Edison Motors announces their pickup truck kit

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This is off topic but we had heavy equipment here shipped in brand new with bad load sensors that were $1500. They shut the machine off and then chained it down in the container / drop deck. When restarting the machine the parameters saved threw it into the negative. We learned to chain down while running and then shut down so the parameters were saved as it sat. Inside the container was a little difficult to work to bypass hydraulics.
 
What you will find is they will have load sensors and traction sensors that will go out of calibration rendering the vehicle useless with out a factory tech and satellite programming

Eh, they're just ABS sensors, which have proven themselves to be reliable, provided the wiring doesn't get destroyed by a rock or stick. Still need a 'fully locked, no computer' setting that bypasses all of that.

This basic premise is also why Tesla isn't for me, and why I absolutely love the right to repair mentality of Edison motors. Using common off the shelf parts that are inexpensive and user serviceable. No spending $2000 to haul your tractor to a dealer so they can change wiper blades and update the computer.
 
Wonder if they are going to catch any grief for using an off road engine on road?
It will depend entirely on how popular they get!
If just a few take advantage of the conversion, then probably not.
But let it catch on and be popular and the governazi's will absolutely be screwing around trying to get their greedy ass hands into it some way!!!


Mike
 
I have yet to see rust on a vehicle make it unsafe to be driven. In 2008 or 2009 I bought a Dodge Caravan from the GSA auction. It came from salty Chicago. It only had 60,000 on it but the front of the hood was quite rusty from the daily bumper to bumper driving there. I put another 100,000 miles on it and believe it or not that darn rust never posed a single safety concern.
The unibody on my ‘99 Grand Caravan is so rusted you can literally grab chunks and pull them off. The floor mats and brake lines are holding the bottom of that thing together. Although the rust hasn’t led to a safety issue it definitely compromises things and one day you’ll hit the brakes and the rear end will pass you lol

I am truly shocked that MN doesn’t have inspections of any kind seeing as it’s been a blue state here for waaaaaay too long. 75% of the vehicles would be parked immediately if rust was an issue that would make things unsafe on an inspection.
 
I had a pattern made up for those vans and used to weld 1/8" plate on top of the strut towers. At the time the bottoms of the hinge used to rub and the hood would sit just a tiny bit proud. Nobody was offering aftermarket parts and the internet was in it's infancy. I kept busy welding corners of hoods as well. You could buy a hood for $150 but I didn't have to blend into the fenders if I welded them.
 
I had a pattern made up for those vans and used to weld 1/8" plate on top of the strut towers. At the time the bottoms of the hinge used to rub and the hood would sit just a tiny bit proud. Nobody was offering aftermarket parts and the internet was in its infancy. I kept busy welding corners of hoods as well. You could buy a hood for $150 but I didn't have to blend into the fenders if I welded them.
I did that years ago when the passenger side pushed through the hood lol. Now that I think about it ….. I think the rear passenger side may have a piece of plywood between something rusty and something less rusty. If I remember correctly it was marine grade so it should outlast the van ….. I should check that tomorrow 😂
 
I did that years ago when the passenger side pushed through the hood lol. Now that I think about it ….. I think the rear passenger side may have a piece of plywood between something rusty and something less rusty. If I remember correctly it was marine grade so it should outlast the van ….. I should check that tomorrow 😂
Marine grade doesn't change the rot resistance of the wood. It only indicates the adhesive so you should seal it with some of that adhesive backed tin foil for ductwork.
 
Marine grade doesn't change the rot resistance of the wood. It only indicates the adhesive so you should seal it with some of that adhesive backed tin foil for ductwork.
It was between an OSB and a marine grade scrap so I went marine grade. I gotta look what it’s holding up now. I need to know !! That was well before the Chinese bat flu and at least 20k miles ago. Whatever issue it solved hasn’t come back so I’m sure it’s still good.

I will plywood and #9 wire my personal vehicles together but the semis and anything commercial/farm gets a formal DOT inspection with a blank check sent along to fix what’s needed. Farm stuff has been exempt from DOT inspections in MN for a while now. Not sure why they stopped requiring them but they don’t anymore.
 
You guys realize rocker panels, both inner and outer are a structural part of a unit frame vehicle, right? Any rust, especially holes is the equivalent to rust holes in a full frame vehicle.
In Ontario, under the MTO (your DOT) there are specific provisions to where you can and cannot weld. Somebody can chime in and debate this but the last I read when they revised the laws would prohibit anybody from owning a classic car, hand built car or anything that was T boned.
You cannot weld within 2" of a seat brace or pinch weld.
A mechanic can not poke or prod through Bondo, duct tape, mono foam to test integrity.

If a person was to weld a rocker panel on and make it look nice, the torque boxes in the A, B & C pillers are already compromised HOWEVER, I can totally certify the fiberglass floor pans in a Ferrarri.
 
I should also add that the type of welding used "can" fail inspection as well. They are trying to outlaw MIG, obviously pop rivets are out of the question, brazing is totally out, soft and hard, and then we have the guys that like to use panel bond structural adhesive (epoxy) which is NOT to be used for rockers and then oil it which renders it useless when it melts away.
 
I would absolutely be the last bidder on something like that if it and I were at the same auction ……. Cab looks surprisingly good !!
I wonder how it got the dent in the door with those mirrors on it!!! Love West Coast mirrors. So sexy!!!
 
I would absolutely be the last bidder on something like that if it and I were at the same auction ……. Cab looks surprisingly good !!
I am thinking it was a salt spreading truck. You are 100% spot on when it comes to the cab
 
I wonder how it got the dent in the door with those mirrors on it!!! Love West Coast mirrors. So sexy!!!
This is similar to Dad's 1968 F-100. The difference was Dad had the west coast mirrors. The truck is long gone but the mirrors are still hanging in the shed...............by the way she passed every 6 month inspection.

1702607982099.jpeg
 
In Ontario, under the MTO (your DOT) there are specific provisions to where you can and cannot weld. Somebody can chime in and debate this but the last I read when they revised the laws would prohibit anybody from owning a classic car, hand built car or anything that was T boned.
You cannot weld within 2" of a seat brace or pinch weld.
A mechanic can not poke or prod through Bondo, duct tape, mono foam to test integrity.

If a person was to weld a rocker panel on and make it look nice, the torque boxes in the A, B & C pillers are already compromised HOWEVER, I can totally certify the fiberglass floor pans in a Ferrarri.
Seems you guys a a good bit more strick then we are. You can have whatever repaired, supposed to be as strong as oe, or greater. Thats mostly left to the body shop to figure out. As far as inspections go, no foam, foil tape or other cosmetic fixes are allowed on a structural part of the vehicle. The bulletin spelled out structural vs non structural to a pretty fine point.
As far as restorations,.so long as it's got a title, can be registered and go through an annual inspection it can be driven on the road. Kit cars/ vehicle with certificate of origin go through an enhanced inspection, then a title is issued. It's mostly a painless process. Safty inspection, list of what was done, few pictures and some mind numbing paperwork. Off to dot and you get a title in the mail a little while later.
 
You can have whatever repaired, supposed to be as strong as oe, or greater.
It's all in the eyes of the inspector. We are supposed to make sure it is safe but can't poke it. I don't really get too fussy but you see trucks come in that have frames cut to lower them and such. Our 1 hour pay doesn't really give much time to inspect everything. Especially when you have to beat the brake drums off or take rear rotors off to check e brake linings.
 

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