Glad it’s working out!
Philbert
Philbert
Depth gauge tool
- Thread starter MNfarmer
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cutter0103
ArboristSite Member
Yes very happy thanks. Btw philbert do you know if that last gauge pic the one that lays across 2 teeth, is that chain size specific or uni
I assume that the progressive depth gauge setting tools are specific to chain pitch, since the geometry determines the angular relationship.
The fixed offset tools should be independent of chain gauge: you could use a straight edge and feeler gauges for that. But some depth gauges may not fit through that slot, due to non-standard designs.
Philbert
I got a full set of the Stihl ones some time back through a member here…group buy. They stihl work great 
I bought one of the husky roller guides after reading the hype, watching the informercials, etc.
It is the most useless tool in the box.
I don't mind gadgets, but I need to sharpen and cut wood.
Did get a couple new files out of the kit.
The file handle is a joke too.
Before the fan club explodes, I like all brands,, that work.
It is the most useless tool in the box.
I don't mind gadgets, but I need to sharpen and cut wood.
Did get a couple new files out of the kit.
The file handle is a joke too.
Before the fan club explodes, I like all brands,, that work.
cutter0103
ArboristSite Member
Sweet just what I thought. Thanks phil
Everyone has to find something that works for them.
Things to do with your Husky guide?
- post it in the ‘Trading Post’;
- give it away at a GTG for someone else to try;
- look for one of those ‘Holiday Giving’ threads.
Philbert
cutter0103
ArboristSite Member
Hi again, this is in reference to the husky plate gauge again. Ones that i modified, or filed so it would fit sittimg on my stihl chain. I am now seeing other videos saying the raker IS supposed to peak out through the little window, but not exactly in the middle like I thought, but to the sides in that little window. Tired of mixed answers on how the raker is supposed to pop out of that little window from all these YouTube how to use depth gauge plate videos.. are we splitting hairs? Does it matter if the raker is sitting in the middle, or to the left, or right, just as long as it's through that little window on the plate? I thought as long as the raker is through the window regardless of left or right, or middle, then it's working correctly.. thought opinions please, Phil , Sean pv hiker, anyone
It's a guide!
I will sometimes run it back so the raker is in the center of the slot, other times I put it off to one side or the other in the back, to make it less aggressive. Many times I will not file all the way down to the plate to make it even less aggressive.
You will have to set the rakers up according to the species of wood you're cutting, the power or lack of power your saw has, how your cutting(lots of bore/plunge cuts) and you cutting style.
cutter0103
ArboristSite Member
Cool chipper so as long as the raker is coming through that slot , I'm good right? Be it the middle, a little to right or left, but definitely through the window, then I'm good, it's doing what it's supposed to right? A little to the left Or right in the slot shouldnt interfere with how the chip is comin out. The relationship from the gauge plate sitting on tip of the sawtooth to the raker popping through the window to the tail part sitting on the next drive link shouldn't be thrown out of whack right? It seems like some brands of chain don't quite line up perfectly with how the raker pops through the slot, given the design of the plate new out of the box.
cutter0103
ArboristSite Member
Sorry meant to say, *the relationship from the plate resting on tip of sawtooth, to the raker popping through the window, to the tail part sitting on the next drive link should all be sound and true* , regardless if the raker pops out of the slot a little to left or right or middle, but definitely THROUGH the window
It's much like a go-no go gauge, if your using a part that it isn't made for, it's a definite no go lol. I find that there are chains they won't work on or chains they work slightly different on. I was using mine to set the rakers the other day on an old Carlton chain, as long as I kept the raker in the very center of the back portion it worked well, if I made the raker sit off to one side(which I do often to stop the chattering of the raker) the guide would rise up a couple thousandths. It wasn't a deal breaker, but if you don't notice what's happening your results will not be as intended.
As I said before it's a guide(although its called a gauge) , it's not something I expect to work 100% without adjustment/fine tuning, there are times I run the chain I just set them on and then end up taking a couple swipes more off the rakers because they are too high, other times I take a couple swipes off the cutter because the rakers are a little low.
I also have the stihl versions of these, they lower the rakers more and make a chain that is much more aggressive, to the point I wonder if the guys that use them do any bore cutting at all.
Sometimes I will use guides for other size chains, such as the 3/8 picco on standard 3/8, it gets me close and I can fine tune it from there.
I primarily cut hardwood(some is softer though, like the willow I cut yesterday), getting the rakers set just right is more critical in hardwood than soft; softwood is more forgiving, while hardwood you will either be pulling the rpm down below the power ban or you will be making dusts, neither is good.
As I said before it's a guide(although its called a gauge) , it's not something I expect to work 100% without adjustment/fine tuning, there are times I run the chain I just set them on and then end up taking a couple swipes more off the rakers because they are too high, other times I take a couple swipes off the cutter because the rakers are a little low.
I also have the stihl versions of these, they lower the rakers more and make a chain that is much more aggressive, to the point I wonder if the guys that use them do any bore cutting at all.
Sometimes I will use guides for other size chains, such as the 3/8 picco on standard 3/8, it gets me close and I can fine tune it from there.
I primarily cut hardwood(some is softer though, like the willow I cut yesterday), getting the rakers set just right is more critical in hardwood than soft; softwood is more forgiving, while hardwood you will either be pulling the rpm down below the power ban or you will be making dusts, neither is good.
cutter0103
ArboristSite Member
Ok so you can the raker can sit a little to the left Or right or in middle just as long as it's in that window and the tail part of the gauge is resting flatly on the next drive link. Sorry I'm a little dense, can I get a yes, or no lol? Just straightforward.
cutter0103
ArboristSite Member
For example if you see in my pics I added to this thread as an example, I have one pic of how the raker sits in the slot. Is that OK? Correct placement for that stihl chain
cutter0103
ArboristSite Member
Sorry I should also add to say that when I got the gauge new out of the box, the raker didn't even come close to the slot when lining the gauge up right on the tooth/bar. That's when I looked online and saw one guy said you can file part of tail part outward so you can move side to side, so you can get the raker in the slot someway
When I want them to be set more aggressively I put the raker in the small spot at the front of the slot.
Normally I'll place the raker on the side of the slot that keeps the guide in line with the bar/chain.
I like to set them all from the right side. I sharpen the left cutters, spin the saw around and then sharpen the right cutters, then I set all the rakers from the right side also. When I file each side I apply a little pressure to the raker with the guide to stop any chatter/squealing from the raker vibrating when filed. You can also change the angle of the file across the raker/guide so you are filing more from the front to the back of the raker.
Normally I'll place the raker on the side of the slot that keeps the guide in line with the bar/chain.
I like to set them all from the right side. I sharpen the left cutters, spin the saw around and then sharpen the right cutters, then I set all the rakers from the right side also. When I file each side I apply a little pressure to the raker with the guide to stop any chatter/squealing from the raker vibrating when filed. You can also change the angle of the file across the raker/guide so you are filing more from the front to the back of the raker.
I really like the file handle, actually prefer it over the standard round ones.
Yes, or no
.Whatever works for you, just do it consistently on the chain you are working on to get the best results. If you change things up the rest of that chain will need to be done the same way.
When a chain is running well I don't even use the guides, but after I hit something and I have damaged cutters that need to be taken back further than the others, or the chain isn't cutting true then I'll use the guide. Until then I just watch the chips and make sure they look good. If I pick up a saw that's not mine and I notice the rakers are shiny on the top front, as long as the owner doesn't mind, I'll file until the shine is gone and run it. I also like to keep the same angle as the progressive guide gives, this way I can see the length from front to back of the raker that has been filed(the flat spot where you filed), if the cutters are all the same length, then the rakers should be too.
Much of chain filing in the field is precision guesswork, then when you true one up at the house, it will need to be fine tuned in the field to optimize cutting, or just buy a new chain and be happy with whatever it does out of the box. If you're going to just run a new chain out of the box I suggest it be the newer husky x-cut chain, it's the fastest and smoothest chain out of the box that I've ran, although I have not run stihls new hexa chain, I'm sure it cuts fast and smooth as well.
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