Ya know those are good thoughts, if a crank bearing was roached the additional load from some compression could bind it up OR imagine the flywheel is even actually moving enough to contact the coil laminations??
Don't want a new saw. Stihl Problem
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If the saw was in front of me I would remove the bar and chain. Four screws remove the starter. Using the flywheel rotate the crank by hand several times in both directions to feel and hear for any issues.
Remove the sprocket and clean and lube needle bearing. A seized needle bearing will lock the sprocket not allowing free spinning.
Clean out around the flywheel and coil pickup. Inspect the starter assembly for wear especially the contact with flywheel. Could even use a business card and check coil gap.
Remove muffler, clean exhaust screen. Inspect flow not blocked.
Remove sparkplug inspect for damage. Re gap to spec.020.
Using compressed air blow into cylinder while spinning crank, as much as this has been yanked on there is surely excess of fuel pooled that needs to be removed.
Reassembled sprocket, sparkplug, exhaust and starter back on. Pull starter with the lever in off position should pull freely. If not might be with the starter wear with the flywheel. These saw models are hard to pull to begin with, add a little fuel pooling or something else just out of wacky makes it just harder if you are not able to pull hard enough to overcome the obstacles. Seek a stronger person to assist.
Most times a person has pulled so much that excess fuel has been delivered into the bottom of the cylinder and stays there that causes the grief. Each time you yank on the starter the impulse pulls on the carb and sucks fuel into the cylinder. Suggest draining the fuel tank until you get it sorted.
If you have got that far then a carb overhaul kit, fuel filter and inspection of all rubber lines are in order.
If the saw was in front of me I would remove the bar and chain. Four screws remove the starter. Using the flywheel rotate the crank by hand several times in both directions to feel and hear for any issues.
Remove the sprocket and clean and lube needle bearing. A seized needle bearing will lock the sprocket not allowing free spinning.
Clean out around the flywheel and coil pickup. Inspect the starter assembly for wear especially the contact with flywheel. Could even use a business card and check coil gap.
Remove muffler, clean exhaust screen. Inspect flow not blocked.
Remove sparkplug inspect for damage. Re gap to spec.020.
Using compressed air blow into cylinder while spinning crank, as much as this has been yanked on there is surely excess of fuel pooled that needs to be removed.
Reassembled sprocket, sparkplug, exhaust and starter back on. Pull starter with the lever in off position should pull freely. If not might be with the starter wear with the flywheel. These saw models are hard to pull to begin with, add a little fuel pooling or something else just out of wacky makes it just harder if you are not able to pull hard enough to overcome the obstacles. Seek a stronger person to assist.
Most times a person has pulled so much that excess fuel has been delivered into the bottom of the cylinder and stays there that causes the grief. Each time you yank on the starter the impulse pulls on the carb and sucks fuel into the cylinder. Suggest draining the fuel tank until you get it sorted.
If you have got that far then a carb overhaul kit, fuel filter and inspection of all rubber lines are in order.
might add if it is fuel locked up... if you go yanking hard on the starter cord you could shear the key on the flywheel to cause more unnecessary problems.
Do you know anyone that has a 025 that you could temporarily swap the recoil with? Even try your recoil on their saw to isolate your problem. If the rope is squeezing into the starter pulley groove or other not so easy to detect issues this "SHOULD" help pinpoint where the Gremlin is hiding.
just get a young buck to start it for you. It is not the saw it is you getting old. WE WILL NOT SELL A 250 TO ANYONE THAT CANT START IT IN THE SHOP A FEW TIMES
Here is some adjustment specifications.
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Has the pull rope ever broken? If so, did you replace it with a shorter rope? Short ropes are harder to pull.
SteveSr
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The other issue with a replaced rope especially if it is not OEM rope is that it will bind the starter under load. Had a local Stihl dealer selling undersize AM rope. Last business I did with them.
Abbeville TSI
ArboristSite Operative
I don't think it's the technician as much as the hourly rate and the flat rate diagnostic connection. It hurts when it costs as much to work on a power saw as it does your furnace or car. No flames, please! I understand what it costs for overhead, etc., been there. I also understand how to deal with a "good customer" vs. a "lowest price bargain shopper".
Then you have the problem of technician quality. There are good, bad and don't give a rip techs, we've all known them. These days it's hard to find a warm body to fill a position, let alone a good employee that will stick with you... And then you have to have parts!
I was a Stihl tech for almost ten years primarily servicing and repairing Pro saws for the nearby loggers. Everything from stater ropes to complete overhauls. Owner ran into financial problems when the loggers went mechanized and lost the business. I had a home business installing equipment in police cars but shut that down when I went to work for the state police doing the same thing.
Very possibility! While the starter and sprocket is off can see if the crank will move around. While striped down much easier to spin it around and listen and feel for things.
thenne1713
ArboristSite Operative
THE FLYWHEEL IS NOT ON THE KEYWAY PROPERLY; had a little top handle Craftsman I was given, fought it for a while and finally pulled flywheel to check; the same PO or Tech that had put Oil Pump together wrong had missed the keyway. Possibly sheared, but more like;y a tech issue?
UPDATE WITH PICS.
First off, I would like to thank everyone who posted on my first ever thread on this great site. I will try not to be a one and done and hope to help someone else in the future. Some of the pics are not great but hopefully they will answer some of your questions and suggestions.
A few of you have said I've suddenly become to old to start my saw, although I don't think that's the case.
The only things replaced since I bought it new 27 yrs. ago is one new bar, a few chains, clutch needle bearing, spark plugs, air filters and a new chinese carb. Recoil and rope have never been touched. Have always used stihl oil in the fuel and chain tank.
#1 Not flooded
#2 No aftermarket recoil rope replacement
#3 Not the wrong spark plug (Bosch R6)
#4 Muffler not clogged
#5 Not the bar or chain, clutch or needle bearing
#6 Recoil is now off works fine
#7 Nothing stuck or binding around flywheel
#8 Turns smooth when turning flywheel by hand, no up or down or side to side play in crankshaft.
#9 To me piston, rings and cylinder wall look fine
I'm at loss, never got a good answer on crankshaft seals, should I try replacing them?
because their pulling excess air into the cylinder while trying to start it ?Attachments
Mipe
ArboristSite Lurker
Is it not just high friction due to low temperatures and/or a dry cylinder?
Is it maybe just a not running condition, a dry spark plug indicates no fuel: add a bit of fuel mix to the air filter inlet and pull. Also check for spark with the spark plug out.
Bad seals can cause poor startability due to excess air, but it generally still pops. Especially with the choke on.
Is it maybe just a not running condition, a dry spark plug indicates no fuel: add a bit of fuel mix to the air filter inlet and pull. Also check for spark with the spark plug out.
Bad seals can cause poor startability due to excess air, but it generally still pops. Especially with the choke on.
I can only restate my starting procedure. I start a lot of saws in a day. This one is the most likely to rip the handle out of my hand. Find something that will squirt a little fuel into the carburetor throat. Put on fast idle ,no choke. Pull up to compression then pull through. IF it still rips it out of your hand you have either too much compression (carbon inside cylinder) sheared flywheel key, or an ignition that is advanced in start mode.
My 250 acted a lot like your 025. I eventually put an after market recoil (inexpensive) on it which has helped. Still a beast but I can get it started. Recently bought an Echo CS-4910 to replace it so will probably look to sell it to some strapping young buck. Hate to give up on it but tired of fighting it. I'll probably give it one more go-round trying to resolve in the spring with some of the ideas in the multiple threads on hard to start 250's.
You never clarified if you can turn it over by the flywheel WITH the plug installed. Is this the case or does it still lock up?
Edit: it's not crank seals locking it up, but it could be a bad crank bearing.
Edit: it's not crank seals locking it up, but it could be a bad crank bearing.
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Lotsa oil everywhere, the carbon buildup will be on the piston top, and the chamber on the top. It doesn't take much carbon buildup to be a problem.. The oily look of everything looks odd. Look at the buildup on the clutch.
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I would guess that you have a blown pto seal, and bad carbon buildup in the combustion chamber, maybe a plugged up air filter.
Added pic of recoil
Don't know why I didn't try that last night after I took starter off. Well surprise, surprise, the flywheel turn easily by hand with the plug in. A CLUE! Going to put the recoil back on and see what happens. I can't see anything wrong with it as it also turns easily by hand.
