Dolmar throwing chains

redhawk23

redhawk23

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Updates:

1. I asked Makita if the 3201 drum would fit a 4300. No response yet.

2. I ordered feeler gauges for the coil and will use to answer a previous question posted above.

3. I asked 2 mechanics about the units of torque and both said they’ve never used a torque wrench on a chainsaw. One was appreciative that I informed them about Makitas plans to stop making gas saws, the other knew and switched to Efco I think
 
Franny K

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View attachment 927027View attachment 927028
Both images taken from the same site & listed for your saws... interestingly they only have the second one in stock
This seems to be causing confusion. the pictures sure seem like the bore of the bearing is smaller on the one to the right called Dolmar ps32 and the oil pump drive is different on the Makita 4300 Dolmar 350 351 420 421. Image to the left is just called image 1. Where is this coming from and what do you mean by "your saws"?

I have responded prior in this thread. Like Nate/F150 has stated this saw at 42cc is right at the boundary for what the Oregon and similar preset tie strap using chains are limited to. The Stihl 63 class picco chains uses different presets and they as are more robust, can be used by the Stihl 50cc saws with the proper sprocket and bar.

AS to Harley T and the tail of the bar being kind of small, yes that is the "a" tail in Oregon code. My Echo 361 uses that and 57 drive links to space it far away for some reason as 56 in Makita same bar when laid on on top of the other. Edit the Makita uses the 7 tooth nose, not the 9 tooth nose like the Echo 361, it was a 56 dl GB bar that matched up on top of each other. The other was just a close match. The Stihl tail in the 3005 bars is quite different it gets wide faster and puts the oil hole far back they can be adapted to brand x but use silly drive link count like 55 instead of 56 for the called 16 inch. The called length 16" for the 3003 picco bar is different dl count like the .325 by 0.063 ones.
 

J D

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This seems to be causing confusion. the pictures sure seem like the bore of the bearing is smaller on the one to the right called Dolmar ps32 and the oil pump drive is different on the Makita 4300 Dolmar 350 351 420 421. Image to the left is just called image 1. Where is this coming from and what do you mean by "your saws"?
You are correct, my apologies for confusing things.
In my defence, my googling bought up this...
Screenshot_20210903-204015.png
Followed by this...
Screenshot_20210903-203729.png
Had I pursued those links further they would've taken me to this...Screenshot_20210903-203855.png
Not sure what's up with that, I'm guessing at some point the sawagain website had the wrong product image & Google's still confused.
Again, I apologize for the misleading information
 
redhawk23

redhawk23

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This saw is throwing chains like mad, there has to be a mismatch between something from the factory. I’m going to contact a dealer and see if I can get my money back. This is ridiculous. I can’t use it for a half hour without throwing a chain. Today, 2x in a half hour.
I’ve had experienced, professional chainsaw users look at and they couldn’t see anything wrong. If you haven’t read the previous post it’s happened on 2 brand new saws.
 
tomalophicon

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This saw is throwing chains like mad, there has to be a mismatch between something from the factory. I’m going to contact a dealer and see if I can get my money back. This is ridiculous. I can’t use it for a half hour without throwing a chain. Today, 2x in a half hour.
I’ve had experienced, professional chainsaw users look at and they couldn’t see anything wrong. If you haven’t read the previous post it’s happened on 2 brand new saws.
Yes mine drove me nuts till I updated the sprocket. By the sounds of it you can't find one for your saw?
 
redhawk23

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Talked to a shop that sells my saw. The guy is convinced I'm running the chain too loose, he said to start with a new chain and tighten it to the point of basically not being able to pull it around the bar and keep it tight. I told him I’ve never heard or read it was necessary to tighten a chain so much 🤷‍♂️
 
cookies

cookies

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Talked to a shop that sells my saw. The guy is convinced I'm running the chain too loose, he said to start with a new chain and tighten it to the point of basically not being able to pull it around the bar and keep it tight. I told him I’ve never heard or read it was necessary to tighten a chain so much 🤷‍♂️
i bet your using a standard 3/8 bar with a 3/8lp chain
 
redhawk23

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i bet your using a standard 3/8 bar with a 3/8lp chain
i bet your using a standard 3/8 bar with a 3/8lp chain
I had the problem with the stock bar, the Makita. I’m trying to figure out what my Woodland Pro bar is, neither bar makes it obvious.
 

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blades

blades

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Just for giggles , .375 is 3/8 pitch , .325 pitch is also called 3/8 pitch which it really isn't.:dumb2: Now .375 chain comes in .043 .050, .058 ,.063 gauge drivers. .325 is .050.058.063. gauge drivers. trying to run a .325 on a .375 is very apparent that something is wrong and vice a versa. after 7 pages of this I would be looking at the bar to see what gauge the bar groove is or mic it . I just have a feeling that somehow there is a mismatch between the the chain drivers and the bar groove. As the equipment is fairly new wear is not a particular issue ( as op stated that problem occurs with new chain also). Also a worn bar groove ( side to side ) would cause same issue. Course I don't know much and have been known to ask for a universal corner rounding wrench at the hardware store:ices_rofl:
 
pioneerguy600

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Just for giggles , .375 is 3/8 pitch , .325 pitch is also called 3/8 pitch which it really isn't.:dumb2: Now .375 chain comes in .043 .050, .058 ,.063 gauge drivers. .325 is .050.058.063. gauge drivers. trying to run a .325 on a .375 is very apparent that something is wrong and vice a versa. after 7 pages of this I would be looking at the bar to see what gauge the bar groove is or mic it . I just have a feeling that somehow there is a mismatch between the the chain drivers and the bar groove. As the equipment is fairly new wear is not a particular issue ( as op stated that problem occurs with new chain also). Also a worn bar groove ( side to side ) would cause same issue. Course I don't know much and have been known to ask for a universal corner rounding wrench at the hardware store:ices_rofl:
Just a note, .325 pitch is not called 3/8" pitch by anyone I know. There is 3/8" low pro sometimes called LP or Picco which actually is smaller than regular 3/8" pitch chain. The two may mount and run on a regular 3/8" sprocket but they actually are not identical, the 3/8" LP will ride higher on a regular 3/8" sprocket.
 
blades

blades

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That wpa bar looks like it needs some serious dressing of the bar rails. can't tell on the Makita. both are stamped .050 gauge drive links.
On another note if a chain is .375 pitch the style of cutters does not change the pitch, but the clearances in /on the saw dictate height/ size of cutters. same for .325 or .404. if a saw is designed to run only 1/2 size cutters it would be the devil to run a full height on it in most cases.
 
blades

blades

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Just a note, .325 pitch is not called 3/8" pitch by anyone I know. There is 3/8" low pro sometimes called LP or Picco which actually is smaller than regular 3/8" pitch chain. The two may mount and run on a regular 3/8" sprocket but they actually are not identical, the 3/8" LP will ride higher on a regular 3/8" sprocket.
True , I never refer to pico units as LP though. Most of those that I have come through the shop are 10-12" 14" at max. pole saws and electrics.
 
redhawk23

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Chains are 3/8 LP, bar is 3/8 LP. Sprocket is correct. Since this has happened from when all parts were new maybe the guy is correct, I’m not tightening the chains enough. I wonder what will happen if I crank on the beat up chains?
 
davidwyby

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Wow. What a thread. Now I’m curious, send it to me, I wanna see. :-D

I think there is merit in the flange on the spur to retain the chain. I think my husky 61 spur is like that.

Trying to diagnose this over the ‘net without a ton of pics ‘n vids is a bit silly IMO.

Only time I’ve thrown chains is if they are a bit loose (I am picky about tension, I usually tension so they spin freely and don’t hang down cold and then retension when they get hot) and I blow through a limb with a bigger saw at the tip of the bar and a bit of pinch derails the chain.
 
redhawk23

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The mechanic/dealer who said the chain was loose wouldn’t even bother trying the saw out if I brought it in, he’s that confident it’s the chain being loose. The chain has never been so loose it noticeably sagged.

I suggested that he might have not encountered the problem before because it’s more of a homeowners saw and may not get the use mine does or homeowners might not recognize throwing chains all the time as being abnormal. Or they’re just more skilled than me who uses one saw one another almost daily.
 

J D

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Chains are 3/8 LP, bar is 3/8 LP. Sprocket is correct. Since this has happened from when all parts were new maybe the guy is correct, I’m not tightening the chains enough. I wonder what will happen if I crank on the beat up chains?
Tighten the chain so it just pulls up to the bar then a further quarter to half a turn. Put something under the bar tip & lean forward on the saw when you tighten the bar nuts up to take up any excess movement in the mounting. When done correctly, on a ~18" bar you should be able to pull the chain up to expose the majority of a drive link without having to really yank at it & push the chain around the bar with a file or scrench (holding the handle & pushing with the chain halfway along the tool)
 

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