Driving wedges with a maul

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

KMB

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Oct 13, 2005
Messages
2,897
Reaction score
402
Location
Missouri
I bought a sledge and maul (both 8 lb.) yesterday. I'll be picking up two 5 lb. wedges tomorrow. I have access and use a splitter, but sometimes I like to split by hand for the exercise. And also to split the big rounds so I can get them up on the splitter. Until now, I had borrowed a maul, sledge and wedges, but I wanted my own stuff.
I think I've read here on AS (I did a search, but couldn't find the thread or post) that a maul should only be used for splitting - and not to use the back of the maul to drive wedges. I know I've read that while doing a Goggle search on mauls. It had been said that even with a flat place on the back of the maul, that a maul was not designed to take the place of a sledge. Another place said that one end of the maul is for notching the wood for a wedge, and the back (of maul) is for driving the wedge.
At the place where I bought the maul, the sign described the maul for splitting and wedge driving purposes. I bought both anyway - it's good to have a sledge around anyway. For knocking out a stuck maul or knocking off a stuck piece of wood on the splitter's wedge or whatever.
So what's everybody's opinion, comment, advice on this matter.
Here's a picture of the maul I bought.

attachment.php


Kevin
 
I just got a outdoor magazine that I subscribe to in the mail and it has an article on axes and mauls. They also mentioned using a maul for splitting and driving wedges. They also suggested sinking the maul into wood as far as it would go and then using a sledge to drive the maul further into the wood to finish the split.
Again, opinions, comments, advice on this matter.

Kevin
 
hey, i have that same maul...its alot better than the others you can buy... it spits real easy. holds an edge for a while...
-mike
 
You may be all right with that particular maul. I like the looks of it.

The problem with driving wedges with a normal maul, is that the sides of the head of the maul, around the handle hole are not as strong as a sledge. By driving with it, you will misshape or break the sides and the handle will fall out.
 
Eye Protection

I have seen big chips come off mauls when used to hit wedges, I use an 8lb. sledge. Important point here, wear eye protection, over time mushrooming happens, even if something does not mushroom chips can occur, flaws in metal, improper usage etc.
 
What brand of maul is that? I like the shape of the head - looks like it will be very effective.
 
BlueRidgeMark said:
What brand of maul is that? I like the shape of the head - looks like it will be very effective.

i dont like the head... looks to narrow and doesnt widen soon enough... i think it could easily get stuck in a hardwood if you are splitting at 90% power... but then again im in love with my maul :) to each his own
 
BlueRidgeMark said:
What brand of maul is that? I like the shape of the head - looks like it will be very effective.

It's a Ludell. From Home Depot.

Kevin
 
maul and sledge

HI, KMB. I researched this at the beginning of my wood splitting career and what I read included the observation that the materials used for edge tools (and a maul has an edge) should never be used for beating metal-on-metal as they can splinter. And splinters hurt...I have been stung through coveralls.
 
clearance said:
I have seen big chips come off mauls when used to hit wedges, I use an 8lb. sledge. Important point here, wear eye protection, over time mushrooming happens, even if something does not mushroom chips can occur, flaws in metal, improper usage etc.

I experienced a chip coming off a wedge and hitting my leg, causing a small bleeding wound. I wear eye protection since then ...;)
Take care,
Roland
 
daemon2525 said:
You may be all right with that particular maul. I like the looks of it.

The problem with driving wedges with a normal maul, is that the sides of the head of the maul, around the handle hole are not as strong as a sledge. By driving with it, you will misshape or break the sides and the handle will fall out.

farmboy9 said:
HI, KMB. I researched this at the beginning of my wood splitting career and what I read included the observation that the materials used for edge tools (and a maul has an edge) should never be used for beating metal-on-metal as they can splinter. And splinters hurt...I have been stung through coveralls.

Thanks for the info fellas. Regarding edge tools, the maul I bought has bevelled edges on the back. I'm assuming that would be okay.
Regarding the way the head is attached, the maul head is attached the same way the sledge is attached. So I should be okay there also. BUT since I also have the sledge - I'll use it. I just looked at my sledge and it's 'edges' are more rounded than bevelled. I'm assuming the sledge head is like that cause not all of the strikes/blows will be 'square' on the face of the sledge.

Kevin
 
clearance said:
I have seen big chips come off mauls when used to hit wedges, I use an 8lb. sledge. Important point here, wear eye protection, over time mushrooming happens, even if something does not mushroom chips can occur, flaws in metal, improper usage etc.

belgian said:
I experienced a chip coming off a wedge and hitting my leg, causing a small bleeding wound. I wear eye protection since then ...
Take care,
Roland.

My safety glasses are always (most always...) on when doing everything where something could get to my eyes. Including using my push mower where small debris is laying that might get spit out, cleaning carbs with spray cleaner, cleaning my saws with the air hose, working under my truck and whatever else. Thanks for the reminders.:)

Kevin
 
ranchjn said:
i dont like the head... looks to narrow and doesnt widen soon enough... i think it could easily get stuck in a hardwood if you are splitting at 90% power... but then again im in love with my maul :) to each his own


Whatcha got? Mine widens TOO soon - it's pretty blunt.
 
I use the sledge for driving wedges. Also use it to beat on the maul when it sticks.

Safety in using wedges/mauls/sledges. Do not let your equipment mushroom - and they will. As soon as they begin to swell, grind them down back to the bevel shape (as shown in the picture of the maul). It doesn't take long with a 4" disc grinder. Mushroomed heads split off big SHARP shards. I have heard of instances of people with seriouis damage and even being killed by them. Another benefit of keeping them in shape, you don't have all those sharp edges cutting your fingers when you pick em up.

Harry K
 
All metal tools need care-you have to keep up with the blossoming edges by knocking them off with a file. I usually do it by hand because it feels like the heat from the grinder might effect the metal- but to each his own.

I hand split about six or seven cords a year and just don't use wedges anymore. I leave stuff that can't be split right were it lays. If the crotch is big enough I will leave enough wood above it to split off the sides. But I will do that at the site so I don't move the thing multiple times before it is ruled an official waste of my time.I guess if I had access to a splitter these parts can be done but why the fight? The only waste in the forest is what you remove.
 
Speaking of wedges: I was splitting a big pin oak log 48" diameter which I had cut into sections about 24" long. I had 3 wedges buried in one of the sections and couldn't get it to split the rest of the way. Using my big logrite cant hook I got it stood up on its side and then pushed it back over a couple of times and the impact busted it the rest of the way into two halves. I thought one of the wedges fell out and later went to pick it up after I had split most of it on the log splitter and couldn't find the one wedge.

I had been burning a lot of it up since the log had been sitting for many years and a good bit of it was not worth saving for fire wood.
Today I was shoveling some of the ashes out of the burning hole and hit what I thought was a rock. However it was the wedge I couldn't find. The fire had been out for several days but the wedge was still too hot to handle.

Mystery Solved.
 
turnkey4099 said:
I use the sledge for driving wedges. Also use it to beat on the maul when it sticks.

Safety in using wedges/mauls/sledges. Do not let your equipment mushroom - and they will. As soon as they begin to swell, grind them down back to the bevel shape (as shown in the picture of the maul). It doesn't take long with a 4" disc grinder. Mushroomed heads split off big SHARP shards. I have heard of instances of people with seriouis damage and even being killed by them. Another benefit of keeping them in shape, you don't have all those sharp edges cutting your fingers when you pick em up.

Harry K


Good advice!

turnkey4099 said:
I have heard of instances of people with seriouis damage and even being killed by them.

Sometime ago, circa 1980, there was a guy doin his firewood thing a couple of houses away from where I was working. Sometime after lunch an ambulance pulled up and took that guy away. One of those pieces of metal had shot him right thru the heart and killed him.
 
general rule of thumb is not to hit a hardened steel surface with another hardened steel surface. bad things will happen!
 
never said they were. wedges are designed to be hit, so unlikely they would be hardened.

mauls can be hardened or not. Sledges are generally hardened, so swinging hard against a maul buried into a log with a sledge could be a bad thing.

turnkey4099 said:
But then the wedges, sledge and mauls are not hardened steel and are designed to be used that way.

Harry K
 

Latest posts

Back
Top