonight , gonna hook it up and see what it does tomarrow if time works in my favor.

made by the company leach. gonna do some googling and see if i can get a seal kit for a resonable price.

oh yeah, new cylinder for my log splitter....it'll go good with this soon to be made 8way head....

 

[Crofter]

There has to be enough compression of the O ring to "engage" the pressure for a seal. They get less pliable and flats get worn as they flex constantly with pressure changes so sometimes an old set of O rings needs a bit of help. I have cut spacer rings out of the old white plastic Javex bottles in a pinch. There are "Jobber" seals companies that make generic seals that you can usually seal any cylinder piston or gland and same for shaft wipers. Parker is one manufacturer I have used and their material trade name is Molythane.

 

[trialanderror]

napa can get a 5/16's oring....

i might give that a shot as well. it's a peice of cake to get it apart now since i got a jig made to pull/push it back together. this pair of 1/4"orings idea went together kinda tight, but not as tight as i'd like to.


when you speak of spacer rings, your talking the bushing seal that holds back oil on there return and wipes the ram as it extends? not the ones on the piston? the flared seal w/oring didn't have any spacers. it chucked back and forth.... it was rebuilt wrong or ground up and ended in the filter and reservoir...

 

[Haywire Haywood]

old garbage truck cylinder.

4 1/2" ram
6" bore
30 some inch stroke.

How big's your pump? That's gonna be a slow one to cycle with what generally comes on box store splitters.

Ian

 

[kevin j]

with the groove and rod dimensions any good hydr shop can source the seals.
generic parker stuff usually the most common.

You might try the local garbage company shop. Their maintenance shop probably rebuild leach packers full time and might have seals.

The rod seal will be a lip type facing inward and a lip dust excluder facing outwards. Sometimes an oring inside the seal lip to energize it under low pressure, but the actual hydraulic pressure energize a lip seal. Orings, not so much.

 

[ericjeeper]

I would not waste my time unless I had a big engine and a Huge flowing pump..
\ If'n I was a little more enthused I would take the time to figure the volume of that cylinder. Probably close to 5 gallons to fill it on extend cycle. So an 11 gpm pump. you are looking at a 30 second out time.. And considerably less on the retract mode.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

3.67 gallons....

Ian

 

[ericjeeper]

3.67 gallons....

Ian

lol

 

[trialanderror]

How big's your pump? That's gonna be a slow one to cycle with what generally comes on box store splitters.

Ian

this isn't a box store splitter
may be slow, but 1 push will generally make 8 pieces of split...speed is no concern
but anyways, it'll be pushed with a 45gpm pump
and i'm not wasting my time, as i do have a decent engine and pump.
glad you people shoot down ideas around here.

 

[trialanderror]

The rod seal will be a lip type facing inward and a lip dust excluder facing outwards. Sometimes an oring inside the seal lip to energize it under low pressure, but the actual hydraulic pressure energize a lip seal. Orings, not so much.

yeah, i follow that, but i don't have a lip seal to throw in, buddy of mine did a 0ring rebuild, and it turned out ok. figure i'd give this a shot.

 

[bonker81]

I'd like to see some pictures of this rig you have. Especially if you get the cylinder working with an eight way head. Sounds pretty cool.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

this isn't a box store splitter
may be slow, but 1 push will generally make 8 pieces of split...speed is no concern
but anyways, it'll be pushed with a 45gpm pump
and i'm not wasting my time, as i do have a decent engine and pump.
glad you people shoot down ideas around here.

calm down fella.. I was just asking. Yeesh.

Ian

 

[powerstroke73L]

calm down fella.. I was just asking. Yeesh.

Yeah no need to get touchy. Go find yourself an old Chevy Chevette diesel engine to hitch that pump to and make a video of it splitting knotty elm crotches!

 

[olyman]

Yeah no need to get touchy. Go find yourself an old Chevy Chevette diesel engine to hitch that pump to and make a video of it splitting knotty elm crotches!

just happen to know where a whole car like that is setting--inside a shed--

 

[andy8962]

seals

try Knight Hawk Supply they help me out with a couple of cylinder rebuilds just mailed them the seals they matched them up and sent them back very reasonable
the owner is Zip Underwood great guy full of info

 

[trialanderror]

I'd like to see some pictures of this rig you have. Especially if you get the cylinder working with an eight way head. Sounds pretty cool.

just stopped and looked at a friends splitter.

he's got a 6" bore with a 57" stroke

at first he tried a 12" H beam, said he got into some gnarly stuff and it twisted around like a wet noodle...
so then he braced a 14" H beam with some 2" solid stock every 2ft or so down the sides.

still bent the lip a bit at the wedge end, but the beam itself is straight....for now....

he's a bit on the wild side...
anyways, he's got some material i'll need to build this monster.....

don't know about you guys, but i will wiggle a spool valve lever alllllll day long before i'll beat down a wedge with a sledge....speed is no concern when convenience is the payoff. watch a lazy man one day, they're the best of inventions.

 

[trialanderror]

finally got around and plumbed it up and cycled it a few times. it seeps, but nothing like it did before. i did the same patch job with my 4" bore cheap tie-rod cylinder, and it seeped more then this one at first, and finally stopped after a few cord. This 6" seeps less, and i've only ran it in/out maybe 20 times....

i just used some o-rings. supposed to be a cup seal, but oh well. this 50cent fix is holding up just well, opposed to a $100 seal kit.

now i just need a frame to hold this badboy down.....

 

[builder1101]

good job. i favour people who are to save a penny when possible. especially the way the economy is at the moment. if it doesn't leak, then hell yeah, it was well worth the effort. rep comin your way.