Interesting. How did you come to hear about this product?
Done with bad fuel !
- Thread starter aokpops
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I read about it in an Outdoor magazine addressing the issue of boats and snowmobiles were having with ethanol gas. I went to the web site and ordered some and the rest is history for me.
I ordered some for my gas and diesels and it works as described. I run it in my truck, car and all my equipment all the time.
My stored fuel stays good.
I ordered some for my gas and diesels and it works as described. I run it in my truck, car and all my equipment all the time.
My stored fuel stays good.
Smitty Smithsonite
ArboristSite Operative
I just flew my paramotor 3 times this past week on 11 month & 2 week old premixed E0 gasoline. Would've been a year old on the 26th. Not a hiccup. 2.3 hours combined flight, 6 full-throttle takeoffs for over 2 minutes each time. Amsoil Saber has a built-in stabilizer that apparently works. I mix that stuff heavy on the paramotor at 66:1.
It's not the fuel - it's how customers store it. It CANNOT, whether E0 or E10 pump gas, be stored open to the atmosphere. It's GOT to be in a sealed, air tight container at ALL times. That said, E0 will still outlast E10 in an open jug by a factor of AT LEAST 10:1, unless you live in Phoenix where 20% humidity is considered "tropical". I see TONS of fuel problems, while I myself have very few. I've kept E10 in a 55 gallon drum for a year, and ran it in my mower pumped through a water separating filter. The filter never stopped flowing, so, no water present. Could tell the fuel had degraded by the smell, and it's propensity for epic knocks & backfires on the mower at shutdown, but it got the job done. I even mixed up some premix with that stuff for the whacker, blower, and chainsaw at the time. No issues with those, either.
I did have to clean the carb in the saw after it sat 9 months with that same year old gas in it, though. Was shocked it wasn't worse. Just stale and separated.
Fatherwheels
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just asking for someone, how would add this product
to the mix effect oil ratio.
This post is for the boaters out there...
I do some offshore fishing, and need the engine to run WITHOUT FAIL. (When you're 50 nm off the beach, it's a long walk home!) That's why I always carry a couple bottles of "MDR E-Zorb" in the boat. This stuff can "fix" phase-separated gasohol and allow your engine to burn it.
It's basically an emulsifier, and if your fuel separates out into a straight-gasoline phase, and a water-ethanol solution phase, E-Zorb will emulsify it, allowing the gasoline and water-ethanol phases to go back into solution (or maybe it's a suspension/emulsion like mayonnaise, whatever) so that the crap will go through your filters, go through your carb or fuel injectors, and keep the engines running.
I won't fish offshore anymore without a couple bottles of this stuff on board.
I do some offshore fishing, and need the engine to run WITHOUT FAIL. (When you're 50 nm off the beach, it's a long walk home!) That's why I always carry a couple bottles of "MDR E-Zorb" in the boat. This stuff can "fix" phase-separated gasohol and allow your engine to burn it.
It's basically an emulsifier, and if your fuel separates out into a straight-gasoline phase, and a water-ethanol solution phase, E-Zorb will emulsify it, allowing the gasoline and water-ethanol phases to go back into solution (or maybe it's a suspension/emulsion like mayonnaise, whatever) so that the crap will go through your filters, go through your carb or fuel injectors, and keep the engines running.
I won't fish offshore anymore without a couple bottles of this stuff on board.
It mixes at one ounce to 15 gallons of gas, it does not affect mixture ratio of 2 cycle oil and gas, 50 to 1 is still 50 to 1 ect.
Fatherwheels
Addicted to ArboristSite
This brings back memories, I used to jump from small planes,
step on the wheel, hang on to the strut, then fall back, parachute
took care of the landing, great views.
I call BS. Maybe with Trufuel or 100LL. MAYBE.
Plain ole pump gas, even E0, not a chance. Around here, after that long, E10 isn't even flammable anymore.
I use something similar when transferring fuel between tanks. Have caught plenty of junk, but never any water. Not to say that it won't catch water, just maybe I haven't had any in my cans.
It does leave a couple oz of fuel in a sediment/water reservoir in the bottom of the funnel, which never comes out the bottom. When it's catching junk, that's a great thing. Most of the rest of the time it's just a PITA, having to dump that 2oz of fuel back in the can you just pulled from.
This is what was in the funnel after emptying what was left in a 55 gallon drum of kerosene into 5 gallon NATO cans.
Smitty Smithsonite
ArboristSite Operative
Theoretically, anything in gasoline that ISN'T gasoline, displaces said gasoline. Premix oil in gas leans out the fuel/air mixture by its presence. Oil molecules are displacing gasoline molecules. So I'd wager, this stuff will too to a point. Probably not a huge change, but it's a change nonetheless.
Smitty Smithsonite
ArboristSite Operative
I had a pressure washer that my dad had gave me 13 years prior. I really didn't need it, but I figured I could use it at some point. Before I knew it 13 years had passed, and the fuel that was in the tank was ethanol free - they were using MBTE at the time this was last fueled. It started on the SECOND pull!! Not even joking! I was friggin AMAZED.
That experience just solidified my hatred for ethanol in gasoline today.
Even E0 evaporates and leaves deposits. Definitely not going to call you a liar, but this does run contrary to my own experience. My own E0, with a double dose of Stabil, seems fine after a year, but is noticeably different after two years, at which point I dump it in the car and rotate through. I should fill a separate can full of E0, without stabilizer, let it sit a few years, and see what happens.
Around here, E10 seriously isn't even a flammable liquid anymore after a few years. You can't get it to burn. After a couple years, there's no way I'd run it, even a little at a time, in any engine I didn't want to lacquer the valves closed on.
I have a push mower with a HFT replacement engine, and something went wrong with it about 3 yrs ago and I pushed it off to the side and haven't touched it since then. (I believe there was some E0 gas left in it, but am not sure.)
This summer, I put some fresh non-ethanol gas into it, and it literally started on the FIRST pull and stayed running. I was astonished.
If it was a flogging Weedeater, the carb would have been gummed in 3 weeks. Go figure.
This summer, I put some fresh non-ethanol gas into it, and it literally started on the FIRST pull and stayed running. I was astonished.
If it was a flogging Weedeater, the carb would have been gummed in 3 weeks. Go figure.
Looked into it a bit, figured I'd give it a try. Always used sta-bil as it was recommended by nearly every small engine manufacturer that we were servicing dealers for at the machine shop. Never had any fuel related issues, but, I haven't stored much fuel until recently.
Smitty Smithsonite
ArboristSite Operative
Depends on many things - climate it's stored in, & the design of the carburetor and its venting system are the big ones.
I got a '91 Suzuki DR350 for my brother 10 years ago that someone had titled and converted to an on/off bike. I spent about a year going through it, fixing things that were bad, and improving upon things I felt needed it. I don't know what it was with that bike - probably the carburetor venting system combined with some tiny pilot jets, but ANY time I forgot and left the gas on and didn't run the carburetor dry, this bike flat would not start after just 6 days of sitting out there in the summer. Then take my Husqvarna 141 saw I bought at Home Depot 19 years ago. Sat for 14 months with premixed ethanol in it, but I got it started after about 20 pulls or so. The stuff is so hit or miss. I'd wager if I left my generator out there for 13 years, I highly doubt it would start like that pressure washer did. Just the luck of the draw on that one. I was more amazed the fuel was still flammable!
There are actually many products out there that do the same thing. One of the issues with using it is it still takes power out of the combustion process to turn the water into steam, but it will get you by in a pinch. Back when I was still a heavy duty diesel road tech we found stand by generators had lots of condensation issues with their fuel tanks. Tanks would only get refilled at 1/2 full level. This actually takes quite a long time of they aren't powering the store or hospital for any amount of time. The hour long exercise every month doesn't use much fuel. We found that a water absorbing sock coupled with water blocking pre-filters eliminated most of that issue. Also started treating the fuel with an biocide. Worked well for the gens that only got attention once a year and didn't run much.This post is for the boaters out there...
I do some offshore fishing, and need the engine to run WITHOUT FAIL. (When you're 50 nm off the beach, it's a long walk home!) That's why I always carry a couple bottles of "MDR E-Zorb" in the boat. This stuff can "fix" phase-separated gasohol and allow your engine to burn it.
It's basically an emulsifier, and if your fuel separates out into a straight-gasoline phase, and a water-ethanol solution phase, E-Zorb will emulsify it, allowing the gasoline and water-ethanol phases to go back into solution (or maybe it's a suspension/emulsion like mayonnaise, whatever) so that the crap will go through your filters, go through your carb or fuel injectors, and keep the engines running.
I won't fish offshore anymore without a couple bottles of this stuff on board.
Depends on many things - climate it's stored in, & the design of the carburetor and its venting system are the big ones.
I got a '91 Suzuki DR350 for my brother 10 years ago that someone had titled and converted to an on/off bike. I spent about a year going through it, fixing things that were bad, and improving upon things I felt needed it. I don't know what it was with that bike - probably the carburetor venting system combined with some tiny pilot jets, but ANY time I forgot and left the gas on and didn't run the carburetor dry, this bike flat would not start after just 6 days of sitting out there in the summer. Then take my Husqvarna 141 saw I bought at Home Depot 19 years ago. Sat for 14 months with premixed ethanol in it, but I got it started after about 20 pulls or so. The stuff is so hit or miss. I'd wager if I left my generator out there for 13 years, I highly doubt it would start like that pressure washer did. Just the luck of the draw on that one. I was more amazed the fuel was still flammable!
I've always had to run anything dry if it was going to sit for any length of time, with any kind of pump gas in it.
I forgot to run the carb dry on my Honda pressure washer one year. Even running E0 and a double dose of Stabil, I still had to prime it with carb cleaner straight down the throat of the carb, and then once it lit on that, hold my hand over the intake to create enough vacuum to suck all the junk out of the carb. Ran fine after that. This past year, where I did remember to run it dry, it started on one pull.
The only fuel that hasn't caused me issues when sitting has been Trufuel. My 034S with Trufuel in it sat for over a year, started in six pulls, ran like normal.
Smitty Smithsonite
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah I hear that. I normally run any float-bowl carburetor dry when I'm done using it, especially my '74 RD350. Can't reach the carb drains on that unless you loosen the clamps and twist the carbs in the manifold sideways. A huge PITA to do every single ride. I've found just shutting the fuel off at a predetermined spot from my house, then riding the last 1,000 feet on full choke works well.
As far as diaphragm carbs, I've found leaving them full of fuel results in far less issues. Don't really understand why that is. Maybe since the crap in the gas holds the diaphragm open allowing internal leakage. Not really sure. Whether it's a chainsaw, weedwhacker, leaf blower, or the giant diaphragm carb (Walbro WB-37C) on my paramotor, they will ALL not start the following year if left 100% dry after running E10.
The paramotor sat all fall and winter (After I broke my hand) with E0 & Saber, and fired right up 6 months later. A little extended crank time, but not too bad. The saw sits a year at a time or longer, and always fires up relatively quick on E0. It used to take way too many pulls on E10, usually requiring a sniff of acetone to light off.
As far as diaphragm carbs, I've found leaving them full of fuel results in far less issues. Don't really understand why that is. Maybe since the crap in the gas holds the diaphragm open allowing internal leakage. Not really sure. Whether it's a chainsaw, weedwhacker, leaf blower, or the giant diaphragm carb (Walbro WB-37C) on my paramotor, they will ALL not start the following year if left 100% dry after running E10.
The paramotor sat all fall and winter (After I broke my hand) with E0 & Saber, and fired right up 6 months later. A little extended crank time, but not too bad. The saw sits a year at a time or longer, and always fires up relatively quick on E0. It used to take way too many pulls on E10, usually requiring a sniff of acetone to light off.
The trufuel isn't the same chemical make up as pump gas and is much more shelf stable. Just like aspen 2t or most any other fuel in a can.
