Falling pics 11/25/09

[Skeans]

Looks good, never used a solid nose bar they aren't too common around here.


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[treeslayer2003]

Go ahead, laugh all you want. And yes, the sprocket nose actually handled the abuse.
View attachment 402563

not laffin, it worked. one ? why the block on top the jack? ran out of jack?

 

[Skeans]

Doesn't look like he has plates on the head of the jack.


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[KiwiBro]

not laffin, it worked. one ? why the block on top the jack? ran out of jack?

First time ever used a jack so inexperience, ignorance, and being worried about it jacking beyond an acceptable angle for the piston to handle. Had quite a lean and wasn't sure if would work at all. also, not my jack so couldn't risk wrecking it.

Really need to buy one and pin a solid plate to it, so I can experiment and learn some more. It's on the to-do list.

 

[hammerlogging]

KB- if the face would have been deep enough still you would have had a far easier time with the block face if you could have made your vertical bore from just one side, flowed by your lower then upper horizontal cuts. just takes practice.

 

[treeslayer2003]

Joe do you mean his face needs to be deeper? looks pretty deep to me. i to have some trouble lineing up the block on sticks wider than bar length........i don't think my 660 wants more than 36.
also, would y'all recomend a snipe there? i was thinkin it should have one but could be wrong......

 

[Skeans]

A little deeper on the face and if you look the left and right sides aren't completely even on the face, and he could of brought the back cut up some more.


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[treeslayer2003]

i see that on the right, he missed just a little. i to agree in the order of verticle cut first then bottom and top.
lol, i thought y'all would get on me for deep faces.

 

[KiwiBro]

KB- if the face would have been deep enough still you would have had a far easier time with the block face if you could have made your vertical bore from just one side, flowed by your lower then upper horizontal cuts. just takes practice.

Thanks. Even for pine and being solid, I thought I was taking a bit of a risk (ignorance again coming to the fore) going as deep as I did with that face.

 

[hammerlogging]

no, I meant that if he didn't go quite so deep he may have been able to do all his cutting from one side, cause the bar could reach all the way through, which would help to keep it cleaner.
Looks to me like his face ended up over 50% in, so deeper, I don't think so. I wouldn't want it deeper than necessary for a back leaner anyhow, a side lean will need a deeper face than a back leaner. Its depth was probably from all the excessive whittling, before it was finally all cleaned up. For sure I would want to stay on the near side of 50% and probably more in the 40% zone.
Yes, the block works better when all the cuts line up.
I have always assumed a snipe was a given, so I don't know.
KB, thanks for the picture, good try, nice bar. Big stump too.
looks limby.

 

[treeslayer2003]

thats what i thought Joe, just was a lil confused. yeah yer right on shallow for back lean.
your gettin there kiwi, im only a few years on ya for this kind of face.

 

[KiwiBro]

Started the face on right side then realised I needed to clear a water line I didn't see earlier so changed things a little. In that situation, would you guys just block out that undercut or leave it there?

That said, I'm a serial, recidivist under-cutter anyway, who cringes at some of the pics of his stumps.

 

[hammerlogging]

Its not a solid nose bar.

The stump could have a snipe out of site.

 

[treeslayer2003]

kiwi, id say do what ya need to make sure your cuts meet. an over kerf is disaster on some wood.

i have a ?, is it normal to have to trim the hinge off the log from a block face? most times i have a bar width strip on the log. it broke clean but the strip on the log instead of the stump.

 

[KiwiBro]

no, I meant that if he didn't go quite so deep he may have been able to do all his cutting from one side, cause the bar could reach all the way through, which would help to keep it cleaner.
Looks to me like his face ended up over 50% in, so deeper, I don't think so. I wouldn't want it deeper than necessary for a back leaner anyhow, a side lean will need a deeper face than a back leaner. Its depth was probably from all the excessive whittling, before it was finally all cleaned up. For sure I would want to stay on the near side of 50% and probably more in the 40% zone.
Yes, the block works better when all the cuts line up.
I have always assumed a snipe was a given, so I don't know.
KB, thanks for the picture, good try, nice bar. Big stump too.
looks limby.

Phew, you had me worried. I was trying to think how to go deeper on a leaner without bad things happening. It is pine so that helps as it is a good hanger-on-er but still, I don't have the experience to be juggling jack forces in a back cut with finishing up a deeper block face.

Thanks heap guys for the learning opportunities. I just got to be careful not to overload my nogg'n or try too many things in one go or I get confused.

 

[HuskStihl]

Deep faces on back leaners is why I can now comfortably repair 4 different types of fences

 

[KiwiBro]

is it normal to have to trim the hinge off the log from a block face?

I don't know sorry, but if it was a lumber tree I'd be hiding the mess by at least trimming it off.

 

[treeslayer2003]

you can see the strip i trimmed off. no fiber pull in the log.

 

[treeslayer2003]

another example of the same thing

 

[HuskStihl]

I don't know how you'd jack over a big back-leaning pine without a lot of hinge? Stump pull better than butt pull?